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johnnyboy

To oil or not to oil....that is the question!

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I think the point DJ was trying to make was that KK and POSK are 2 different beasts, and should be treated as such with regard to maintenance necessary.

You absolutely NEED to oil your POSK to prevent rust. Not true on KK which is stainless, and what DJ was trying to say this section (KK411) is about.

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Although it may not be necessary on stainless, I routinely lubricate almost every metal moving part of everything I own with anti-seize compound. Unless there is some good reason not to. Also any place there is metal to metal contact of any parts that may need disassembly one day. Anti-seize is available at auto part stores, bearing supply houses, some hardware stores and other places, it will be with the greases and lubricants. It is , I believe, grease with graphite powder added. An example: the spare tire for my boat is secured on a threaded rod and held in place with a large wing nut. I keep that assembly well greased with anti-seize, so in the rare event I need the spare, the wing nut won't be rusted on. You can think of a million applications for this. I use it on all the lug nuts on all my vehicles. You are actually not supposed to, the torque values for lug nuts are specified dry, but I do it anyway for ease of disassembly. You may not need it on your Komodo damper threads, but when I get mine, I will be using it. I'll probably wipe it off with all the carbon and crud twice a year and re-smear it. People with POSK should have been using it from day one and they NEVER would have had rusted, frozen damper threads! If you ever tried to take something apart and found the pieces rusted together, that's where anti-seize should have been used.

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Agreed if I were recommending for a K. ;) Except I used the copper based (higher temp) anti-seize and my old K top never locked up. Though some people will be scared off if they actually read the MSDS for Loctite anti-seize. They also make a food grade anti-seize but it is for lower temps. Personally, I never thought it was an issue using the copper based over food as it does not drip (provided you don't use too much).

I also use regular anti-seize on brake caliper slides and bolts, lug nuts and everything else, except my KK. :wink:

-=Jasen=-

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I too recommend mineral oil. Doesn't turn rancid, use it on all my knives ,cutting blocks, and various equipment. Don't think you will have a problem with the threads getting stuck on the damper top, those threads are spacious! I remember my Dad using oil in his 3-way knife sharpener, it was looking pretty dark so I thought I would clean it and put in new oil. "Dad where's the oil for the stones?" He replied" Oh I haven't used mineral oil for years, just use that 10w30" Thought I was gonna die of laughter! Dad could pinch a penny until it squeaked!

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