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Knives

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We decided to try a MAC knife so I got the 8" MTH-80 chef's knife to try out. It's beautiful, feels great and cuts like a dream. If you can spend over three grand on a KK, $120. for an awesome chef's knife isn't bad. Should last for a lifetime with proper care, just like the KK. I think I'll try a Global slicing knife next to see how they are, probably the G-3. For slicing briskets, roasts and so on. What are your favorite knives?

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Fujitake Brand VG-10 Meat Chef Knife

Hands down these are my favorite knives, for anything except cutting through bone, which would wreck their thinner blade: Fujitake Brand VG-10 Meat Chef Knife

I bring the largest to my Thai cooking classes, and use it for everything from trimming garlic on up. People try it, and a third of my last class showed up with their own Fujitake knives.

I have also three sizes in two kitchens, but what does Anthony Bourdain say about his restaurant experience? They can't steal the knife in your hand. The largest is my favorite. The smallest is Laurie's favorite. Get the middle one.

To sharpen on a waterstone, you've got the angle right when it sounds right, like playing a musical instrument. I'm reminded of Japanese woodworkers making rice glue: The glue works best if you've made delicious rice.

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Re: Knives

We decided to try a MAC knife so I got the 8" MTH-80 chef's knife to try out. It's beautiful' date=' feels great and cuts like a dream. If you can spend over three grand on a KK, $120. for an awesome chef's knife isn't bad.[/quote']

Why spend $120 when you can spend "a little" more and get something even more fitting of the KK: http://www.thebestthings.com/knives/tanaka.htm. I love the look of Damascus steel. The Best Things has a ton of options for knives at http://www.thebestthings.com/knives/knives.htm and if I had my druthers I would buy one of each. If you enjoy good steak be sure to check out http://www.thebestthings.com/knives/chambriard_steakknives.htm. Good luck holding onto your wallet ;-)

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Re: Knives

spend "a little" more

Thanks for making Fujitake knives look like the "value" choice!

Beautiful, and my Fujitake knives don't hold their edge forever. Do these really hold their edge longer, as claimed? Once you've got a decent metal sandwich, I'm not sure.

I prefer austere, straight-up design. It actually took me a while to get over the idea that tiled cookers look like French Poodles. I like using a knife that an uninformed eye might not even notice.

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Norton Waterstone 1000/4000

Norton 24450 Japanese-Style Combination Waterstone 1000/4000 Grit, 8-Inch by 3-Inch by 1-Inch

For any of these Japanese knives, there will come a point where a steel, ceramic or otherwise, is not enough to keep it sharp, and you'll want to sharpen it. Western methods won't work as well as a waterstone.

I have perhaps half a dozen waterstones, but the Norton 1000/4000 combination stone is my favorite. At 3" wide, it is easier to use than my first 2" stone. Being synthetic, it is harder to slip and dig into the 4000 grit side. For home use, one won't live long enough to use up either 1/2" side.

For a kitchen knife, there really is no point to going past a 4000 stone; some feel 3000 is enough. The higher grits are intended for woodworking; the kitchen is considered a less demanding application. As I mentioned earlier, going even to 4000 is a compromise, giving one the satisfaction one's knife is "sharp" (like "smart", a single-dimensional word trying to describe a much more nuanced reality) at the expense of slicing prowess best found by stopping at a lower grit.

Eventually, any stone gunks up and goes out of flat. Fixing this is the main source of actual wear on a stone. The fancy way to fix this is to rub against a diamond stone. The easy, inexpensive way is to tape some fine wet/dry sandpaper against a flat surface, and rub.

I don't bother with angle guides. Work carefully, and it sounds right when you've got the angle right.

I like to prop my stone up on a Thai mortar in the sink, with water dribbling over it from the faucet. Not exactly traditional, but one can improvise here.

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Re: Knives

Beautiful' date=' and my Fujitake knives don't hold their edge forever. Do these really hold their edge longer, as claimed? Once you've got a decent metal sandwich, I'm not sure.[/quote']

No idea how long they would maintain their edge. I will say that I have been buying antique woodworking tools from The Best Things for a while and the gentleman who runs the company never makes outlandish claims or overrates the condition of tools as some dealers are wont to do. So, if he claims the blade holds its edge longer then I believe him. Powdered steel is a pretty recent advance but there are so many types of steels out there that it is hard to keep track of what's what.

I prefer austere' date=' straight-up design. It actually took me a while to get over the idea that tiled cookers look like French Poodles. I like using a knife that an uninformed eye might not even notice.[/quote']

I also tend toward simple and elegant designs as well (the Yoshikane knives for example). I love the look of traditional Japanese knives (especially Damascus blades) but I have never been a fan of them with western style riveted handles. Although in the case of the Tanaka knives, they are so beautiful and the handles are sculpted just enough from the standard western form that I am willing to go along.

I like to prop my stone up on a Thai mortar in the sink' date=' with water dribbling over it from the faucet. Not exactly traditional, but one can improvise here.[/quote']

If you sharpen at the sink you might want to check out this sink bridge. It seems like a more stable platform.

I have a set of Norton waterstones as well but never use them because of the hassle involved with having to remember to soak them. For that reason I am using ceramic stones. The place that sells the sink bridge sells a few interesting options but I settled on Shapton GlassStones. You just splash a little water on them and sharpen away. The entire Shapton system is pretty expensive but you don't really need anything but the stones and maybe a holder. They also tend to stay flat longer than regular waterstones which is nice.

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Re: Norton Waterstone 1000/4000

Damn, now there is another brand of knives I want!!! Love those Damascus clad, SG2 core knives with ironwood handles.

Norton 24450 Japanese-Style Combination Waterstone 1000/4000 Grit' date=' 8-Inch by 3-Inch by 1-Inch[/url']

For any of these Japanese knives, there will come a point where a steel, ceramic or otherwise, is not enough to keep it sharp, and you'll want to sharpen it. Western methods won't work as well as a waterstone.

I have perhaps half a dozen waterstones, but the Norton 1000/4000 combination stone is my favorite. At 3" wide, it is easier to use than my first 2" stone. Being synthetic, it is harder to slip and dig into the 4000 grit side. For home use, one won't live long enough to use up either 1/2" side.

For a kitchen knife, there really is no point to going past a 4000 stone; some feel 3000 is enough. The higher grits are intended for woodworking; the kitchen is considered a less demanding application. As I mentioned earlier, going even to 4000 is a compromise, giving one the satisfaction one's knife is "sharp" (like "smart", a single-dimensional word trying to describe a much more nuanced reality) at the expense of slicing prowess best found by stopping at a lower grit.

Eventually, any stone gunks up and goes out of flat. Fixing this is the main source of actual wear on a stone. The fancy way to fix this is to rub against a diamond stone. The easy, inexpensive way is to tape some fine wet/dry sandpaper against a flat surface, and rub.

I don't bother with angle guides. Work carefully, and it sounds right when you've got the angle right.

I like to prop my stone up on a Thai mortar in the sink, with water dribbling over it from the faucet. Not exactly traditional, but one can improvise here.

I cannot answer the edge question about these knives in particular, but I have SG2 powder steel core knives now and they are awesome!! Unless they come out with a newer metal that is better, this will be my blade core choice. Sharpening is reduced greatly (maybe yearly), though I do a quick ceramic realignment before most uses. And even with the hardness level this metal achieves, my EdgePro wet stone sharpening system cuts without too much effort (I go to 6000 grit). Only downside to blades made with this steel is they are not meant for hard chopping as the very fine, brittle edge will chip. Simply keep another blade on hand for chopping.

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Global

I got a Global G-3 carving knife yesterday, haven't tried it yet. But it feels great in the hand, very lightweight and balanced. My other knives are slippery when wet or greasy so I don't suppose this will be any different. You can just wrap a couple rubber bands around the handle for wet or greasy cutting. It's beautiful to look at, too. I just held it and stared at it for a while.

http://www.global-knife.com/products/im ... ge_G-3.jpg

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While I love the look and design of Damascus blades, at work and at home my favorite knife of choice is the Forschner chef's knife. If I could keep a set of Damascus knives away from the kids, and my Wife, I would buy a set in a heart beat. Until then, Forschner it is, and I sharpen them on my Tormek water stone, 800/1200 grit... (or something like that). I also use a traditional steel as well as a diamond coated steel to quickly dress the knives. As Syz. does, I stopped using the edge guides and just go by hand, and when you "steel" the knives properly it sounds like a bird chirping, and you can shave with them.

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Forschner Knives---- Inexpensive -- good washable handle-- easy to sharpen and raise edge with a steel-- Can buy 5 for the price of one of the expensive ones and cuts just as well and smothly.. Will find everywhere in commercial kitchens.. Light weight is good for a lot of work, easier on the hands.. IMHO :-)

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And I use them every day at work. With the help of my Tormek I can keep them in tip top condition. I have a few knives I started with back in 1985, they have been relegated to cutting open boxes now, what were once 6" boning knives are now 3.5" box cutters and sausage knives. At the time the boning knives were around $5.95, now over $14.00. I loved the rosewood handles, tough to find them now, except on the larger knives.

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FWIW

Just saw this on the SlickDeals website:

http://www.amazon.com/Knives-Cooks-Love-Selection-Techniques/dp/0740770020/ref=sr_1_1?t=slickdeals&tag=slickdeals&ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1297297761&sr=8-1

$25 book on knives that is currently 1.64 at Amazon. Free shipping with a prime membership which I imagine most of you have. Seems like to good a deal not to pass along. I've ordered mine. May be a very short lived deal.

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Re: Knives

I bought an Apex Pro a few years ago and I am simply amazed at the results. Over the decades, I became accustomed to varying degrees of sharpness correlative with heavy use. But after just one sharpening with the Apex, I still have not had to re-sharpen any of my knifes (really inexplicable). All I do is straighten the edge with a "sharpening" steel after each use; typically three light strokes per side and I am done!

Note: My most often used knives are just run-of-the-mill grade Henckel Professional S and Four Star cutlery.

To be perfectly honest, I am a little disappointed because I bought the system with the intention of enjoying the catharsis of periodic sharpening and knife maintenance. But alas, I have been denied the pleasure.

...and no, you cannot send me your knifes to help fill the void. :)

mainpro.jpg

http://www.edgeproinc.com/

The Apex system requires a few strokes with two-or-three varying grit stones with each knife taking about two minutes from start-to-finish.

P.S. The previously mentioned Tormek system looks mighty impressive.

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