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Troble

New Owner Questions

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Hi all 

l’ve finished my first cook and have been researching quite a lot using the search function but I have a couple of newbie questions I’d love some help with 

1. What’s the best blower to fee for lighting?

2. What’s the best way to clean up the ash?

3. When doing low & slow like a brisket or pork shoulder do you use a foil tray to collect juices?

4. Best cleaner for grill grates? 
 

thanks in advance 

Edited by Troble
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Here is what I do.

1. I like the Milwaukee - M18 Compact Blower.

2. I scoop from the top into metal container. No need to get every last bit of ash out in my opinion.

3. I like to use a metal tray, like the SS tray that comes with the KK.

4. I use the Kurly Kate rub the grates when done cleaning to make sure there are no little pieces of metal that will get into my good.

 

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2. I also scoop from the top, using an Oxo mini brush and dustpan.

4. I use a Powdered Brewer's Wash soak overnight before using the Kurly Kate (per MacKenzie) if the grates are "well used," which mine generally are. 

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1) I use the FiAir blower - it's battery powered. Does a good job. Only complaint - the batteries can get dislodged with normal handling and it won't run until you take the back cover off and readjust them. Not a biggie problem, but when you're trying to get the grill up and going, it can be a tad frustrating (full disclosure - I have practically zero patience!) 

https://smile.amazon.com/FiAir-Charcoal-Tailgating-Campfires-Fireplaces/dp/B00D5FS7HA

2) Same as MacKenzie - scoop from the top. 

3) Nope, just use aluminum foil on the lower grate to stop the drippings from hitting the coals and to provide indirect heating to the main grate. If I think that there's going to be a lot of drippings, I use the drip pan that came with the KK. 

4) Everyday cleaning of the grates - I use a Grill Floss. A 3/8" open-end wrench works almost as well and is cheaper. 

https://smile.amazon.com/GrillFloss-Ultimate-Grill-Cleaning-Tool/dp/B000PAV28E

For the rotisserie baskets and forks, I soak in PBW (Powdered Brewers Wash), which can be found at any homebrewing supply store/online. It's not cheap, but you only use a little at a time; it works great and makes cleanup a snap.

A word of caution - stay away from cheapo brass bristle brushes and similar things. If you use the Kurly Kate recommended by MacKenzie, follow her "good practice" and make sure that you wipe down the grates thoroughly with a wet rag/paper towel afterwards. Folks end up in the Emergency Room from ingesting metal bits that find their way into the food. This is not an internet urban legend - here's a link to the CDC's website.

https://www.cdc.gov/mmwr/preview/mmwrhtml/mm6126a4.htm

https://globalnews.ca/news/4166966/bbq-brushes-metal-bristle-safety-standard/

 

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1. use the Mapp torch, I do remember "once" I pulled out the compressor because I was on a time table, that 90 lbs of pressure fired up the basket pretty quickly, I don't suggest this procedure for alot of reasons but it got me around the corner that day.  2. I use a shopvac, does a great job everywhere, even around the gasket.  3. Haven't yet, just let it drip down and dry and toss it out. The only time I'd put a tin down lower might be for veggies and that juice dropping in could be saved.  4. 3/8 in open wrench for the tuff stuff, next a brass wire brush and the wipe off with your choice of an old towel or paper towel. The PBW does a great job but a high temp burn after a pizza will burn give you some nice smooth grates.  I see everyone does it a little differently, do what's best and most comfortable for you

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Most of us have found that we don't need any extra "help" keeping the humidity up in the KK, except maybe bread baking where you want a big steam blast. Try a few cooks without the extra water bath and see for yourself. Less work - same (or better) results. 

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I have heard before that many members do not feel that they need to keep the humidity up, and certainly the big professional cookers in places around Austin, who make some really magnificent products, don't have pans of water in their 1,000 gallon propane tank smokers. It may not be necessary, strictly speaking. But we live in Denver, and average humidity levels are extremely low here: if it goes up as high as 40 percent, we look at the sky and wonder when the rain will start. So I will do everything I can to ensure that my ribs are done tender and juicy, including spraying them with water once or twice an hour and wrapping them for hour 3 of their 4 hour cook (the old 2/1/1 method for babyback ribs).

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It's not so much about the relative humidity of the outside air, it's about the efficiency of the KK. Once heat soaked, the KK doesn't need much incoming combustion air to maintain temperatures, so the food doesn't dry out like in more conventional grills/smokers. Less air in = less moisture out. But, if you like the way your food is turning out, that's all that really matters. Just passing along some KK knowledge. 

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No, that's good insight. It somehow also explains why I am not getting as much smoke flavor as I think I ought to for cooks like the babyback ribs. Less air coming through means less turbulence passing over the surface the meat, ergo, less penetration of the smoke. Hmmmm....maybe I will start experimenting with the type of wood or the blends of woods that I might be using. Typically, I am doing pork ribs, so I use a fruitwood, mostly apple. Sometimes cherry, sometimes both. Maybe I will start moving more towards oak and pecan, which are both, to my taste, heavier smoke tasting. Maybe hickory?

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19 hours ago, BARDSLJR said:

No, that's good insight. It somehow also explains why I am not getting as much smoke flavor as I think I ought to for cooks like the babyback ribs. Less air coming through means less turbulence passing over the surface the meat, ergo, less penetration of the smoke. Hmmmm....maybe I will start experimenting with the type of wood or the blends of woods that I might be using. Typically, I am doing pork ribs, so I use a fruitwood, mostly apple. Sometimes cherry, sometimes both. Maybe I will start moving more towards oak and pecan, which are both, to my taste, heavier smoke tasting. Maybe hickory?

Actually with less airflow, the smoke has more retention time and more opportunity to condense on your meat. For more smoke flavor, I would suggest putting your ribs into the grill as cold as possible.. even throw them in a box freezer for 20 minutes before throwing them on the grill. This will increase the volume of smoke/condensation.. I'd also use the foil pouch, a drilled cast iron pot or my cold smoker to clean up the smoke too.. 

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That's a great insight, and makes sense, since we know the meat stops absorbing smoke when the surface temperature reaches 135*.....and wife says maybe if I went with a lighter application of rub (usually Dizzy Pig's Dizzy Dust, which I apply liberally and let it soak in and dry-marinate the meat) maybe they meat would absorb more of the smoke. So we'll be trying that next time, too.

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Big Dizzy Dust fan here. I generally smear ribs with CYM and hit it pretty good with Dizzy Dust (or others). Don't think that's your issue. I like a combo of hickory and a fruit wood for pork - usually apple, cherry or peach. Usually 2 parts fruit wood to 1 part hickory in the cast iron smoker pot. Your spritzing technique in on point, just be careful to not overdo it and wash off that lovely bark that we all work so hard to develop. 

Don't know if you're a fan of Meathead over at Amazing Ribs. Here's his thoughts on smoke ring development.

https://amazingribs.com/more-technique-and-science/more-cooking-science/mythbusting-smoke-ring-no-smoke-necessary

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I usually use apple, or a combination of fruitwoods- apple, cherry and pecan being the most frequent.  And yes, I am a big fan of Meathead and have read his book cover to cover. I love the fact that he uses real science to demystify, and demythologize, so much of what passes for accepted fact in the food and barbecue world.

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