Emmanuil

Thanks! Gonna get me some! Below is what apparently it looked like in 2005 but that's a long time ago (as opposed to above link 2021). http://www.nakedwhiz.com/lumpdatabase/lumpbag54.htm

Found a newer review at nakedwhiz and the pictures are exactly like yours! Seems like their newer stuff looks different. http://www.nakedwhiz.com/lumpdatabase/lumpbag147.htm

Tried to look it up and pictures of it look like regular lump, not the big round logs I see in your picture...

Will try to get some. How does it compare to Fogo? I buy charcoal that looks like that for my Konro tabletop grill (yakitori and Korean bbq) and it is WAY harder to light but burns 3 to 5x longer than regular charcoal. When you hit two pieces together, it sounds like glass. Unfortunately, very expensive.

This was useful feedback from everyone. Thank you! I haven't done that many cooks so I'll keep an eye out. I'm guessing it was something I did that caused it. BTW @C6Bill, where did you get that charcoal? Looks like binchotan type charcoal

Yes, thats correct, the rack of ribs in center of grill over the center of the foil cooked substantially slower. I had about an inch or two of space between the racks. I was just a bit surprised, expecting the temps to be more evenly distributed on low and slow cook but I think there was more air flow (convection) with the two outside racks. Just wondering how people manage this besides rotating the meat location.

Recent 32 KK owner with second cook here. Did 3 pork rib racks on main grate with foil deflector on lower grate 250-285deg. I don't think the foil deflector was too large and most of the burning lumb was under foil. Realized toward the end that there was a cold spot in middle of deflector area. KK was heat soaked. Any advice besides rotating ribs? I was thinking using for a heat deflector a grate designed to let convected heat through but not radiant heat as in the attached pic. I'm guessing I can find one but any tips are welcome. Seems people do t have issues with using foil so maybe I was doing something wrong.

Thanks for everyone's input!

Thank you, I read the manual and watched all the videos I could find, but it didn't address my specific concerns. I'm probably overthrowing it. My concern was that majority of the visible cracks that formed became invisible by the time the KK cooled. Seems like it would have worked better to smear grout into them BEFORE they closed. I only know they were there because I marked them. My second question is regarding the white residue that formed along some of these vents. Do I need to clean it off BEFORE applying grout or is it ok to cmsmear over it?. Thanks.

Thank you!! Just woke up and most of the smaller cracks I marked last night with postits disappeared. I can tell that some ofnthem were there by trace white residue. I spackled them. Should I be trying to remove all the white residue before spackling with grout? Also, if i see an area with trace white residue that I didn't mark yesterday as a crack and dontbsee one now, it doesn't seem like there is much benefit putting a thin coat paint of grout on top. From my experience to seal something you need material in the crack not paint a thin layer on top. As there are no details about these issues in instructions provided by Dennis, I'm guessing it doesn't matter. But I appreciate any additional feedback just in.

Hello! New KK 32" owner here. Been curing the KK all day and running out of light and time. Ran the KK at 500 to 550 deg for about 4 to 5 hrs now and probably done. I understand that I have to press several loose tiles in while still hot but can I apply grout the next day to all the small cracks? Will condensation, etc become a problem with the cracks? I'm in Los Angeles but it gets cool right now over night. I have all the cracks marked with small postits but id rather not do it in poor light. Thank you