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  3. Sent Doug from the Naked whiz some of this latest container's coco char to test and I'm thrilled that it was the all time best in two categories.. "The amount of powder/dust/granules in the bottom of the bag was stunningly small, a mere 2 grams for the smaller USPS box and 18 grams for the larger box sent by UPS. (A new world record in both cases.)" "the volume of ash produced was the lowest we have ever tested, lump or coconut!" http://www.nakedwhiz.com/lumpdatabase/lumpbag152.htm
  4. One of my concerns with buying a canner is not disliking it enough to deal with storing it between rare uses. Yes, not disliking it - I'm ok with being neutral on the canning process, but if I actively dislike it I just won't use it. I've not found one to borrow and try. So... I think I have a solution. I've had an Instant Pot for a long time and use it a lot for dried beans and occasionally for soups and stews. The newest model Instant Pot has a pressure canning function. It doesn't meet the USDA criteria for a "safe" pressure canner due to size (will only hold 4 pint jars and USDA criteria specifies 4 quarts) and it doesn't have the required weighted pressure valve to give a visual indicator that it's at pressure but it has been tested by an independent agency that verified that it does hit and maintain the appropriate temps. I think it'll hold 6 to 8 pint-sized retort bags; that should be sufficient for me to play with as well as what I think will be my normal canning batch size. If I get the new model IP, I can stash my current one back for the rare occasion that I need 2 or need to take beans somewhere for a pot luck; its smaller than a 20+ quart canner so storing it isn't as onerous as a big canner. Unfortunately, the new IP is US $200 (or more) everywhere and I have some pending expenses that are making me hold off. I wish I'd found this before Amazon Prime Day! Maybe I can hold off until Black Friday... And maybe they'll introduce an 8 qt version before then. If I like canning well enough to want to do bigger batches, I'll invest in a "real" canner later.
  5. Give a person a thermometer, they know the temperature. Give a person 2 thermometers, they never know the temperature..
  6. Hi, I have not had any issues with the heat and La Chamba cookware. When I am doing high heat cooks I put the cookware into the KK or WFO from the beginning so that it warms up as the fire builds. I work on the basis that sudden temp change is the issue and that the cookware can withstand high temps as long as the approach is gradual.
  7. Have you all had any issues with it and heat? I bought a cazuela (not a La Chamba) from another company. Just the procedure to cure in the oven at 300f caused the glaze to crack (two different ones).
  8. Last week
  9. Very cool thread. I have tried bread before at high temp like 500-550f but it always burns to black. Charcoal on the bottom. I didn't understand then, but I think I do now. Back then, I tried to preheat the base ceramics just enough so that the bottom and top would be finished at the same time. It rarely worked, and was often disastrous. It seems this entire thread is about how to get extreme heat from the bottom of the loaf to the top, and that large amounts of moisture in a small amount of time (high RH, more even temperature throughout the entire kamado) is the key to even cooking and crust generation. Experts, is this a fair synopsis? What am I missing? About to have a other go round next week.
  10. @tony bYou mentioned in another thread that "a 50F difference between dome and main grate temperature is "normal" for a KK, especially early in the heatup process. With a long enough cook (hours) they will tend to equilibrate a bit closer, typically within 20-30F." This is true of many cookers, very easily explained and goes to the heart of the relationship between heat and moisture. Temperature is a fight between the firebox and the moisture. The Firebox will stay relatively stable on a komodo. Lets assume the energy input stays the exact same throughout the cook (No drippings damping it, no flue rate changes due to temperature changes, etc). Heat rises. Therefore the top of the Kamado is hotter than the bottom. After adding moisture (meat), the energy input remains the same but some of that energy will be used to evaporate water. This will lower the stable average temperature of the Komodo (.vs dry stable temperature) as some of the energy is used to evaporate water. This evaporated water will then immediately get to work circulating in the komodo and facilitating the transfer of heat in a more equal way. It will lower the Dome temperature and raise the grate temperature as well as the mid and lower sections of the heavy komodo. This will also lower the APPEARANCE of total energy in the Komodo if the user is only using the Dome temperature as a guide. The total energy stored in the komodo steel/ceramic will stay the same (relatively), but be more evenly distributed. It will also allow the Komodo to hold more heat energy as the moisture allows the bottom half of the komodo to hold more heat energy. As you have stated, as the cook goes on, the grill temp and dome temp converge. This is the work of moisture. The reverse is also true. As a piece of meat loses moisture and loses moisture at a slower rate, the temperature of the Kamado will rise. The two-fold reasons are the same but in reverse. As the relative humidity drops, heat rises without the counterbalance of being conveyed back down by hot wet air. As the moisture disappears, the firebox is no longer wasting energy supporting water evaporation, so there is excess energy again to raise the temperature and create a higher equilibrium. (I wonder if the "stable dry temp" before adding meat is the same as the stable dry temp after allowing a piece of meat to completely lose its moisture and the internal temperature to rise to stability with the grill???? 350F roast please, lol) As a thought experiment, carry this to the extreme and replace wet air with wet water. The top and bottom of the grill would share the exact same temperature, just as the temperature of bathwater will not vary by more than a degree or two in a bathtub. Anyway, one of the things I have started doing is adding a small dish of boiling water to my Kamado at startup, even if only a few ounces. This will allow the ceramic of my Kamado Joe to hold more energy and achieve wet stability faster. It also negates the temperature differencial between the dome and grate before the meat goes on the grill. No more guesswork. Pre-Add moisture, get more useful temperature information from the existing probes.
  11. I have a Fireboard Drive 2, and I have noticed the same thing. its usually because the cable feels like it clicked in, but it only went one notch, or 1.x notches, but not 2 notches. This can impede the voltage transfer that the Fireboard converts to temperature.
  12. It occured to me that I should not lead you too far astray @mstang1988. I like using La Chamba products in the wood fired oven but in the main I use cast iron cookware like Lodge - indestructible.
  13. Handsome color on the lamb only matched by the outstanding color of your gifted board. Everything about that board says slice me a generous piece, great handles, nice.
  14. @Tyrus, yes I did manage to rescue the lamb and in future I will look to either roll it or secure it better. I had planned to post nice pics of the lamb shoulders on the spit in the 32 but it was not to be. Less pretty are the pics that follow but I can confirm that the lamb was very tasty. Here are the two shoulders on the grate after I had rescued the one on the left from the fire. Top of the picture are the shanks - chef's treat. And here are the two shoulders nestled in the lovely chopping board that @RokDok and his wife gave me for my birthday.
  15. @mstang1988 I was led astray by others on this forum who bought La Chamba cookware. @Syzygies and @MacKenzie if I remember rightly. You know who you are! My turn to lead someone astray. I bought that dish from this company: https://www.mytoque.com/pages/chamba-cookware Here is the link to my post showing the items I bought:
  16. I hope you rescued the leg and saved the day. Try a bamboo skewer to stick through both meats to hold them together, at least that's what I do with reasonable success. Once the meat begins to tighten on the skewer they hold quite well.
  17. What material is this dish and who makes it if you don’t mind me asking? I have a brick wood fired oven that will be installed soon and I’m trying to decide what higher heat bake and roasting ware to get.
  18. Also (because I am such a huge fan of them) the link that @tekobo provided above has a GREAT write-up on my favourite line of canning jars: Weck. They are great for water bath AND pressure canning and I have WAY WAY too many of them. Here is the link: https://www.healthycanning.com/weck-jars/
  19. Thanks for linking the article. I know I've read the "You don't have to sterilize as a separate step anymore" a number of times but it is good to have a source readily available.
  20. I also have induction and what I am most likely going to do (when I get around to wanting to pressure can) is I will be buying an outdoor Campchef propane stove (probably the single burner model) and using that until we eventually remodel our kitchen. At that point my grand plan is to have our induction top but install a single gas burner just for canning/non-induction cookware. The outdoor campchef option apparently has its pitfalls too depending on who you ask. The Presto Pressure canners do not recommend ANY outdoor burner solution as the BTUs are far too high according to the company. I've read numerous people online have used them but it seems to be a 'the risk is on you' situation. The All-Americans aren't quite as specific in their warnings and from what I've read if you stick to an outdoor burner between 15,000-30,000 BTU you should be fine. As you also said there is a Presto Induction Capable Pressure canner (which I also have owned) but it only comes in the 23qt size. I personally own two All-American Pressure Canners but A: They are MUCH more expensive than Presto and B: They are SEVERELY backordered right now from the manufacturer (6-9 months+ depending on model) but they are to my understanding the Rolls-Royce of pressure canners. I luckily got mine earlier this year before they ran out for the year AND before the price went up. Until I can figure out if I want to do the Campchef route, I will be sticking to water bath canning.
  21. I live in San Jose, California (95119 zip code) and would like to get together a group of folks willing to purchase a full pallet of Coconut charcoal. A full pallet is 110 boxes, each box is marked as 20lbs but apparently the new formulation comes just a bit under 24lbs per box. A full pallet would probably come in at 2700lbs or so. I just confirmed with Dennis today (7 August 2022) that he has 10 tons ready to ship from Las Vegas. I don't have a commercial address to ship to so if anybody in the area does, we could lower shipping costs that way. I'll commit to 10 boxes, leaving 100 remaining. If you are interested, reply here with your count of boxes you can commit to and I'll DM you a link to a spreadsheet tracking everything. Each box will go for $46 + total shipping / 110 + tax (I think). I'm not sure what total shipping cost will be (and it will depend on whether we can find a commerical destination or not) but initial rough estimate of a full pallet from Las Vegas to San Jose with UPS Freight came in at $1500 -- though I wasn't totally sure on freight class so that might not be accurate. I can't imagine it would be less than $500 in shipping, so that should put the shipping in the range of $4.55/box to as high as $13.63/box. For comparison, Dennis ships an 11lb box via flat rate USPS for $23.30 for the charcoal and $15.50 for the shipping for a total of $38.80 for 11lbs. I'm hopeful we can keep the cost less than $60 per 24lb box but it could be as high as $65/box. I'm not in a huge rush on this since I still have 3 full boxes left, but I'm fine ordering as soon as we get commitment for 110 boxes. Sincerely, Luke PS: Here is the link to the product page: https://komodokamado.com/collections/kk-charcoal/products/extruded-coco-char-11-lb-single-box-with-grill-purchase
  22. I've found a bag that's been reported as being reliably sealed by my model chamber vac but it's currently out of stock except in the 100 count pack so I'm not jumping on it yet. I'm having a difficult time finding a pressure canner; since a loaded canner is pretty heavy, most are made of aluminum and won't work with my stovetop or hot plate since those are both induction units. Presto does make a canner with a clad bottom that works with induction but it's bigger than I was hoping for. It looks like Fagor made a few small induction canners but Fagor didn't survive the Spanish financial crisis of a few years ago. I do have a side burner on my natural gas grill that I could use with an aluminum canner but it's very aggravating to deal with - it doesn't adjust smoothly and it's prone to go out unless it's running wide open. My brother has several propane burners so I could borrow one of those to play with if I can borrow a canner from someone. While I do have several natural gas outlets outside that I could use with a natural gas burner for canning, I don't currently really have any other use for a gas burner - my brother generally does any frying for cookouts. Presto does make an electric canner (kinda like an Instant Pot, but made specifically for canning) that looks interesting but it's a bit pricey ($350 US) - I'd spend that if I knew I'd get a lot of have out of it but I don't know that... It's also large for its capacity so presents a little storage concern.
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