DennisLinkletter Posted March 3, 2008 Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 Here are some shots that show the components and some of the process This is the 13mm Flooring base Cut into strips Expansion joints cut - 4mm 3ply base and 9mm solid cross laminated core. Wet teak sawn at 4.5mm, pressed and dried in racks Dried in de-humidification kilns to 6% Laying up base and teak wear layer Hot press for laminating floor to core/base Teak laminated to the base Tongue and grooved on all four sides Flooring is sanded, colored and finished on tables by hand. Grain is highlighted by hand.. after being opened by high pressure water blasters and fine garnet.. Rainwashed on tables for finishing 14' long baseboards Linear planed 8" Boards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanny Posted March 3, 2008 Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 Wow... Dennis, if needed (don't know why it would be, with oiled, but if it were...) can it be sanded and refinished? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisLinkletter Posted March 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 Yes.. Big difference between PU and Tung Oil Wow... Dennis, if needed (don't know why it would be, with oiled, but if it were...) can it be sanded and refinished? Yes,.. That's the big difference between a polyurethane and Tung Oil finish. A PU finish is basically a plastic layer that when damaged/ looks tired in high traffic locations such as doorways needs the entire room sanded out and recoated. A dirty, smelly mess. The beauty of an "in" the wodd tung oil finish is that you can scotch brite the tired area, just refinish that area and it matches beautifully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
