New Grill Accessory Idea.

[jdbower]

I wonder if some thin, flat clips in the back to grab onto the rear lip would work to keep it against the rear wall? Just attach them to the rear bar of the grill and have them hug the rear wall of the cooker up to the lid. The big question is whether it would do bad things to the lid's fit or the seal. Perhaps a bit of gasket material would fix the seal, but if it would compress the existing gasket too much you may not want to remove the clips. If this is the case, you can make the clips a permanent fixture and allow the "baby grill" to be removed without removing the clips.

Another option is to try cementing a retaining pin close to the rear wall, but I don't know how well high temp adhesives work.

Of course the best option is to outfit a small child with a flame-proof suit to hold the grill in place manually during the cook, but there's a reason my sister doesn't let me babysit anymore...

[Amphoran]

Assuming that the little grill is 1/4" you could also dremel out that width around its periphery, then usually just leave it in place. The main grill would just sit directly on top of it, using it for support in the rear!.

[johnnyboy]

I dunno DJ; looks like pretty good innovation to me.

What baffles me is why you want to sear steaks in the bottom of a hole. If it's to get your steak close to the fire; why not put your efforts toward a way to raise the fire so you can use the main grill?

That's one thing I like about the K5 size is we can sear without going into a hole to do it. My hopes are the KK 19.5 will be similar.

[ThreeDJ16]

What baffles me is why you want to sear steaks in the bottom of a hole. If it's to get your steak close to the fire; why not put your efforts toward a way to raise the fire so you can use the main grill?

You can easily cook steaks on the main grill now. But you have to allow a much larger fire and for a longer time. By using a sear grill, you can cook in a quick time period with a small fire and use less fuel. Plus I like to cook steaks or porkchops as close to the coals as I can get them (highest temps).

As for bringing up the fire, not possible or would not be a good idea. You have the fire ring to contend with and a fire outside of it would probably damage your grill.

-=Jasen=-

[ThreeDJ16]

Of course some kind of tabs would ultimately be great. But I am looking for the here and now.

-=Jasen=-

FM is right, you could auger out a couple of divots in the ledge, but that may not make the best retro for the installed base (the rest of us )....... The bolt on solution is best for mass appeal.

I wonder if some thin, flat clips in the back to grab onto the rear lip would work to keep it against the rear wall? Just attach them to the rear bar of the grill and have them hug the rear wall of the cooker up to the lid. The big question is whether it would do bad things to the lid's fit or the seal. Perhaps a bit of gasket material would fix the seal, but if it would compress the existing gasket too much you may not want to remove the clips. If this is the case, you can make the clips a permanent fixture and allow the "baby grill" to be removed without removing the clips.

Another option is to try cementing a retaining pin close to the rear wall, but I don't know how well high temp adhesives work.

Of course the best option is to outfit a small child with a flame-proof suit to hold the grill in place manually during the cook, but there's a reason my sister doesn't let me babysit anymore...

Assuming that the little grill is 1/4" you could also dremel out that width around its periphery' date=' then usually just leave it in place. The main grill would just sit directly on top of it, using it for support in the rear!.[/quote']

All sound great, but trying to keep the retro easy for anyone to do. Plus I really don't wanna go drilling/cutting in my own grill....hehe....that is a little too permanent for me.

Guess I will weld on the rod that slides into the bracket today. It only requires the end user to remove one bolt to install initially.

-=Jasen=-

[johnnyboy]

DJ, I understand wanting/preferring the short close sears.

Not sure I understand what you mean by having the fire outside the firering not being good for the KK.

Again for those who don't know I have the POSK. The way my firering is designed it didn't do anyting to keep the fire contained inside the firering. The coal basket sits centered on top the firering not under, allowing fire to go anywhere. I've even heard folks use charcoal outside the basket, directly on the firering. The only part of the coal basket below the firering is a short metal chimney of sorts that has a notch in it to accomodate the gas starter. (throat if you will to direct air entering the draft door to the coals.)

Long story short; my firering turned into sand a long time ago. It's not even there anymore. My coal basket now sits on a couple bricks only so I can squeeze the gas attachment under. Otherwise I'd set the basket on the floor of the K.

Seems to me not having the firering hasn't made any difference.

I'm still confused about how the firering in the KK "contains the fire" as to not damage your grill. And why raising and lowering the basket (without the firering) would be any problem?

Raising and lowering coals on charcoal grills is a fairly standard mode of operation. Just not sure if your justification warrants not going that direction. We really need to find out from Dennis if raising the charcoal basket and not the firering will hurt anything.

Again, I still don't like the thought of being down inside a 600-700 F degree hole to sear steaks. Too easy to burn yourself, plus too easy to get arms dirty with soot/grease. Who wants to screw with trying to get that stuff off your arms while your preparing to eat.

[ThreeDJ16]

Not sure I understand what you mean by having the fire outside the firering not being good for the KK.

Here ya go....very first pic should sum it all up!

viewtopic.php?t=2159

Yeah, as far as the arm thing you mentioned...that does not happen with a KK. At least I have no problems. Have long tongs, hot fire, good steak and cold beer = no problems!

-=Jasen=-

[Fetzervalve]

JB,

It's not that far down "in the hole". Not really a problem, and kinda fun - play'n with fire.

The fire ring in a KK is an additional layer of material between the hot lump and the side of the grill. [i will try to find a picture] If you simply raised the "hot stuff", you would have radiant heat direct to the side of the grill - could cause problems with temp differential. One of the lump basket iterations hung below the fire ring and actually did affect the wooden adjustment knob. I believe Dennis has changed the basket design (he certainly replaced the damaged knobs - NO CHARGE!)

DJ - beat me with the pic link - thanks!

[ThreeDJ16]

Assuming that the little grill is 1/4" you could also dremel out that width around its periphery' date=' then usually just leave it in place. The main grill would just sit directly on top of it, using it for support in the rear!.[/quote']

You know, if I moved it forward a tiny bit (or removed the rear bar) and left it only supported on the sides, you could just notch out the sides and leave the lip in the back for the main grill support. That way you could still remove the partial grill when the main is in use and it still be fully supported. I don't know, still pretty nervous taking a dremel tool to a perfectly good grill. I don't mine adding attachments, but cutting stuff off kinda goes against the grain. hehe

-=Jasen=-

[Amphoran]

How about this?

Invert the design - two cross bars and several shorter bars running front to back. Then you only have to cut four small notches to hold the ends of the cross bars, and no danger of shifting. Just lift out when putting the main grill in, and the main is fully supported.

[ThreeDJ16]

How about this?

Invert the design - two cross bars and several shorter bars running front to back. Then you only have to cut four small notches to hold the ends of the cross bars, and no danger of shifting. Just lift out when putting the main grill in, and the main is fully supported.

Cool, on the same line of though, I could just weld one tab on each side and notch out for those two tabs! Not so scary just making two small notches. Sure am glad I did not weld up that bar for the bracket today...got lazy..hehe.

-=Jasen=-

[ThreeDJ16]

Looks great to me! I think you have a good solution.

As long as there would not be enough flex in the rod or slop in the bracket to allow it to slip off the ledge, you have it.

Of course, Dennis could make a notch in the ledge and have a couple of drop ears at the front ends of the grill to hold it fast (Ver 2.2.1 ) But we need a retrofit like your prototype!

Im with Fetz...notches on each side to hold a couple of tabs to keep it from sliding. Makes for fast and easy insert and removal. It looks like it would have to come out to use the upper grill, and it looks like it would me messy to line it up and put it back when you were done.

You should be able to dremel out a couple of notches in no time

Argh, now I see FM and Fetz were saying tabs on the grate the whole time and two notches on the lip...right? Man, I was backwards and thought you were meaning mount tabs to the KK itself. Ok, a little slow but I got there. That was a good idea.....even better now that I see it..hahaha.

-=Jasen=-

[Amphoran]

Yup, and the easiest way to make two tabs is simply cut one of the crossbars long (if you haven't already welded the thing together...)

[Firemonkey]

Argh, now I see FM and Fetz were saying tabs on the grate the whole time and two notches on the lip...right? Man, I was backwards and thought you were meaning mount tabs to the KK itself. Ok, a little slow but I got there. That was a good idea.....even better now that I see it..hahaha.

-=Jasen=-

Whew...glad you caught up!

Now I have spent the last 5 minutes trying to figure out how you thought you could attach tabs to the inside of the grill?? Man, it must be tough living inside your brain!

[ThreeDJ16]

Argh, now I see FM and Fetz were saying tabs on the grate the whole time and two notches on the lip...right? Man, I was backwards and thought you were meaning mount tabs to the KK itself. Ok, a little slow but I got there. That was a good idea.....even better now that I see it..hahaha.

-=Jasen=-

Whew...glad you caught up!

Now I have spent the last 5 minutes trying to figure out how you thought you could attach tabs to the inside of the grill?? Man, it must be tough living inside your brain!

I was actually thinking it was a suggestion to Dennis to cast in small tabs as a future cooker idea.

-=Jasen=-

[ThreeDJ16]

Yup' date=' and the easiest way to make two tabs is simply cut one of the crossbars long (if you haven't already welded the thing together...)[/quote']

So the tabs your suggesting would fit in notches on the side walls of the cooker?

Also, I welded my grill flat (cross bars connect level with outer perimeter bar...pic below), so no one bar could be longer than the outside perimeter. But a small piece could be added. I was thinking of just adding a small scrap of round stock on the bottom of the grill and making the small notch on the lip. But have not decided if I should run the round stock straight down (perpendicular) and make a sort of a pin or parallel and just make a small speed bump. Good thing it is almost 100 degrees outside....gives me another day to think about it....hehe.

-=Jasen=-

[Fetzervalve]

I was actually thinking it was a suggestion to Dennis to cast in small tabs as a future cooker idea.

-=Jasen=-

I was thinking that Dennis would need to modify the mold for the notch, the ol' Dremel had slipped my mind.

I was initially thinking you could have a piece of rod that bent or was welded perpendicular to the perimeter rod (down). However, just adding a piece on the bottom side would probably be easier - especially since you have already made the perimeter piece.

But yes, divot/notch in the grill ledge, not in the cooker side.

[ThreeDJ16]

I was actually thinking it was a suggestion to Dennis to cast in small tabs as a future cooker idea.

-=Jasen=-

I was thinking that Dennis would need to modify the mold for the notch, the ol' Dremel had slipped my mind.

I was initially thinking you could have a piece of rod that bent or was welded perpendicular to the perimeter rod (down). However, just adding a piece on the bottom side would probably be easier - especially since you have already made the perimeter piece.

But yes, divot/notch in the grill ledge, not in the cooker side.

You could also simply use a drill and slightly over sized bit in the case of welding the round stock perpendicular (making a pin). Might be easier for the average user than cutting out with a dremel. Think I am liking the pin idea more. Probably 1/2" pin and there would be zero chance of that grill sliding around.

-=Jasen=-

[Firemonkey]

How about this...

The back piece of rod could be on the bottom of the frame, while the rest of the crossbars were mounted to the top. Then you just dremel two matching divots in the back edges of the grid support lip. The back bar is lower, so it sits into the divots and keeps it from moving, you dont have to do any bending, and its a nice consistent size for retrofits.

You could do the same with the front bar, but I was figuring the back bar would sacrifice less surface area.

I guess the same thing could be achieved with just two 1/2" long pieces of rod welded under the frame, too

[ThreeDJ16]

How about this...

The back piece of rod could be on the bottom of the frame, while the rest of the crossbars were mounted to the top. Then you just dremel two matching divots in the back edges of the grid support lip. The back bar is lower, so it sits into the divots and keeps it from moving, you dont have to do any bending, and its a nice consistent size for retrofits.

You could do the same with the front bar, but I was figuring the back bar would sacrifice less surface area.

I guess the same thing could be achieved with just two 1/2" long pieces of rod welded under the frame, too

I had planned on doing any notching in the middle on the sides. I was thinking it is probably best to leave the rear lip completely in tack for support (my 1/4 grill also rests on that back lip). Notching in the middle on the sides should offer the same resistance to slipping forward too. But currently I am leaning towards drilling the two small holes on the sides and welding down facing pins since that would offer the easiest add on (most people would have a drill over a dremel) while giving the most resistance to slippage.

Man, this is what I love about being on this forum. Great ideas to help out with projects. Were it not for the forum, I would be using that stupid bracket thingy (it was a bitch to unbolt too).

-=Jasen=-