TheNakedWhiz Posted September 26, 2011 Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 The side tables I ordered are the ones made from recycled old-growth teak. The oil content of the teak is higher than it is in new growth wood. I've decided to be anal and keep the tables inside, but I still want to put a finish on them in order to protect them from food stains, etc. What is a good protecting finish to use on a wood that has a high oil content? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ifly61ce Posted September 26, 2011 Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 Re: Finishing side tables I used a Teak oil and they came out great, I was going to use Linseed oil but went with the Teak instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisLinkletter Posted September 26, 2011 Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 Polymerized tung oil works best to seal the wood.. Polymerized tung oil works best to seal the wood.. You might need to thin it with mineral spirits. Wipe it on, let it sit 20 minutes and then completely wipe clean the surface. Wait 24 hours and repeat as needed until it stops absorbing the oil.. Do not let it set up on top of the wood. This is an "in" the wood finish not "on" the wood finish.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNakedWhiz Posted September 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 Re: Finishing side tables So, will these "in the wood" oil finishes protect it from stains? I'm a slob, you see...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisLinkletter Posted September 27, 2011 Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 Re: Finishing side tables So' date=' will these "in the wood" oil finishes protect it from stains? I'm a slob, you see......[/quote'] Yes.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNakedWhiz Posted September 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 Re: Finishing side tables Next question. I see that Sutherland Welles has what is supposed to be some kickass exterior polymerized tung oil. It's a bit pricey, made even more so by the fact that they recommend you use their tung oil sealer first. About $80 for a quart of each. But, hey, I figure I'm talking about a luxury grill here. Now's not the time skimp on pennies. But, nevertheless, do you think I need the sealer and the tung oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisLinkletter Posted September 27, 2011 Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 Re: Finishing side tables Next question. I see that Sutherland Welles has what is supposed to be some kickass exterior polymerized tung oil. It's a bit pricey' date=' made even more so by the fact that they recommend you use their tung oil sealer first. About $80 for a quart of each. But, hey, I figure I'm talking about a luxury grill here. Now's not the time skimp on pennies. But, nevertheless, do you think I need the sealer and the tung oil?[/quote'] No I'm guessing the sealer is for soft woods that will soak up the entire quart.. Teak will fill up quickly because of it's naturally high oil content. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNakedWhiz Posted September 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 Re: Finishing side tables Time to pull the trigger then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
U2PLT Posted September 27, 2011 Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 Re: Finishing side tables There are two companies that make a very thin two part epoxy sealer that would work great. I have small !/2 pint sized part A & B from both at not high cost. They are: Smith & Company, 5100 Channels Av., Richmond CA. 94804. Torginal Inc., 710 Forest Ave., Sheboygan Falls, WI 53085-0102. 1-800-558-7596. You can get a sample size if you ask for it. Cozy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roland-B Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 Re: Finishing side tables for most of my life woodworking has been my hobby,once I build a replica of a german clock out of cocobolo wood a very oily wood.got tired of striping it and refinishing it so i washed it down with lacquer thinner wiped it dry an put on tung oil.never had anymore problems.try it to find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNakedWhiz Posted September 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 Re: Finishing side tables Roland, gawd I hope you mean tung oil, LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roland-B Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 Re: Finishing side tables lol yes i completely striped it washed it down with lacquer thinner then put on formbys tung oil.try it on the bottom of one of the slats nothing to lose that way,worked for me Roland can't even spell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syzygies Posted September 28, 2011 Report Share Posted September 28, 2011 Re: Finishing side tables n66951 n66952 Sutherland Welles The Real Milk Paint Company Penofin Verde ADD-2 PREVENT mildewcide So I've gotten rather into this question, and the outdoor furniture that I make (redwood tables, etc) are weathering California rainy seasons just great. Of course, any time I oil anything, my main redwood "work bench" table (by the KK) gets the spills, which I then rub in. Sutherland Welles is the real deal, and their polymerized tung oil does yield a stronger finish. However their outdoor blend can only be shipped to CA in quarts (it takes a week and then they bill you, real old school), already with paint thinner and mildewcide. Penofin Verde is based instead on rosewood oil, with natural antimildew activity, to which they add a mildewcide and a natural solvent. It's thicker than Sutherland Welles tung oil (economic death if they can't claim with a straight face that deck contractors can apply it in one coat) and I wanted to thin it for better penetration. They wouldn't play along, giving no good reason but no advice. Lately I just buy pure tung oil, and citrus solvent, from the Real Milk Paint Company, and thin anything I have with citrus solvent. Nice for me and CA to go green, no downside that I can see. For outdoor finishes I add mildewcide, available at any paint store. I'm giving up the added polymerization of Sutherland Welles, for blend-it-myself control. Our puppy licked up some spilled Penofin. I wouldn't cook with it, but no need to call poison control. Puts a nice spin on "green" methods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
