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rorkin

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Posts posted by rorkin

  1. First chance to use the KK this year and I too opened it up and found quite a bit of mold.. Mine is about 200 feet from the Chesapeake Bay so I have no doubt where the moisture came from.

    Am doing a long empty burn to work out the moisture if absorbed by the refractory. Keeping the heat down to 350.

    I am sure the temp will take care of the mold..

  2. Re: You are correct sir!

    I just wrap the stone in foil

    Did in-direct with clay saucer over the fire and deflector sitting on top of that.

    I use the clay saucer as I cannot bring myself to dirtying the stone that came with my KK, waiting for my clay saucer to fall apart then I'll dirty the stone.

  3. Re: I like this simple up front mount.

    Flush mount....absolutely. Especially since quite a few people will not use them. No point in drawing more attention to them by having them stick out.-=Jasen=-

    Good Point, I really liked the flush mount on yours.

    Nice touch adding the DigiQ mount, but how about a hanging mount using existing bolts? That way it is removable.

    -=Jasen=-

    It comes with a bracket doesn't it? But if you have side tables on you loose the place. I like this simple up front mount.[/quote:1hv7q7f7]

    Mine is flush mount and it looks great. The Rubber stopper that goes into it does seem a little loose and falls out from time to time

    I don't know if that is because the stopper is a little small or the tiles keep it from being fully inserted.. You might want to check that out on your pre-production models.. On looks though it is flush mount

    Rory

  4. To keep chicken fat from burning in the drip pan.. Place it on the heat deflector with a few inches of tile or anything that you can use to elevate

    the dripping pan .. That way the ceramic heat deflector does not act like a pizza stone and cook off the chicken (or other) fat..No smoke or burned flavor

    I use this method on all cooks

  5. Re: I'd quit the wood tomorrow.

    All the best for you future ventures (you'll still be selling KK's right?)

    If I had my way, I'd be out of the woodworking in a year or two.

    If we could get AU buying KKs during our winter (their summer)..

    I'd quit the wood tomorrow.

    ;);)

    Patience grasshoper.. It will come.. You have built a better mousetrap

    Rory

  6. Re: Roti Shaft

    Dennis the rotisserie motors have a standard square hole that is 5/16". Your bearing hole on the KK is slightly smaller, so you have been making the shaft to fit it but the smaller has some wobble in the Motors. I had received from you the motor shaft with a spring and it does come loose. Another reason is because your SS bracket to hold the motor is too thin and has lots of flex in it. All the motor brackets that come with the EZQ systems are thicker, which I noticed when I had gotten their Hobo unit. I bought some 5/16" tool steel and only ground down one end to fit your KK bearing.

    This helped mine work better. To take care of the bracket flexing I used a cable tie near the top of the motor and slid it under and up on your motor bracket which stopped the the motor flexing.

    Mine acts exactly the same way.. The motor dances around and the basket can actually stop turning with the motor and shaft turning..

    I have the spring loaded shaft

  7. I do think that the rapid cooling makes a very nice difference in the retained moisture content of the brisket. Of course that is provided there was still juice left in it to begin with....hehehe.

    Here is a link to an old post on cooking brisket! viewtopic.php?t=1667

    -=Jasen=-

    Oughta somehow get that information into the recipe section if it is not there already

    I will repost something about it in the cooking technique section...how's that?

    -=Jasen=-[/quote:1mgnlsfe]

    Works for me :-)

  8. I do think that the rapid cooling makes a very nice difference in the retained moisture content of the brisket. Of course that is provided there was still juice left in it to begin with....hehehe.

    Here is a link to an old post on cooking brisket! viewtopic.php?t=1667

    -=Jasen=-

    Oughta somehow get that information into the recipe section if it is not there already

  9. Actually I leave my main grill in place a lot and use the trap door on my KK. It is large enough to insert or remove my heat diffuser, drip pan or top off my charcoal. Also just flip up the door to use my grill starter torch too. So it sees plenty of use so I don't have to lift that heavy 3/8" grill. Just wish the sear grill had a door on it also and I would leave it in place all the time too.

    -=Jasen=-

    I cant imagine trying to pull out the pizza stone on a hot grill through that door but I guess you can.. THe drip pan is usually full of drippings and that would spill if you tried to pull out through the trap door.

  10. If you want a K user opinion; I prefer the grids running front to back.

    But I hate the trap door handle in front on the K grill, it gets in the way; so I turn the grid sideways. That's why I know I don't like grids running side to side, but it's better than the trap door handle being in the way.

    Does anyone use the trap door? Maybe I've been lucky. I've grilled for years and have never used it. But I keep my charcoal level full, check/re-adding at the beginnng of every cook. I've found starting off a cook with a full load of charcoal, is always plenty, including low n slow. The charcoal that isn't used by the time I shut the grill down is saved for next time. (Or better said, "used" to be saved for the next time; before the huge crack all the way through my K wall showed up.)

    I hardly use the trap door.. Once and a while I try to sneak in a few hardwood chunks . The real problem is that the head deflector prevents any real access to the embers.. I guess it has some value without the deflector.

    Since I always keep the charcoal full when I start, there really is no need to add except perhaps a 20 hour smoke.

  11. Re: The KOmodo gives back program too...

    Wow ! That is really great.. If you could just get the price on those plugs down a little , you could throw in an extra one and have the Komodo just fly itself to the customer.. Thus saving all that freight. DJ can start working on the delivery guidance system right away .. (which with a simple throw of a switch turns into a combination torch fire starter and lid activated fan control ) :-)

    quote="DennisLink"]

    Very nice Dennis! Though at $328 each, they are kinda on the pricey side!

    -=Jasen=-

    368472360002498

    Yah, I know but they do go to 6000º and also have an anti-gravitational feature that takes 268 lbs off the Komodo for easier handling.

    This along with the polder cable protection plan makes them actually a good deal.

    DJ, You have to look at the BIG picture!

    Oh.. yes this is part of the KOmodo gives back program too...

    If American Idol can.. KOmodo can..

    :lol::lol::lol:

  12. Re: Guru port plug

    Same here

    Excellent!

    Now all we need is a plug for the Guru port. ;)

    If you buy a Guru this lovely plug comes with it.

    If you buy a new KOmodo in the near future..

    It will have one also.

    I recommend purchasing the new KOmodo if you really got to have one.

    :lol::lol:

    GuruPlug.jpg

    HA! Don't think I can justify to the wife buying another Komodo at this time.

    Hope that new Guru plug is bigger than the old Guru plug...I have an old Guru plug and it is too small for the port on my Komodo.

  13. Re: High temp polder tube plug..

    Fortunately the "quantity" for that price is 22,000 pieces :-)

    At long last I've found a KOmodo quality plug for the polder hole.

    DJ's plugs were great while they were in production but here is the long term solution.

    Guru Fred Sr. made up this 3/4" split grommet high temp plug for me..

    They are great quality can handle 6,000ºf and are only $328 each when bought in bulk.

    I'll be sending them out to all my customers..

    No charge of course!

    :lol::lol:

    Plug3.jpg

    Plug.jpg

    Plug2.jpg

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