mguerra

Simple Why not just put the lid on sans paste and forego drilling holes? Should be just enough leakage.

HOA He's my neighbor in the Texas sense. He lives 22 miles away. And believe me, down here, that's a neighbor. I HATE my HOA. But I like the neighborhood and the house, so, I just put up with their inane, petty bullshit.

question Wow, actual plant growth! And even some algae. Central Texas looks like the surface of the moon after 26 months with no appreciable rain. Do you usually cook that meat at 300 plus? I'm guessing a 225 low and slow is needed. That's what tenderizes the tough connective tissue. A pork loin roast does not require that, however. But I see ribs in there, so that's not a pure loin cut.

hey girl! So, Marcy, do you have a ceramic cooker?

solution The reboot fix did not work for me, but if you try it and it works, so much the better. Faster than a repair/replace!

set-up Hey, swalatee, I looked at your previous posts. Did you fit a 19.5" in that outside bar of yours? Post some pics of that!

kudos "Fan"tastic! The screw is a simpler fix, too.

My neighbor got a new ceramic cooker, and some fuel, you can see he has the top vent just barely cracked for a low and slow:

yes sir Holy Schmoley that looks good!!!!

Stoker pearls Be sure to see my posts on this thread, regarding the flap possibly sticking open, and a fix. http://www.komodokamado.com/forum/viewt ... sc&start=0 The Stoker needs to be right side up, or the flap won't close. As was said, be sure the top vent is just barely cracked when using a Stoker or Guru, and completely close the bottom damper. Your Stoker IS the bottom damper. Also, there is a known fault in some Stokers in that the fan runs non-stop even after the set temp is reached. Call John if that happens.

Well done Dang! I thought I was being so creative, grafting a Guru nozzle on to the Stoker housing, oh well. Still, it's cool looking! And I got to play with tools. But, Dennis and John definitely got the right solution. Good job, men.

why 131 Many posters have reported the AW-129 does not have the best transmission range. That the 131 talks is superfluous, I use it for the range. It absolutely transmits to my bedroom and beyond. Once you get a Guru or a Stoker, you may not use your wireless thermometer much. The reason being you will learn how to start a cook so it WILL NOT get finished while you sleep. Since you will be awake, you can check your Guru or Stoker periodically. Still, there will be times you want to just plop your ass down and not get up, then you will use your wireless, if you are nearing your finish.

warm If you start your cook 20 hours ahead, the meat will still be warm at serving time foiled, toweled, and coolered. Guarantee. And try the newspaper trick.

advice To be sure your meat is ready for a planned serving time, I suggest starting a butt 20-24 hrs ahead. The meat will be done in time, in fact some hours ahead. You then simply foil it, wrap in towels and put in a cooler. It will still be hot when you pull it. This is going to allow you several hours til bedtime to get your cooker temp stabilized. You should then be able to go to sleep no problem. Figure 2 hrs/ lb, ball park. You also have plenty of time to get a wireless remote thermometer before your party, my suggestion would be the Oregon Scientific AW-131, it has good transmission range. The problem with a Maverick is you never know which ones have a decent transmission range. If your cooker isn't less than 20 feet from your bedroom, you can't trust it. The AW-131 has one probe, use it for the meat. Or get two and use one for the pit. What it won't do is give you a low temp alarm for your pit. In my experience, that is not a problem, you are WAY more likely to get a fire too hot. Especially if you stabilized it before bedtime. If the meat gets done while you are sleeping, it will alarm you. Don't waste battery life by turning it on at the beginning of the cook, your meat won't be done anytime soon. Turn it on and verify it is working just before sleep. Your meat should NOT get done while you are sleeping if you have the temp between 200 to 225. Your only concern is controlling the fire. Start with a full or over full basket of lump. The top vent opening you need for a 200ish fire is going to be less than you think. Since you will have plenty of time before bedtime, you can get this right. It's going to be barely cracked off its' seat, less than a half turn. The bottom vent will also be open a smidge only, about the thickness of a coin, as others have stated. Maybe a dime, maybe a quarter, you'll get it. A pork butt is a super forgiving cook, you almost can't screw it up. I do at least one every week. Shoot, you should throw one on there this afternoon just for the fun and the practice. And what a value, the stuff is so cheap! To be honest, I'd just as soon eat a KK pork butt as a filet.

Drs. advice I never clean mine, just scrape off the big chunks.

stainless cabinet My personal preference is to have everything out of sight. To that end, the guy that makes this product says he will customize it to your specs: http://vfifab.com/patiogrillmate.htm Email him for all the details.

custom job There's a guy who makes a stainless cabinet and said he would customize it to fit our 23" grills and so on. I'll post tomorrow.

No need to break it in, thermally; your break in is going to be emotional and experiential. Get a good piece of meat, your favorite adult beverage, a nice cigar if that's your thing, and enjoy. There's a whole thread on how to start a fire, if you need that, I like a torch. MAPP or propane. Opinions will differ on this, but my first cook was a low and slow, pulled pork. Why? You have probably already grilled plenty in your life ,but your KK excels at L&S! How many 12 to 16 hour slow cooks have you done? If the answer is none, here's your chance! This is where your KK will shine, and make you look like a star to all who partake. Or just grill a chicken.

another spring thing Be sure to prop the lid securely and fully open before releasing the lid spring, if you plan to remove the lid for moving.

more than one way If you look at the photos, another idea might strike you. The last photo is the Stoker nozzle, detached from the fan housing. The tube is welded on with four welds. It could be cut off and a 31 mm O.D. tube welded on in its' place. You could do that. This is obviously the solution John at Rock's could do, as well. Not cut off the 32 mm one, but just make some with a 31 mm tube, I mean. Where do you get 31 mm tubing? I have no idea, but could probably figure it out in one day. I'm thinking possibly a muffler shop. If we just had the old port....

Mission Accomplished I have successfully attached a Guru nozzle to a Stoker fan housing. So, if you have a Stoker and a KK with the new, Guru specific port, you can use this mod. I am going to repeat for the third time; and no disrespect intended, that I believe Dennis should stick with the original 1-3/8" port so these shenanigans aren't necessary. Here is the mod: Remove the gasket from your Stoker nozzle. Remove the four screws that attach the nozzle to the fan housing using a Phillip's screwdriver. The Guru nozzle has two, 3/32" allen bolts that attach it to it's fan housing and you will use these to attach it to the Stoker housing. I purchased the Guru nozzle with the damper assembly and found that you do not need the damper. If you have the damper assembled to your nozzle remove it. Better yet, just order the nozzle alone from the BBQ Guru. It is Item # 20-033, Large fan nose. Study the photos carefully. You will drill two holes in the face plate of the Stoker fan housing. These holes need to be precisely spaced. I used a caliper to transfer the center to center spacing from the Guru attach bolts on to the appropriate surface of the Stoker fan housing. Note that you will be drilling on the side plates of the fan housing, not the top and bottom plates. Use a 1/16" inch drill bit to drill pilot holes, and then a 1/8" bit for the final hole diameter. Now simply attach the nozzle to the fan housing using the allen bolts, placing one gasket between the nozzle and the housing. You will use a 3/32" allen wrench. That's it. When I ordered the parts, I did not order by part number, I simply asked for a nozzle with damper assembly. As I said, you don't need the damper. If you call, press for extension 241 and you will get Sara. Ask for the nozzle, they call it "Large fan nose" and the O-ring, if it is not included, and the gasket, if it is not included, and two attach bolts. I actually think the O-ring, gaskets and bolts are all included when you order the "Fan nose" Just find out from Sara. This is all you will need. Be precise in the placement and spacing of your two drilled holes, that is the key. Dry fit the nozzle on to the fan housing to visualize what you are doing before drilling. Here's the photos: http://gallery.me.com/mpguerra#100197 Ignore photo 1010014, that is just a picture of the damper, which you don't need. You will notice that in these photos, the actual fan itself is not present. The reason is I had a spare fan housing laying around sans fan, I will put the fan back in later. Don't think you have to remove the fan from the housing, you don't!

go Rain won't hurt it, nor you. Put on your raingear and get after it.

Modification Just received the Guru nozzle/damper assembly. I will attach it to the Stoker fan housing, probably after lunch, and post photos and details.

bee in cactus flower From old 3.2 Mpixel camera