ThreeDJ16

Re: Stoker details

Thanks for the ideas guys, recently acquired a Stoker and needed to adapt to KK. Yeah, I know Stoker now makes an adapter, but for $10 Sarah sent me just the nozzle, gasket and bolts for the Guru fan. Prefer the hands on / power tool method any day. My Stoker fan just had a flat metal plate on the front with a hole in it (no adapter). So just left it in place and drilled holes for the Guru nozzle. Works great! Oh yeah, decided not to wait for a sticky door on it (old model fan) and added the small screw mod...thanks!

-=J

Update, just found out Sarah is no longer working there. Shame, as she was a very good customer service person.

Fours items listed on my invoice:

20-033 Large Fan Nose (pit boss & viper)

95-145 #4-40 x 1/2" SHCS-SS (bolts)

98-002 Large Nose Gasket (2)

98-182 O-Ring #118 Viton

Anyway, it was $14.15 with shipping.

Re: Kamado Smoked Chili

That is freakn' awesome! Bet it took a while doing stop motion?

-=J

Re: Stoker details

I wanted the trending that the Stoker offers with Stokerlog. Still love my Procom, but there is always room for new Que Controllers. Matter of fact, I am working on something else altogether different at the moment.

Re: Tiny Stoker wireless gateway

Thanks for the post..grabbed one the other day. Coming from China, so hope it arrives soon. $29.90 & free shipping.

-=J

Re: Stoker details

Thanks for the ideas guys, recently acquired a Stoker and needed to adapt to KK. Yeah, I know Stoker now makes an adapter, but for $10 Sarah sent me just the nozzle, gasket and bolts for the Guru fan. Prefer the hands on / power tool method any day. My Stoker fan just had a flat metal plate on the front with a hole in it (no adapter). So just left it in place and drilled holes for the Guru nozzle. Works great! Oh yeah, decided not to wait for a sticky door on it (old model fan) and added the small screw mod...thanks!

-=J

Re: Knives

I bought an Apex Pro a few years ago and I am simply amazed at the results.

I agree!

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=928

I am also buying this book Gerard recommended. Can't believe the deal.

Re: Whatcha think? OTB Shaped Heat Deflector

DJ reminded me that the mind is the first thing to go..

Actually, I said it is usually the second thing to go....as the old joke goes.

But I voted yes then and still like the idea now.

-=J

Get a grilling wok.

When I raised this issue in a different thread, it was pointed out that only down where the charcoal basket normally lives are the KK walls prepped to be next to a fire. I was fully prepared to get a Weber charcoal grate to suspend below the main KK grill, before hearing this.

Sure, some of us have been discussing a method with a thin, spare arrangement of coals that aren't that hot. It may be "obvious" that this is ok. Nevertheless, I'm not putting any fire above the official level without an explicit OK from Dennis. Oh yeah, and we have a small Weber, which cost 1/50th of the KK. The only debate here is if one is pressed for space.

Remember, I'm here because I basically destroyed a competitor's K7. The KK can take much more, but I'm not using it outside spec without an OK from Dennis.

Can't remember the thread, but he has already stated this is not recommended. There tends to be a reason for the ~2" thick firebox. So for those of us who wish not to void our warranty, best leave the fire where it belongs.

Re: Norton Waterstone 1000/4000

Damn, now there is another brand of knives I want!!! Love those Damascus clad, SG2 core knives with ironwood handles.

Norton 24450 Japanese-Style Combination Waterstone 1000/4000 Grit' date=' 8-Inch by 3-Inch by 1-Inch[/url']

For any of these Japanese knives, there will come a point where a steel, ceramic or otherwise, is not enough to keep it sharp, and you'll want to sharpen it. Western methods won't work as well as a waterstone.

I have perhaps half a dozen waterstones, but the Norton 1000/4000 combination stone is my favorite. At 3" wide, it is easier to use than my first 2" stone. Being synthetic, it is harder to slip and dig into the 4000 grit side. For home use, one won't live long enough to use up either 1/2" side.

For a kitchen knife, there really is no point to going past a 4000 stone; some feel 3000 is enough. The higher grits are intended for woodworking; the kitchen is considered a less demanding application. As I mentioned earlier, going even to 4000 is a compromise, giving one the satisfaction one's knife is "sharp" (like "smart", a single-dimensional word trying to describe a much more nuanced reality) at the expense of slicing prowess best found by stopping at a lower grit.

Eventually, any stone gunks up and goes out of flat. Fixing this is the main source of actual wear on a stone. The fancy way to fix this is to rub against a diamond stone. The easy, inexpensive way is to tape some fine wet/dry sandpaper against a flat surface, and rub.

I don't bother with angle guides. Work carefully, and it sounds right when you've got the angle right.

I like to prop my stone up on a Thai mortar in the sink, with water dribbling over it from the faucet. Not exactly traditional, but one can improvise here.

I cannot answer the edge question about these knives in particular, but I have SG2 powder steel core knives now and they are awesome!! Unless they come out with a newer metal that is better, this will be my blade core choice. Sharpening is reduced greatly (maybe yearly), though I do a quick ceramic realignment before most uses. And even with the hardness level this metal achieves, my EdgePro wet stone sharpening system cuts without too much effort (I go to 6000 grit). Only downside to blades made with this steel is they are not meant for hard chopping as the very fine, brittle edge will chip. Simply keep another blade on hand for chopping.

Up there with the best chicken I've made in a decade was for a large party at my brother's place. It was supposed to be a tossed-off course for the kids' date=' in case they wouldn't eat steak. We rented one of those 2' by 4' metal caterer's grills, I spread the embers thin a few inches under the cooking grates, over eight square feet. I turned the chicken fairly constantly[/quote']

This is pretty much the same technique used for true southern pit cooked BBQ and what I grew up eating/loving. Simply 4 cinder blocks / cooking grate set on top of cooking apparatus with a fire pit close by to create the burning coals underneath. Completed with a salt/vinegar mop, chicken or pork is awesome. But it is a very time consuming/laborious cook. I also agree it has a very unique taste of it's own and cannot be replicated in ceramic (try many times I have).

But I don't consider this high temp cooking (burned down coals and open cooking) as I would not cook a steak or pork chop this way. Still seems to me the original thread question can be answered "Yes" and use the sear grill on the KK! If that doesn't work, buy a Weber Smokey Joe!

-=Jasen=-

Save your money, get a Weber to back up the KK.

There's a style of close grilling, patterned e.g. after close-quarters street food cooking in Thailand (or Queens, NYC), that I can match better on a Weber than a ceramic cooker. The key issue is the ability to spread out a very spare layer of embers, just under the grill for the entire length of the grill. The KK ceramic layers aren't designed to be compatible with an optional charcoal grate in this position, just under the main grill.

If size is not the restriction, what is wrong with just using the sear grill over the charcoal basket? I often do very small hot / fast meals (just two of us) and find no issues doing the entire cook on the sear grill directly over the charcoal basket. Takes a matter of minutes to get a fire going adequate for close cooking, couple minutes cook with lid open, and quick shut down (or dwell if need be). Outside of grill never even gets warm. Very little charcoal usage and no other grill needed.

But if I had to have a small backup, I agree with this choice. I don't really see where ceramics buy you anything on fast high temps in the style of cooking in which mine is used.

Very Nice! Wish there was something like that local for me....our "Fresh Market" is about as fresh as the local grocery store.

FYI, try that poultry spice on beef. I make a rub for brisket that is very similar in ingredients and it turns out excellent.

Hey Cook_shack, if you are just using the torch for a starter, thought you might like to know the small canisters do last quite a while. I go through less than 2 a year and start lots of fires. To me it is much more convenient than having a big propane cylinder and hose laying around. Anyway, just thought I would mention it while you were searching.

Here is my Habor Frieght torch (which is obviously modified).

http://www.komodokamado.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2293 As you can tell by the post age, it is over 2 years old now and still going strong.

-=Jasen=-

Re: Week of Thai Classes

I know one can grill on the lower KK grate, but has anyone experimented instead with bringing up the charcoal, onto a wider grate at the level of the lower KK cooking grate?

I'd be interested in a charcoal grate intended to fit that level, if one can't simply fit a Weber grate into place there somehow.

I like the idea of using the bottom grill to hold a secondary charcoal pan. It would also work great for indirect given the size of the main grill.......

Major issue with that is you're bypassing the protective layers of the firebox area.

Man, considering how good my $6.99 a pound bone-in ribeye from Publix was, guess I got a real bargin!

Looks like a bone in ribeye to me. Had one tonight!

Wish I could undo watching those videos.....wife says "ditto".

I have used tonic water for years on leg cramps. Can be tough to take a big swig since it is so bitter, but you get used to it. Also works for a twitching muscle.

Interesting enough, here is a link that mentions all of these "folk" remedies.

http://www.health911.com/cramps_(muscle)

Luv it! In the U.S these would be called pork shanks. tough as whale blubber unless done as you suggested! I would guess they melted in your mouth!

Is this cut of shank from the upper portion of the leg? I've noticed that the shank portion available here tends to be narrower, more like a lamb shank than the rounder German style cut.

Yes, it is quite a big piece and so it must be from the upper portion. One of this shanks weights about a pound. I also had once the narrower parts in France and it was very disgusting. It had almost no meat but only fat and gristle.

An easy meaty cut that is readily available in most places is the shoulder. Have the butcher cut the leg end of the shoulder and it works out perfect. Though you don't get quite as much skin as with lower cuts. Some of our markets already have this piece cut off of about half the shoulders in the case (Publix market).

Here is the recipe I use for German Schweinshaxe viewtopic.php?t=559 . Though lately I pressure cook to get up to temp (the vegetables add more flavor to the meat), then grill at high temp or deep fry to finish (man the frying makes the skin awesome but sinful).

Has anyone tried these yet?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJbTzrpn ... r_embedded

http://firewiregrilling.com/MarinatingKit.php

http://www.amazon.com/Fire-Wire-Stainle ... B001BXMNAU

I may pick some up soon and give them a try. They look interesting.

Hey Tlinder, this looks a lot like schweinshaxe! Did you finally get me a recipe? haha

I made some last week, but instead of using hocks (knuckles), I use the leg portion of a shoulder roast. That is easier for me to find (fresh) and has a lot more meat.

-=Jasen=-

Fresh Coriander leaves

Isn't that cilantro?

BTW, looks great. Love to see more Thai recipes on the forum!

??

Wait, wasn't there another post around here somewhere about being anal while grilling?

As someone who makes interesting gadgets for a limited market, I feel I have to support anyone doing similar things when our interests intersect.

So - I got one of these. The disk is aluminum, the tines are stainless. Looks like they were shrunk in (i.e. heat the aluminum and chill the stainles tines, then assemble. When temps equalize, they are very firmly held in place). The shaft is a standard 1/4" drill extension, and is NOT stainless. Looks and feels very robust. After having had the pleasure (not!) of hand-pulling 12 butts for a large group bbq last summer, this looked to be a great solution.

It is intended to be driven with a cordless drill at relatively low speed. Why would you need a second bucket with a hole?

Mike

Nice....curious how it works out. I thought the shaft looked like a standard drill extension.

FYI, the second bucket was a possible simple solution to prevent motor brush particles from the drill motor getting into the food (it was suggested on another forum). Which I assume that would be the concern in the food service industry while using a typical household drill (not that I would worry about it for my use).

I agree about the neat solution. Just glad I am not the only one on the forum who is too lazy and distigusting (earlier posts) to use such a product for destroying good pork! hehe

-=Jasen=-

Re: Thanks for the kudos..

For those interested.. I have not seen any of the costing information..

I made up the smaller all teak ones and got feedback in this post above..

Ran out got the stone and it's been a rush to the finish line to get them done and into the container which left today.

Most of the shots with the marble top were shot at noon and the color is a bit washed out.. They are much richer looking than in the photos.. The tiger looking streaks will balance out..

I probably won't have a cost until mid week next week..

Thanks again for the kudos..

The stone tables are being shipped to my house when??

-=Jasen=-