Firemonkey Posted February 22, 2010 Report Posted February 22, 2010 Well, at the very least burning a basket of fuel should make it a little easier to scrape it all away So if we have determined it is grease-based buildup, does that make it "bark"??
cruzmisl Posted February 22, 2010 Report Posted February 22, 2010 FWIW I do low and slows but also do lots of grilling at 6-700f. Maybe all the junk burns off........
Firemonkey Posted February 22, 2010 Report Posted February 22, 2010 I think thats the key, the higher temps to burn it off. You probably also use a drip pan too?
cruzmisl Posted February 22, 2010 Report Posted February 22, 2010 I think thats the key' date=' the higher temps to burn it off. You probably also use a drip pan too?[/quote'] Sure do.
Curly Posted February 22, 2010 Report Posted February 22, 2010 After I cook a butt (any long slow cook really) I open it up and let it get pretty hot. Seems to clean it out real nice.
ThreeDJ16 Posted February 22, 2010 Report Posted February 22, 2010 I'm also a but skeptical of a v shaped damper surface. Just to clarify, my thoughts were for a very tiny raised ridge, not necessarily a V. But the purpose was just to reduce some of the surface area contact with the gasket and same deal with the small metal ring idea. I do not see where that would damage a gasket. As far as condensation, hell the inside of my grill sweats already, so I am not worried about it dripping back in from the damper (would be nice to help keep the outside clean if it works..). BTW, I agree with the grease buildup and high temp cooks as only my low and slow grill gets this buildup. But I have never had to hit it with a 2x4...hehe. -=Jasen=-
bryan Posted February 23, 2010 Report Posted February 23, 2010 Does anyone else use lava rock to catch grease and let it build up? Could this be the source of the problem. Could it be the air in Texas is hot?
Firemonkey Posted February 23, 2010 Report Posted February 23, 2010 I have played with using lava rock in a grill wok instead of solid deflector. The idea was to have something in between direct and indirect. The grease is absolutely the problem, as both reported cases of this are doing primarily low and slow, and do not use a drip pan. I dont think the rock is as much a factor as the lack of high temp cooks to burn it out occasionally. DJ has 2 grills, keeps one set up for low and slow, the other for higher temps...guess which one has the buildup and glues itself shut? He says there is no issue on the one that gets higher temps, and he doesnt use any drip pan under his butts either.
mguerra Posted February 23, 2010 Report Posted February 23, 2010 fix Unfortunately, there is no way I can burn the grease/ tar out of the top gasket. It's totally embedded and infiltrated in the weave. So I'll replace it after cleaning the top of the cooker thoroughly. Then I'll start cooking with the top a little wider open, clean the heat deflector after each cook, and do a few hotter cooks now and then. That will probably get it.
Firemonkey Posted February 23, 2010 Report Posted February 23, 2010 Try hitting it with a torch? You dont need it white, you just need it burned off so its dry and not sticky.
primeats Posted February 23, 2010 Report Posted February 23, 2010 If those gaskets are soaked, you'll have a tough time burning it out. You may want to do an R&R with similar gasket material.
mguerra Posted February 23, 2010 Report Posted February 23, 2010 replace Yes, I'll just do the R and R, start with a nice fresh clean gasket. I'll have to rig a way to keep all the cleaning chemicals from running down the inside of the cooker. From cleaning the top damper surface I have found that a paint scraper removes almost all of the build up. But to secure the new gasket I want the mounting surface spotless clean ceramic. Probably after I remove the gasket, I will scrape first, torch a little, and then finish off with a chemical cleaner like Easy Off or similar. But I need to plug that opening to keep the chemicals out of the cooker.
primeats Posted February 23, 2010 Report Posted February 23, 2010 Careful with the easyoff, after torching it use a surface reducer,I think it should all evaporate. I use this when refinishing non porous surfaces. Just afraid cleaning chemicals may leave undesirable residue.
mguerra Posted February 23, 2010 Report Posted February 23, 2010 explain Surface reducer. What is it?
primeats Posted February 23, 2010 Report Posted February 23, 2010 Kinda like paint thinner, it prepares the surface for adhesives or paint,stripping off any glue or grease
primeats Posted February 23, 2010 Report Posted February 23, 2010 Kinda like paint thinner, it prepares the surface for adhesives or paint,stripping off any glue or grease
Firemonkey Posted February 23, 2010 Report Posted February 23, 2010 How about something like rubbing alcohol to be fully safe? Scrape, torch wire brush down to clean surface, then alcohol to remove any residue before putting down the gasket?
primeats Posted February 23, 2010 Report Posted February 23, 2010 mguerra Surface reducer. What is it? Acetone works pretty well, with very little toxicity(wikipedia...so it must be true)
bryan Posted February 23, 2010 Report Posted February 23, 2010 mguerra Acetone works pretty well Don't inhale fumes.
