Jim Malter Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 Anyone have any suggestions on a simple fix to reduce air leakage between the top and bottom lids? I have a decent amount of smoke escaping from the seal and am having trouble quenching charcoal at the end of a cook (by reducing all airflow). I have seen application of silicone sealant to the lids but would prefer an less invasive fix. Thanks Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanny Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 prolly look under "spring" in the search feature. Some folks adjust the spring and that goes away. Magic. Of course, YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turtle Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 Re: Air Leaks Anyone have any suggestions on a simple fix to reduce air leakage between the top and bottom lids? I have a decent amount of smoke escaping from the seal and am having trouble quenching charcoal at the end of a cook (by reducing all airflow). I have seen application of silicone sealant to the lids but would prefer an less invasive fix. Thanks Jim Jim, If you press down on your handle when it is closed and locked, are you able to press the lid down some more? If so then your front latch needs a small adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisLinkletter Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 Latch Adjustment When you close your cooker the latch should just catch. Then you should press down on the handle and press the latch handle towards the body. The top should now be held securely held closed and you should not have any movement when you press down on the handle. If this fails to do the trick please write me and I'll post a photo by photo instruction guide to re-seating the top half. But it's basically releasing the spring tension and then loosing up the four top bolts on the hinge. your top and lower half will now be perfectly aligned. Tighten up the bolds and the spring tension and volia your cooking airtight.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanny Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 See? It feels like winter here, but spring is coming. Or at least pictures of springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Malter Posted December 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2006 Re: Latch Adjustment When you close your cooker the latch should just catch. Then you should press down on the handle and press the latch handle towards the body. The top should now be held securely held closed and you should not have any movement when you press down on the handle. If this fails to do the trick please write me and I'll post a photo by photo instruction guide to re-seating the top half. But it's basically releasing the spring tension and then loosing up the four top bolts on the hinge. your top and lower half will now be perfectly aligned. Tighten up the bolds and the spring tension and volia your cooking airtight.. Dennis. I adjusted the latch as suggested but still have some smoke escaping. I will try the rear adjust as you suggest. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruzmisl Posted December 31, 2006 Report Share Posted December 31, 2006 If you're doing a low and slow with lots of smoke then you will get some smoke seepage which I believe is OK. On the other hand, if you have smoke seepage AND have trouble controlling the temps then you should try the adjustement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krusty K Posted July 26, 2007 Report Share Posted July 26, 2007 You assuredly have never seen a REAL leak... Believe me you can cook with your leaks which are probably negligible compared to what I have learned to live with in seven years with my K7. I'll be watching for resolution to this. BUT...You want leaks - I'll show you leaks And here is a close up that I used to try to show RJ that my bands would never stay adjusted. KK desgin prevents this absolutely. I can maintain 250*, but hard to stay at 200*. My customers swear I have the best shoulder and ribs, but in 7 years I have not cooked a brisket I'd be proud to feed my family let alone a tough Midwestern tavern rat. Makes good beef enchiladas however. I know I can I just have to switch to "packers" cut and get more indirect. New priorities as of discovering the KK. New kitchen, Simpon's pinball machine, then KK. Wonder if I'll be able to sell my K7.... he said "When you open your Kamado dealership, you can sell your #7 for more than you paid for it and get a new one (don’t know why though). Maybe a new color?" Thank GOd he never took up my offer to be a distributor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curly Posted July 26, 2007 Report Share Posted July 26, 2007 Re: You assuredly have never seen a REAL leak... ... Thank God he never took up my offer to be a distributor. Wow, he musta had a really weak moment...I'm surprised he didn't get you for 50k on that desire...it's happened before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
U2PLT Posted July 26, 2007 Report Share Posted July 26, 2007 Adjustment for Smoke Leaks I talked with Dennis yesterday and told him I was thinking of filing the holes on the front closure system so I could create more tension, since I was able to stop smoke leak by pushing down on front handle. He told me there was actually movement available because holes had just that sort of relief in them. He also said that with use the gaskets will get flatter, and he was thinking of pounding the gaskets with a wooden mallet after construction before they do the smoke test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToastedMorsel Posted July 27, 2007 Report Share Posted July 27, 2007 Easy fix.. My OTB had a leak just behind the side plate on the right. I was able to reduce most of it by adjusting the lower latch catch. It has oval holes so it can be adjusted. The handle should not move when you press down on it. But with my guru blowing I still had a leak in the same spot so I gently pried up the outside gasket (it's not exposed to much heat) and put silicone "under it" to increase it's thickness. I let it dry about five minutes then placed some saran wrap over it and closed the top. After it dried, I pulled off the saran wrap trimmed the excess silicone. It is now 100% leak free, even with my guru blowing away. Dennis told me the same thing that the gaskets start out fat and plump but after being crushed repeatedly get thinner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
