sumrtym

Re: the best full feature cookers possible You know with those few, simple statements that you have me dreaming of battery operated rotisserie goodness while camping now, don't you?

I'm assuming the smaller model keeps the rotisserie as well? Another vote for a camping size.

I'd be interested in seeing these pictures (and especially, if one or several aren't in there, how you transport the KK's for competitions).

Ok, everyone proud of their Komodo Kamado? I'd love to see some good videos put on youtube to advertise the cooker. Detailing the construction, adjustments and how they impact temperature, how easy to open, etc. There's getting to be a few BGE videos, but would be good to see some for the KK. They should really show the cooker and it's features as most people who order would never see one in person first. Possible topics: Proper installation and use of the rotisserie unit (something no other ceramic has) Unpacking / uncrating a KK Performing a lid adjustment if needed Various cooks / setups (pizza, butts, ribs, etc.) Guru inducer tube installation / operation Stoker installation / operation Factory tour / building / testing video Then an area of the forum to link to those youtube videos.

I've heard bamboo is a bad choice for cutting boards due to the hardness that it really tends to be hard / bad on the knives, requiring frequent sharpening....

I've tried using the search feature, but haven't found any measurements for the actual grill surface (both the raised grid and regular grid). It would be good to have a few pics posted of each with those measurements shown at widest points. Given the shape, I'm assuming there's no way to really calculate cooking area easily....

Sure, there is some silicone products rated as food safe, and some that is not. Silicone rubber grout typically falls into the latter and it's use is constrained to bathrooms, not kitchens or food prep areas. There are, of course, food safe liquid silicone grout sealers on the market and we're all aware of the current influx of silicone utinsels. However, just like tiles, all silicone is not created equal.

From my conversation with Dennis, the textured was on hold because of the different materials (refractory vs insulated) used around the internal bands. Because the refractory material expands at a different rate, and it's a harder material used entirely in the band area, cracks in the exterior develop on the textured because of this different expansion rate. I'm still waiting for Dennis to comment on the actual tile ratings as last time we conversed back on 7/24 he didn't know. Tiles are rated by 4 degres of moisture absorbtion. Non-Vitreous tiles have a water absorbtion rate of 7% or greater (wall tile) and is suitable only in an indoor environment. Semi-Vitreous tiles are rated at more than 3% absorbtion but less than 7%, and this makes them suitable for indoor applications only as well. Vitreous tiles are rated with water absorbtion of less than 3% moisture, but more than 0.5%. Vitreous are refereed to as frost resistant tiles but can not be used in exterior areas where freeze / thaw conditions could cause the tiles to crack. Impervious tiles are tiles that have less than 0.5% moisture absorbtion (think porcelain tile as an example). These tiles are frost proof and can be used in exterior areas, or on the outside of buildings. My concern about the tiled units is on longevity over time as I'm not certain what is being employed on the KK's. I also passed on some info regarding grouts, the other point of possible exterior failure. Epoxy grous are strong, highly water resistant, and require no sealing. Silicone rubber grout is water-resistant and elastic, but the silicone properties make them unsuitable for food-handling areas. Dry-set grouts, nonsanded, are suitable for grout joints not exceeding 1/8" in width. Sanded grouts are suitable up to 3"8". Latex additives can be added to make them stronger and more waterproof. At the time, I suggested to Dennis that the best choice for KK construction would be glass tiles with epoxy grout. I don't believe the glass tiles would add significant, if any, higher cost, although epoxy grout undoubtedly would. For one, glass is completely non-porous and will take ZERO moisture, and through-body colored glass tiles are acid, alkali, and chemical resistant and will not fade over time, unlike glazed porcelain. They also will not stain. It does not decay or deteriorate with exposure to the elements. Glass tile is hygenic, non-allergenic, and will not support the growth of mildew, mold, or bacteria. It is frequently being used now in swimming pool construction. Epoxy grouts are becoming popular with the use of glass because many of them have a chemical composition that resists stains and breakdown. They are non-porous and non-absorbant, thus elminating all maintenance concerns regarding moisture. When mixed with antimicrobial products, they even inhibit the growth of mold or mildew, which is a commmon occurance in regular cement grout. It also results in a stronger product. Anyway, those two options to me would make the KK the best cooker and relieve the biggest concerns over time with the cookers. As I said, the glass tiles should not add to the cost significantly as I found them priced on the web as low as $1.75 per 1.15 square feet (less than $100 in material cost for tile per KK). Epoxy grout does run higher but will save purchasers the additional cost in reduced maintanence, cleaning, and sealent over their years with their cooker. Just my suggestions / concerns regarding current materials and the unknown ratings on presently used tiles.

I wonder how well the open lid sensor works as it doesn't actually attach a switch or anything to your cooker, it measures it from the heat drop opening the cooker.....not sure about that working right 100% of the time and recovering correctly. If it does, great, but I'd really like nakedwhiz to test the heck out of that part of it. I just know he's gonna cook in a thunderstorm for us too to test the rain-proofness. The picture seems off to me on the display though. Where it shows the temp, I don't see a light or anything signifying if that was pit, meat, etc. even though there is a label for it (should be a dot or arrow lighted in that pic?)

Waterproof housing, expanded temp range (32 to 475 degrees F), new armored high-temp probes (700 degree F rated), open lid sensor, and even higher accuracy on sense / control. http://www.thebbqguruforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=363 Pricing is $159 PLUS fan and adaptor.

Just out of curiosity, what does the new one do on the magnet test?

If you're eating hamdogs regularly, can I have your grill when you die? >starts making a nice area for it

Pictures are no longer working for larger versions. Could these please be reloaded?

How about a stainless steel KK? Tiled with stainless steel tiles. http://www.susanjablonmosaics.com/p_StainlessSteelTiles.cfm

Just put a hunting vest on yours....

Re: Wire Access Plugs Nice. I'd just leave them through it and pull the plug out afterwards (no threading each time), then plug with a solid. Are you drilling any out for FOUR probes as well as 2? (think guru competior + maverick)

Thanks for the info. I sent a couple of e-mails to Dennis regarding colored tile as well. I'd kind of still like to see something that says the material has been used in a big manufacturer of brick ovens for food, or been tested, etc. On another topic, someone told me RED tile is very expensive, but if he could find a source that wasn't, how many people would take a KK in something like THIS? http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/object/article?f=/c/a/2007/06/27/HOGQVQBBUN39.DTL&o=2 Can you imagine a KK in that shiny bright red (akin to the shiny every-popular cobalt) with the nice stainless steel?

That was just a reference to the BS post by the "other" kamado. I do want more info on the materials (other than the data sheets which only have a thumbnail view now). I'd really like something saying food safe from somewhere, esp given the comments from that corrsepondence on the brick oven manufacturer... You know, kind of how BGE users were throwing on Rutland gaskets to get around burning, only to find out the fiberglass breaks down in them and the manufacturer said it was a food hazard. I'm paranoid about things I would eat a meal off of 3-4 times a week at least. Just looking for that confirmation given this is a newer cooker, manufactured overseas using material used in kilns.

Oh, I know all about the mexi-K. Was just an offhand comment that the top didn't look like it had been changed other than materials and wondered if that was such a good thing. The 2nd question more related to ceramic cookers such as BGE, Primo, etc. One more question but has the refractory material used for the cooker / deflector / pizza stone been tested and approved as food safe? I found a link to an oven manufacturer who said they didn't use more exotic refractory materials because of things like alumina, and not having done any testing to see if it was food safe or not. (this is SO not about the asbestos / exploding claim). Just want to make sure that somehow I know it is food safe on materials used. Below is a link to a company making brick / ceramic ovens for homes for baking / pizza. http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:EfI-hemfGNoJ:www.rumford.com/tayloroven.html+refractory+materials+safe+around+food&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=23&gl=us Reading through it, they start talking about "alumina", exotic materials used in kiln refractory materials, and having no testing done to see if food safe.

1. I'm wondering about the design of the top damper. It appears to be a stainless steel copy of the original Kamado with added gasket. I'm wondering how easy this is to grab to turn / adjust, and about the wear and tear on this part as it is so firmly built into the cooker (screw and bolt). I'm still trying to understand why this would not get stuck as well? 2. Unlike most ceramic cookers, the firebox doesn't appear to have a bottom with holes. Instead you use a basket. I see this having better airflow / eliminating clogged holes, yet at the same time looks like it would waste charcoal (small pieces falling through). Not only that, but as they burn down, they're going to easily fall through the grate (not just ash) it would look like to me so you'd have them burning on the outer shell / floor of the Komodo more so than competitors. Any comments on possibble increased fuel waste / burning coal on outer shell?