Firemonkey

I was cruising some other bbq forums, and there has been a bunch of talk about hog wings. These are small pork shanks, boned back a little. Word is they are fall off the bone tender with no fat. I would like to find a local source for the raw ones. Apparently they also come pre-cooked. http://www.farmlandfoodservice.com/pdf/ ... _wings.pdf

I just picked up a chuck roll from Sams club today, have you tried there? I asked the guy behind the counter if he had one, and he asked how big I wanted. I replied, "the smallest one" and he came back with 23.15# I am going to roast a good portion of it for pulled beef, but I will probably cut off a couple of decent sized roasts first, to freeze for later.

Dont forget the pictures! I wanna see the pictures with all of that meat loaded up!

Well, if you put the beer cooler on the back patio, le me know because I am moving in next door. You dont have a big, mean dog or anything, do you

hmm...Im not sure I am convinced it will make a difference on the grill. Is it supposed to go on cold? I guess I will have to try it one of these days. Maybe a side by side comparison - 2 spatched birds, one with, one sans brick.

You have a newer Gen2, right? Looks like maybe the 411 needs updated http://www.komodokamado.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=921 BTW, Ive been in Chicago this week. I havent smelled anything good wafting down on the wind your direction?? Must have been the rain

I just re-read the recipe above (I only skimmed it earlier because i was in class ). Besides the temp being absent, whats the story with the brick?? I have seen people use a brick when pan searing, which I can understand, but why have the brick when on the grill?? Is the brick supposed to be preheated? If so, then I guess it could make sense in a non-ceramic, but if its going on cold, what purpose would it serve?

I did a little comparison in one of my overnight cooks, where I used one of my single probe mavericks so I could keep an eye on the cooker temp. During a 250* low and slow, the wireless probe was reading about 10 degrees lower at the main grill level, than the temperature probe on the dome. If I remember correctly, the temps at the grill level for the direct cooks were not much different, maybe 10-15 degrees, but all I did was remove the Tel-Tru from the dome and hold it in the polder hole for a couple minutes during one of my first couple of cooks.

I think the guru plug is the soft outer layer Actually, isnt there a wad of paper in the middle of it to make removal less of a chore?

It does timeout when you dont have the remember me setting turned on. I only have to provide my login a couple times a year on my computers. When Im off working, I have to provide it every time I open the browser.

I dont have a rotis, but I have done chicken both direct and indirect. When i do it direct, I do so on the upper grill up near the top of the dome. This keeps the direct temps diffused enough not to burn up the bottom. If you do direct on the main grill you have to be careful that the bottom doesnt char. I typically butterfly the bird before grilling it, which shortens the cooking time, and keeps things moist. I flip half way through as well - just about the way the recipe above says (oonly without the brick). If you didnt flip, the bottom will be much darker. I do get some smoke, but not the thick sooty smoke that will foul the taste of the bird. More of the "oh my God that smells good" kind. Give the recipe a try, you will have a winner. The good news is that chicken is relatively inexpensive, so you can try it both ways and let us know what you decide

Another idea... Leave the front crossbar, and one other crossbar extened 1/2" beyond one side of the grate. You drill two matching holes in the side of the grill, and then you just insert the two reulting pins (longer crossbars) into the holes. Make sense? Think of inserting the left side into the holes, and dropping the right side down into place. Would not be able to slide fore or aft, and removal is just lifting out by the unattached side.

How about this... The back piece of rod could be on the bottom of the frame, while the rest of the crossbars were mounted to the top. Then you just dremel two matching divots in the back edges of the grid support lip. The back bar is lower, so it sits into the divots and keeps it from moving, you dont have to do any bending, and its a nice consistent size for retrofits. You could do the same with the front bar, but I was figuring the back bar would sacrifice less surface area. I guess the same thing could be achieved with just two 1/2" long pieces of rod welded under the frame, too

Whew...glad you caught up! Now I have spent the last 5 minutes trying to figure out how you thought you could attach tabs to the inside of the grill?? Man, it must be tough living inside your brain!

no, i mean what do you do when you want to use the main grid for a roast? You have to remove the grate you just built right? You saying it should align and slide back into the bracket easily, when its all greasy from use? (still keeping it clean )

Im with Fetz...notches on each side to hold a couple of tabs to keep it from sliding. Makes for fast and easy insert and removal. It looks like it would have to come out to use the upper grill, and it looks like it would me messy to line it up and put it back when you were done. You should be able to dremel out a couple of notches in no time

Keep yours away from mine...I dont want it getting jealous because it doesnt get any kind of pampering like that. I let the daily afternoon thunderstorms wash off the smoke and soot

I didnt say it was going to be a simple tweak But I know Dennis would rather get it right now rather than later. The grill is recessed a few inches into the vessel - you can see it in this thread: http://www.komodokamado.com/forum/viewt ... c&start=75 All I am saying is that if he wants to shorten the feet for cost or aesthetic reasons, but is hesitant because of the shorter work surface, there is a feasible solution to have both. I didnt vote in the poll, but personally, I would rather have the higher work surface. But I agree that it looks better in the shorter stance. Closer to the lines of its big brother.

Why not do both? My K5 grill is actually the same height, if not an inch or two higher than my KK main grid. The K grid is even with the top of the base, while the KK grid is several inches below the lip. Its raining out right now, but I am almost certain the opening itself is the same height, the K5 legs are really tall. How about the best of both options?? Raise lip for the main grid up on the inside, and shorten the size of the whole unit if the cost savings are significant enough to warrant the change? The rotis mount would still work, since the rack would not be in place when using it. The polder hole would be below the grate, but how big of a deal is that? You would also have more room to make use of the lower grill if you needed to do a larger cook on it - and that is something I would have loved to be able to do on my smaller grill.

Legs of lamb...half a pig...are you doing your quarterly cook this weekend or what?

Now we see the true motivation behind a smaller, and shorter, OTB

This is going to sound outrageous, especially after all the claims you got from the other kamp....but YES! you can take out the fire ring. Its two pieces, and its very solid and heavy, not brittle and crumbly like the lower quality brand. You almost have to take it out to empty ash, and there is absolutely no harm in doing so. Just set it back in place when you are done. It doesnt "wedge" in like the POSK type does.

I like to put a small grape tomato in mine, and then fill the rest of the cavity with cream cheese. I like them better with less cheese, and the juicy tomato tastes great in the mix. You could absolutely cook these without bacon. I bet you could put the cheese in first, then plug the pepper with the grape tomato. The cheese melts and runs out if you dont have it captured with bacon. Just keep it indirect, about 300 until they are very soft. They wont dry out unless you let them get crispy. DO cook them for an hour or more, or they will be very hot. The longer you cook them, the milder the heat becomes. Mist them with olive oil before you put them on. It helps keep them moist, and will give the spice something to adhere to. If you are worried about them drying, keep a little bath of liquid on the grill to dip them in periodically.

Geo, I have a K5 thats about 5 years old, and a Gen2 OTB. Here are the differences as I see it; My K5 still has all its tiles, but there are big patches that are barely attached, and it doesnt get used any more - that has to help it stay together. It has cracks all over the place, and i have to make sure I spin and oil the damper repeatedly or it will rust shut again and I will likely break it trying to get it loose. The K5 has a crappy lumpsaver that is rusting away like it spent a year under the ocean. The "stainless" grills have a coating of light rust, too. My KK has none of these concerns and it gets used very often. The stainless is bright and shiny, including the lumpsaver and grill racks. The grill racks are 3/8 inch instead of 1/4 like on my POSK, so there will be no warping going on. The KK opens itself, and until you have that luxury a few cooks, you dont realize how sweet it is. Opening the grill is a one handed ZERO effort affair on the KK. From a feature comparison, there KK is WAY more refined than the POSK. But you know the big picture included some other major concerns, and you will have to decide how much value to place there. I am not sure what the K7 sale price is, lets just assume its close to $1000. You *know* that a great many POSK units have serious defects, and you must also know that the likelihood of getting parts or service is nil. It sounds like you got lucky with the first purchase - are you willing to accept the risk of this unit falling apart? Is the sale price low enough to consider the grill disposable? Yes, there is a significant price difference between the K and KK. But for me, it was a no brainer. I was going to get something where I didnt have to worry about buying another grill in a few years. I hate throwing good money after bad. With the KK, You will get a far superior product, with real support and a valid warranty. With a K7, you will get nothing but interest on your credit card for several months, and then *maybe* you will get a grill. There are scores of stories from people who have been waiting as long as a year to get their POSK delivered, and finally gave up. You can find them on the fraud forum if you havent already had a look. I guess the bottom line is your Mom was right when she told you about things that sound too good to be true. The POSK sounds like a bargain...maybe you will be lucky again, or maybe you could have a several hundred dollar headache?

Re: Newbie Questions That is about the only way to get it out. I find it easiest to remove the charcoal basket, maybe even the fire ring, and just push it all out the front door. It can be messy, but you dont have to do it very frequently. When the ash piles up in the middle, you can push it back up around the edges, under the fire ring. For the few times a year you do need to empty it, try to pick a day thats not too windy. Since the ash is falling from the front door to the catch bin on the ground, wind will make it exponentially messier Some people just stick a shop vac in and suck the ash out, if that sounds better to you.