leejp Posted June 30, 2006 Report Share Posted June 30, 2006 Got a 7lb butt in the OTB Supreme as I write this... Just one comment so far... The temperature control is FAR superior to my Kamado #7. The OTB is just sealed better then the #7, particularly the damper door. I just spun open the damper wheel a crack and it's holding steady at ~225 without ANY adjustments. The top damper seems to have a wider range. So all one needs to do is to get the top damper "in the ballpark" and set the dial on the bottom damper... easy as pie. My Sacramento #7 bottom damper never sealed properly and sliding it back and forth was far less than precise. It would hold the temp once set but getting there was a rather steep learning curve. Big thumbs up so far!!! Pics... That's a full load of Wicked Good Weekend Warrior Lump... turned out to be a 16hour cook at 220*~230*. I'll take a pic of how much was left over in the AM. Here's what's left over (pic taken the next day). I shook the ashes off the charcoal basket. There was a good 1/3~1/2 of the coals I started with left in the basket. This is AFTER 16HRs!!! With good lump I'd bet 30+ hours on a single load is absolutely possible. The pit thermometer goes through the hole but the meat thermometer has to lie across the gaskets. Ha! caught another one... Tel-Tru hole is not drilled square (I suspect it'll loosen up with use though). Dennis.. don't mind me nit-picking these flaws. It's only so you can improve the quality of your cookers over time. Think of it as quality feedback. Finished product. good smoke ring and bark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firemonkey Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Good to hear! I have found that my K5 responds better to adjustments at the top, not the draft door. It was definitely tricky to get the hang of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curly Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 On my K7 I use the top for control almost exclusively. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leejp Posted July 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Re: Good to hear! I have found that my K5 responds better to adjustments at the top' date=' not the draft door. It was definitely tricky to get the hang of it.[/quote'] Perhaps this has something to do with it? This is a picture of my Kamado #7 with the bottom damper completely closed. Sliding this contraption back and fourth is not exactly precise for fine adjustments. The OTB Supreme's lid and dampers are tight. A small leak out of the polder hole's about all the smoke I saw. With the bottom damper shut there is no way the coals are going to get any oxygen. I'm going to try an experiment. I'll bet if I shut the bottom damper completely, even with the top damper moderately open, the fire would go out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firemonkey Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Mine actually seals It almost looks like you got a #5 door with your #7 grill. I was going to devise something to plug the polder hole when I get my KK. Not permanently, since I will use it sometimes for my wireless maverick. Maybe with a rubber stopper on the outside, just to keep rain out during the tropical downpours here in FL, and to keep smoke from staining the grout above it when its not in use during a cook. It might also be a good idea here, since it woudl help keep the occasional adolescent lizard (which like to lurk inside of the tube on my mexiK gas draftdoor), or other wildlife from squatting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeDJ16 Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Silicone Plug? I was thinking about making a silicone plug. Just get some high temp silicone and the release agent to make your own plug for the polder hole. One thing I am curious about is the diameter of the polder hole and it's thickness. The reason I ask is my probes are L-shaped (at least the meat probes are for the Guru) and I am wondering how much I am going to have to bend them to get the through (as the plug end is huge - think computer PS2 port plug or S-video on a TV). Anyone had to put a bent temp probe through the polder hole yet? -=Jasen=- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firemonkey Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 check tonys pics I think I saw someone using an L shaped probe via the hole. The hole looked to be maybe 3/8 to 1/2 inch when I took a peek at Theos KK. I wondered the same thing, buut figured it must fit since nobody had mentioned not being able to get the probe in there. My mistake, it is a straight probe, the wire made it look L shaped: http://upload4.postimage.org/500730/photo_hosting.html can anyone confirm that an L shaped probe will fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeDJ16 Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Nope - Not in Tony's Pics? I looked closely at his when he first posted and did not see an L-shaped - only a straight with a grid attachment, but I just checked again and did not see one. I am hoping it will fit, but I have not noticed a pic yet - maybe Dennis can confirm if it will or will not easily fit? -=Jasen=- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoliver Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Relax I only had to bend the L-shaped probe very slightly and it fit right thru. The hole is about 9/16" wide. I also used a standard drill bit to widen (slightly) to make it easier to get the temp probe in the top hole. Just go slow and be careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firemonkey Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Re: Relax I only had to bend the L-shaped probe very slightly and it fit right thru. The hole is about 9/16" wide. I also used a standard drill bit to widen (slightly) to make it easier to get the temp probe in the top hole. Just go slow and be careful. Spoken like a true mexi-K veteran! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leejp Posted July 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Re: Relax I only had to bend the L-shaped probe very slightly and it fit right thru. The hole is about 9/16" wide. I also used a standard drill bit to widen (slightly) to make it easier to get the temp probe in the top hole. Just go slow and be careful. But the problem is probe removal, no? For me, once the probe is in it does not come off until I'm ready to pull/slice since the juices will start to flow out of the hole left behind. Particularly for steaks. Spoke with Dennis about this awhile back and my vote was for ~ 1-2 inch gap in the gaskets replaced a more pliable with silicone material so the probe wires could be "pinched" between the top/bottom lid without issue. Guess I lost that one ;( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisLinkletter Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Polder tube and sensors.. The diameter and legnth of the polder tube was run by and approved by Fred at BBQ Guru from the gitgo.. It has a stainless sleeve in it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeDJ16 Posted July 1, 2006 Report Share Posted July 1, 2006 Re: Polder tube and sensors.. The diameter and legnth of the polder tube was run by and approved by Fred at BBQ Guru from the gitgo.. It has a stainless sleeve in it... Ok cool, was wondering if that base was covered - check! -=Jasen=- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoliver Posted July 3, 2006 Report Share Posted July 3, 2006 Re: Relax I only had to bend the L-shaped probe very slightly and it fit right thru. The hole is about 9/16" wide. I also used a standard drill bit to widen (slightly) to make it easier to get the temp probe in the top hole. Just go slow and be careful. But the problem is probe removal, no? For me, once the probe is in it does not come off until I'm ready to pull/slice since the juices will start to flow out of the hole left behind. Particularly for steaks. Spoke with Dennis about this awhile back and my vote was for ~ 1-2 inch gap in the gaskets replaced a more pliable with silicone material so the probe wires could be "pinched" between the top/bottom lid without issue. Guess I lost that one ;( Not sure what your asking here. You put the probe thru the hole and put it in the meat and leave till whenever you want. The guru hole is separate and is at the bottom of the unit. It has grout in it when it comes I guess untill you remove it if you have a BBQ Guru. On my list of things to get but haven't yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leejp Posted July 4, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 Re: Relax I only had to bend the L-shaped probe very slightly and it fit right thru. The hole is about 9/16" wide. I also used a standard drill bit to widen (slightly) to make it easier to get the temp probe in the top hole. Just go slow and be careful. But the problem is probe removal, no? For me, once the probe is in it does not come off until I'm ready to pull/slice since the juices will start to flow out of the hole left behind. Particularly for steaks. Spoke with Dennis about this awhile back and my vote was for ~ 1-2 inch gap in the gaskets replaced a more pliable with silicone material so the probe wires could be "pinched" between the top/bottom lid without issue. Guess I lost that one ;( Not sure what your asking here. You put the probe thru the hole and put it in the meat and leave till whenever you want. The guru hole is separate and is at the bottom of the unit. It has grout in it when it comes I guess untill you remove it if you have a BBQ Guru. On my list of things to get but haven't yet. I don't remove the probe from the meat until the meat is out of the cooker and has sat for ~20min... Don't want to lose ANY moisture/juices through the hole left when the probe is removed from the meat. I don't see how one can leave the probe in the meat and still be able to remove the meat from the cooker if the probe is fed through the "polder hole" on the side of the cooker unless the plug is small enough to get through that hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisLinkletter Posted July 4, 2006 Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 Simple fix I don't see how one can leave the probe in the meat and still be able to remove the meat from the cooker if the probe is fed through the "polder hole" on the side of the cooker unless the plug is small enough to get through that hole. Simple fix Ask your butcher for "tube steak" Can't ya pull it out and then slip it back in? The same hole that is.. What's up with my posts today? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curly Posted July 4, 2006 Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 That's good Dennis, tube steak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcoliver Posted July 4, 2006 Report Share Posted July 4, 2006 Ok, I understand now. Can't help you there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
