Aussie Ora Posted March 25, 2017 Report Posted March 25, 2017 Well, I started. I got one screw off each rod on the door. They came off quite easily, in fact. My sockets are too thick to go on top of the other ones - the nuts are right next to the rod. Will need an open-end box wrench (9/32"), but of course I don't have one that size in my toolbox. It wouldn't be a project without at least one trip to the hardware store! Murphys law mate got everything else but what you need Outback Kamado Bar and Grill
5698k Posted March 25, 2017 Report Posted March 25, 2017 I just finished mine, I used a small, left handed crescent wrench. I do suggest to others who plan on doing this change to take a picture of the old rods in place before removing, there is only one way the rods go. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 2
tony b Posted March 25, 2017 Report Posted March 25, 2017 Thanks for that tip, Robert. I'll remember that when I finish up.
DennisLinkletter Posted March 25, 2017 Author Report Posted March 25, 2017 If the demand as an upgrade for these continues, maybe I should source and supply the open-end box wrench (9/32")and send with the rods.
tony b Posted March 26, 2017 Report Posted March 26, 2017 That would be cool, seeing as it's a "tweener" - between 1/4" and 5/16", so it's an odd size that most sets won't have.
tony b Posted March 27, 2017 Report Posted March 27, 2017 Update: Got the 9/32" wrench and it worked like a charm. The whole process took less than 15 minutes. Followed Robert's advice - took the old rods off one at a time -replaced with the new one before doing the second one. A dab of blue LocTite on the threads and spin on the wing nuts. Easy, peasy! This puppy ain't going nowhere anytime soon! 1
5698k Posted April 4, 2017 Report Posted April 4, 2017 Hey Dennis, what about something similar for the main draft door? I very rarely open mine other than the vents, and that's to clean the ash that fallen in there blocking the door from sealing well. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
DennisLinkletter Posted April 5, 2017 Author Report Posted April 5, 2017 15 hours ago, 5698k said: Hey Dennis, what about something similar for the main draft door? I very rarely open mine other than the vents, and that's to clean the ash that fallen in there blocking the door from sealing well. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Are you using the solid sheet ash/heat deflector? If so ash should not be able to reach the draft door frame..
5698k Posted April 5, 2017 Report Posted April 5, 2017 Yes, I'm using the solid deflector, but over time, small amounts of ash make it to the door. It's a maintenance item for me to occasionally remove the door, clean the inside of the door and clean the frame itself with a wire brush. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1
Aussie Ora Posted April 6, 2017 Report Posted April 6, 2017 I see no need for the front but that's just me when I clean out Ora I remove the front and do a thorough clean to easy takes less than 5 minOutback Kamado Bar and Grill
DennisLinkletter Posted April 15, 2017 Author Report Posted April 15, 2017 On 4/5/2017 at 7:56 PM, 5698k said: Yes, I'm using the solid deflector, but over time, small amounts of ash make it to the door. It's a maintenance item for me to occasionally remove the door, clean the inside of the door and clean the frame itself with a wire brush. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Do you have the curved side up on the heat shield?
FotonDrv Posted April 16, 2017 Report Posted April 16, 2017 Isn't it supposed to be curved side down?
5698k Posted April 16, 2017 Report Posted April 16, 2017 The curved side is up, with the lip fitting under the fire ring. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1
FotonDrv Posted April 16, 2017 Report Posted April 16, 2017 5 hours ago, 5698k said: The curved side is up, with the lip fitting under the fire ring. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk you can tell it has been a while since I had to pay attention to it...
