tcoliver

What size? That is freekin beautiful, now what size is the connection???

Tobias, sorry for the delay but I am not familiar with international shipping and I forgot a document and that is why your temp gauge has been delayed. Hopefully all is cleared up and you will recive it in a few days. Let me know when you do. Tony

I agree I cook a lot of pizza and I put the KK stone on the charcoal basket and the pizza stone on the upper grill. I cook at 400-500, some people get good results with higher temps but that may be an experience thing you will have to find out for yourself.

I agree, the charcoal box handles should be long enough to help support the grill.

Follow Up Ok, I finally got time to do some more tinkering with the valve. This time I took the smallest drill bit I had (1/16" I believe) and drilled out the gas jet (or whatever its called) hole, made a BIG difference, now I have a MUCH higher flame and can reach temps in the 700 degree range. Can light charcoal in a matter of minutes. I think I am finally satisfied with the results. Since I have such a good flame now I can keep the draft door open about an inch and the top open to my 350 degree setting (about 3 turns). This makes it a little safer as it will be less likely to go out due to lack of oxygen. Once I get the new low air flow draft door I will be able to keep the door shut and only adjust the low air flow (sweeeeeeeet). Once again I don't recomend this for everyone; but it is an option if you aren't satisfied with the original set up.

Yes, thanks again for the explanation and clarification on this issue.

Awesome Perfecto mystro!!! Now start shipping them things!!!

I was going to say it doesn't look like your dome is all the way up as mine goes a lot higher.

Sorry I was using LP for "Liquid Propane". Try reading it now. The regulator is a Precimex mod 5000, if that means anything to you. After further review I think you may be correct, it may be low pressure. I'll have to go to HD to see if I can find the package as I didn't keep anything about it.

Actually I bought the regulator at Home Depot and I believe they only carry the high pressure stuff. It was with all the other BBQ items. Next time I'm in there I will double check but I'm 99% sure its for Propane. Its just your cheap off the shelf regulator. I'm still not sure that this is a low pressure burner, I had thought that Dennis always said it was set up for Propane first and then could be converted to NG. Also when I took everything apart the hole in the jet was VERY tiny, isn't this consistent with Propane? NG is larger? If I get the time I can disconnect the hose from my turkey fryer since it has an adjustable regulator and see what happens. I understand about the "lift off", one time the flame went out in my old K and I went to re-light it, probably less than 15 seconds later. Well it went kaboom, I think the lid actually lifted and it fried my arm hairs. Very scary. I'll be honest the K burner put out much more gas and much more flame. I feel safer with this burner. As you say I could just leave well enough alone but if I can get better results with a different regulator why not do it. I appreciate the feedback.

Ok, just so I'm clear do you think that if I got an adjustable regulator that went to 20 or 30 psi I would get a bigger flame even if this is a low pressure burner? Here are the ones I have found. One is 0-20psi and the other is 0-30psi. Yes you are right I probably don't need to do this, 400 degrees is plenty. I actually did a pizza today for lunch with just the gas and it came out fine and only took about 45 mins. I also used it to just light the charcoal and it only took a few minutes to get going. But....bigger is always better.

Well my high pressure regulator is working at 10 psi but I guess there would be no point in getting a 20 psi regulator if this is a low pressure burner, probably wouldn't make a difference and probably wouldn't even work. Maybe Dennis will chime in to let us know for sure. Another question, does a regulator have any safety benefits to it or is it simply to lower the pressure to make certain devices work properly? What would happen if you connected to tank without a regulator?

Ok, just looked online and I probably have a preset 10 psi regulator. I saw that you can get an adjustable 0-20psi regulator. I will look for one local but if anyone knows of a place please let me know. Thanks.

Yeah, my regulator has no adjustment. The regulator on my turkey fryer does have an adjustment. So are you saying that if I buy an adjustable regulator I could release more pressure? Hence more heat? I take it its not a good idea to pry open the permanent cap on the non-adjustable regulator huh? I did readjust the valve attachment and output so it now sticks out futher and adjusted the thumb turn. This did make the flame more consistent but did not change the heat much. One thing I must add is that I believe my tank is almost empty so it probably is not at full pressure.

DJ, I also was very leary of cross threading this fitting however 1/8" is VERY close to the 10mm. Whan I was at home depot I took the fitting that came with the valve and it actually fit into an 1/8" nut, it fit better in the 10mm but was pretty snug int he 1/8". Considering the 1/8" is slightly larger than the 10mm it made it very snug when I screwed it into the valve. After I installed it I did a very safe flame test with a lighter and have done so a few times since. I will keep a very close eye on it for sure. I appreciate the concern and the offer to retap however the thickness of the threaded hole is very short and you probably would not be able to get a tap into it. I had thought of bringing it somewhere to do the same. If I begin to smell gas I will trash the valve as you say. I'm actually use to it as my K burner leaked all the time but I couldn't figure out where. Never did the flame test since I could actually smell the gas leaking. When I turned the valve off I always got a quick POP after a few seconds. As for the airflow. I tried it every which way I could, draft door all the way in and top open very wide, then shut down to a couple turns. Draft door open and the top open wide then closed down. It really didn't seam to affect the flame or temp very much no matter what I did. Actually for some strange reason it seemed to go down when I opened the draft door. Maybe the heat was escaping thru the door. There is still the hole for the pilot tube but it is very small so there is a little air flow even if the door is completely closed. The new draft door will be very helpful in this aspect. Also I figured the burner would go out if it didn't get enough air, this never happened. I too would be interested to see pictures of other peoples flame and get their input on how high of temps they can get. I did have the thumb turn opened all the way as I thought this actually made it hotter I will try closing it tommorrow to see if it makes any difference.

DJ, I take it this is too much rigging for you huh? It really looks worse in a blown up picture. When its on the grill you barely notice it.

Re-Incarnation Of the Gas Burner Ok, first let me preface this post with "THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO NEED TO DO THIS", however being the type to want things exacly how I want them I decided to set out to reincarnate the gas burner valve. I was also pushed by the forum followers to do some R&D. So see below my new product which I transformed using about $10 of parts I found in Lowes. I think the usefull part is that I believe I found out that the thread size is 10mm 1.25 (whatever that means) However since these type of fittings are not readily available I was able to make a 1/8" pipe thread work to screw into the valve. I had the hose manufactured and it had a 3/8" MPT end. I took off the pilot light and sacrificed safety for looks. (Don't do this at home). Anyway just thought I'd share my work. BTW I was able to reach about 400 deg. with just the gas. Not sure if all my rigging made it give off less heat but it looked like it was burning pretty well. If anyone else has a gas burner let me know if this flame looks the same. About 1/2" in height. Sorry Dennis but I had to take the burner apart that I had as people were asking questions. Needless to say you don't need to send me a burner now. All you readers must back me up on this as I was doing it for the team even though this was not "MY" burner.

The one's that came with mine were 7 & 8, didn't even get to enjoy the baby stage!!!

Fuel You Need Fuel Filling the center ring is not nearly enough coal to do a high temp cook. As stated above get rid of that center ring, when you want to cook load up the basket and open both doors. Keep an eye on it as it will rise quickly with enough coal in it.

Well as you can see the jet piece is what attaches to the door so if we could find a metric to standard adapter we could still use the supplied jet piece. We could still use the valve you showed if we could find an adapter that was (metric size)FemaleX3/8"Female(or whatever size the output is of the valve). As you say we could then just disconnect the entire valve from the jet, attach the adapter and reinstall the new valve. I also would need an adapter that is 3/8"femaleX(whatever the size of the input side of the valve is)Female as the end of my hose has a 3/8" mpt connection. I also thought at first the assemble would be a little flimsy but in working with it it seems to be OK. Let me know what you can come up with and thanks for the help.

DJ, here are some pictures. All three female threads into the valve are the same size and look exactly like the empty pilot thread in the first photo but I can't figure out what size they are. They may be metric. They are slightly smaller than 1/4". The male part that has the orifice in it is about 1/2" but really has no bearing as it is the opposite end that screws into the valve.

Any Luck DJ, have you found a different valve yet? If you do let me know as I would like to get one. Like you said it would be nice to have one that only has one knob and the hose connection points down. The hose I bought has a 3/8" mpt on the end.

Looks Great Very ingenious!

Re: New User Questions Welcome Fixie!!! 1. The gas option is set up for propane and only needs to be retrofitted if you have natural gas so you are ok. 2. I'm assuming the gas option you have has a flare fitting on the end of it. You need to go to Home Depot or a BBQ store and get a hose made for this application. The only modification you need to make is to cut off the fitting on the end of the hose and just slide the hose on the flare fitting supplied, unless you can find a hose that has the right thread to attach in place of the flare fitting but this may be hard to find. Use a standard hose clamp which you can also find at Home Depot to securely fasten the hose to the fitting. Also be sure the hose comes with a regulator. This is usually attached on the end that fits into the tank. 3. You are correct in your analysis of the valves, turn the one on to the pilot light, light it, push in the burner and turn on the main burner valve. When done turn off both valves. 4. Talk to Dennis and he will let you know about the Temp Gage. If you are due one I will ship it from here. Good luck and Happy Cooking. Hope your ready to meet all the neighbors when they smell the wonderfull things coming from the cooker.

PC, I think you will find you need much less lump with KK's than you did with K's. I would think that filling to the top of the charcoal basket would be plenty to get 20 hours worth.