ThreeDJ16

?? Nator, did your grill come through FL or CA? How long was the process from order till it arrives? Thanks, -=Jasen=-

!!!! Hey Majestik, if your dome tape starts to give you problems, a hose clamp of appropriate size should do the trick for you. -=Jasen=-

Re: Got an(nother) idea Since were going for the gold here, how about a built in ignitor too? -=Jasen=-

Hmm! Curly, I think your a few decades off there! Maybe that is what's wrong with you? -=Jasen=-

Cool - thanks! I think it is a general consensus that we suck at typing up messages and thereby need the edit or delete ability to hide our forum skill shortcomings!! Thanks, -=Jasen=-

Hey Dennis! I know, I know, what the hell does Jasen want now - he's only asked a zillion questions - hehe. Well, a couple more. Since the burner sit directly in the path of falling ashes going into the ash pit, is it a problem with the burner clogging up? Also, since the ash pit sits level with the draft door, those that cause issues with the burner? Does the ash pit has to be cleaned frequently due to being level with draft door? Thanks, -=Jasen=-

Re: Report: Cooking on an Ancient Kamado

I know I have asked for this before, but hey, how about all of you who have them already post some pics of the KK at your homes! I can recall only about two KKs in home photos on this forum. -=Jasen=-

More Suggestions! I was thinking a bit more about incorporating the low airflow feature into the burner. It would seem to me that about all that would be needed for this part is to add a small tab on one of the movable fins (for adjusting) since the knob would be gone and replaced with the burner input. -=Jasen=- PS - also bumping this valve link back up - http://qicaivalve.en.alibaba.com/produc ... Valve.html.

Poll? I just noticed that some areas allow polls where others do not. I wanted to create a poll as to who might be interested in side table and whether they should be square or contoured. -=Jasen=-

Yo Dennis! How about this one - the company seems able to manufacture the valve in about any inlet/outlet configuration you need. All it needs is a knob, and I am sure they sell one or you could come up with a nice stainless one. http://qicaivalve.en.alibaba.com/produc ... Valve.html -=Jasen=-

I got a question, why do some subject areas of the forum have different settings then others? I have noticed that some sections let you delete your post but not edit, other sections let you edit but not delete and others you can do both? Just curious if there was a reason, just an oversight or am I just going crazy? -=Jasen=-

Re: Once again.. Common sense solution.. Maybe I should have chosen a different word to describe, but the threads are course, which means less turns to move it up and down - exactly like you said. And while I agree that it is not part of a calibrated airflow system, does it not provide precise temperature control along with the lower airflow feature? Or is the low airflow control feature used solely for minor temp adjustments? Just asking for my own info as I don't know - not trying to be facetious about it in any way (hard to type things and still express intent without it being taken the wrong way). -=Jasen=- Guess I was having a Gerard day - hehe.

Happy BDAY! Happy BDay and enjoy a good beer! After all, " Beer is proof God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin -=Jasen=-

Hehe I should have expected that one! -=Jasen=-

My guess is that he eliminates this by using acme threads. They are large and roomy threads that should allow for the thermal expansion. I will say that I have galled many a nut or bolt (standard threads) due to the thermal expansion after welding on them as you have to be quick (but were talking loads more heat). Acme threads are very strong threads, but they are also very course. It could make adjusting the top damper not as precise. Curious what Dennis says about this. -=Jasen=-

Maybe it is possible that he (RJ) switched to a larger bar stock in his later lumpsavers? While mine looks like hell, it is still solid. -=Jasen=-

I do not think we will ever have to worry about burning out Dennis's coal basket. Just my opinion, but at the rate it would corrode, it would seem to me that it should last as long as the grill. Porkchop just asked if it would rust - and I think yes it will certainly corrode. But not where we would ever care. I still have a carbon steel basket and I cannot see needing a new ones for many years. -=Jasen=-

Yup! Since I do not have a stainless coal basket, I will have to let Dennis answer that for sure. But what dealings I have had with stainless in the fire area is any metal is gonna degrade in those conditions. I mean, you are talking a couple thousand degrees heat and plenty of caustic ash. Stainless might make it last longer, but size of the metal would seem to be the biggest benefit in a coal basket. My 2cents! -=Jasen=-

Re: Gallery Yeah sweet! Wort is unfermented beer.

Gallery Here ya go Porkchop! Opps, I thought you said gallery - my bad! -=Jasen=- PS - obviously I could give a crap about carbon contamination at home (looking at the photos below). But in reality, it would take way more than my lifetime for corrosion from the metal stand to affect the beer being brewed inside (that and the keg has a huge lip at the bottom which lifts the vessel completely away from the carbon). I just hated looking at rust all over the sides of the kegs; so I had to clean that up. Oh and there is no corrosion on the inside where it counts. It ain't purdy, but man it does a good job. Oh yeah, I did not have a plasma, water cutter or laser - so yeah it was a pain. Ah, cool you sweet nector known as wort! This is an old photo of the wine press, I have added a stand to it and a cover. Nobody tell the revenuers - ok - hehe -

Re: Stainless quality... Hmm, sounds vaguely familiar? hehe It also increases it's shear strength while reducing it's tensil strength. I like to call it gooey metal. Tuff as hell to cut through unless you have a plasma, water cutter, laser or a lot of patients and determination. I completely agree. At my work, we must keep all stainless segregated and also the rack they are placed on has to be made of stainless or at least have stainless sleeves. We have to be cognisant of any materials that come in contact with the stainless: fasteners, cleaning / grinding devices and chemical agents. Chlorides will cause stainless to pit and be subject to corrosion too (ie: certain types of tape). One more interesting carbon contamination from personal experience; even though it made perfect since afterward (hind sight is 20/20), I had some stainless kegs I converted to brew kettles that I took to get sand blasted (thank God just the outside). Well after I started using them, I noticed rust everywhere. Not thinking about this fact, the weld shop uses their blaster for every type of metal and the blaster uses a frit reclaimer - DUH! That was a lot of work fixing. -=Jasen=-

FYI One of the problems that plague anyone who uses SS is carbon contamination. All it takes is to use a carbon steel brush wheel to clean up a weld, a little moisture and rust will develop real quick (although it is just surface rust). A simple cleaning with the proper brush and the problem is solved. I had problems with mine on the very same issue. As you mentioned, there are also different grade of stainless with varying amounts of nickel added to it to give the stainless steel it's stainless properties. One quick magnet test will tell you if it is lower grade stainless as it is magnetic whereas higher nickel stainless the magnet will fall right off. But this is not a quality check as they are made different for strength reasons. Maybe cheap quality made stainless steel was an issue for some on the other grill? My issue was simple; they were clueless about carbon contamination and obviously welding after having to patch up some of their mess (another story there). There were other properties of stainless they were uninformed of too. For example: high coefficient of thermal expansion (almost double that of carbon steel); they allowed 1/4 round grill bars to extend over the outer support which jammed into the side walls causing the bars to bend wildly and lock the grill grate in place till it cooled. But that was a simple fix of grinding them down. -=Jasen=-

!! Yeah, it must be a seriously strong spring. That is one huge mass on the long side of a cantilever and a small spring on the short. I would hate to have to do the work it does. Thanks for the info, -=Jasen=-