ThreeDJ16

Bob, not sure about Lowes, but 1/8"Male NPT to 3/8" flare fitting are available and would save you several connections (they even make them in a 90 degree) and reduce the strain on that fragile valve joint. Do yourself a favor, be very, very careful threading that into the valve. The valve opening is much more shallow than a normal pipe thread fitting. If you had a fitting with a matching shallow thread and a shoulder, the joint would be strong. Use some Loctite and do not over tighten as those threads will pull out super easy (trust me). viewtopic.php?t=1515 -=Jasen=-

I agree, looks like you have the correct connector. -=Jasen=-

Re: Thread mismatch on gas burner - line? Unless Dennis has changed something, the end coming out of his valve should be a 3/8 male flared connection. The link you sent is listing two different connections for the same end. At the top, it calls the 3/8" end FNPT which is female national pipe thread or taper (depending on who you ask) and in the bottom description it says there is a 3/8 female flare connection. Look in the 3/8 end of your hose and see if there is a steep taper in the bottom (like pic below). If so, snap a pic of the end on the KK valve. If the bottom is flat, then you will either have to change out Dennis' fitting or get a new hose. -=Jasen=- Does the male end on your valve look like this? National Pipe Thread is flat on the ends.

I have something similar. But instead of making an entire separate unit, I just have a basket that fits in the EZQue cradle. Cheaper that way too. I use it for roasting peppers. -=Jasen=-

Re: BBQ Guru et al... They are quite simple. The folks that have trouble with them are generally trying to over think the process. Basic rule is let the Guru do the work....meaning close off all sources of draft other than the Guru fan (3/4 open on the fan damper works for me) and a tiny amount of top damper for air escape (1/8 or less - just barely off the seat). Then, set it and forget it. I have a Guru hints and tips in the KK411 section. When people have trouble using the Guru, most of the time is due to natural draft coming in and causing the Guru to lose control. So no curve! Few simple tips and you'll have no issues with powered draft! -=Jasen=-

Re: BBQ Guru et al... Most will say the KK does not need one. But most will also say Guru gives piece of mind for overnight cooks. Probably close to 50/50 KK & Guru/Stoker owners. Personally I love the Procom! Ultimate lazy cooks toy. -=Jasen=-

I think the only time mine was used was when I first got the grill and just left it in there through a couple of cooks. So really, it was never used for the intended purpose. Since then it has just sat in my shed collecting dust. Might salvage it for some other project. Dennis, I changed your post to a vote to get a quick idea of what folks think. -=Jasen=-

Re: Bark. Bark.. It's an obsession.. Remember now, a lot of my seasoning changes have occurred at the same time as switching cooking methods. My higher temps and heat diffuser also cause you to look at what you are using for season. The bark bits can turn burnt bits really quick.....so that hastened some of my change. That and I have been trying to get back to basics for the region in which I live. But it is all good! Love them both, just have a favorite this month....hehe! Experimentation is what makes this hobby great....and I rarely have an inedible experiment! -=Jasen=-

Opposite Side Of The Coin! BTW, nice lookin' ribs. Just my opinion, but I have been going in the opposite direction from thick dark bark. My last several cooks, I have omitted the sugar or anything that forms a heavy dark crust. Finding now that my preference is for a more simple rub that lets the meat flavor be prevalent. Anyway, this again is part of the fun of que and figuring out your own thing! viewtopic.php?t=2208 -=Jasen=-

Re: How long for an 8lb Pork Butt Bone-In Might wanna drop your temp if your going direct. The meat starts to get pretty crispy and dry over the longer period of cooking a butt. Indirect, that butt would probably take around 12 hours to reach 190 internal. But going direct, it should cut it by several hours. Just keep a close check after at least 6 hours. BTW, since you seem to like a more direct style cooking, might wanna check out this thread. http://www.komodokamado.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2194 -=Jasen=-

Here is a general guide ( http://www.komodokamado.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1710 ) that stays at the top of the cooking general section. Also, the amount of temp increase you will get after removing from grill will directly relate to the mass of the meat and where you place it afterwards (in foil, on counter, air temp...etc). So nobody can give you a hard fast rule (except use a thermometer if it is critical to you). As long as you know it will increase and obviously a whole boston butt will go longer than a steak or that foiling verses not foiling will increase it too, your good to go. The fun part is just experimenting on your own! Have fun! -=Jasen=-

Thanks, but they are not my pics! We have not had snow like that in Augusta, Ga since around 1973. Anyway, those are posted for scouterpf. -=Jasen=-

Here ya go!

Probably not....but I don't use the sear grill in place with the rotis anyway. I think the handles would already interfere with the rotis...not sure? Hope to make this thing in the next couple weeks. All I want is something very simple to park some almost finished meats. -=Jasen=-

Well he mentions a #7. So is he asking how to dismantle a kamado #7 or a komodokamado classic/OBT? In the case of the first one, most of our experience was with them falling apart on their own...hehe. Actually I think you just pretty much unbolt it, release the lid assist spring tubes and lift the lid off. But I would search their forum for a realignment procedure. If it is the second, as Trish mentions, their is a disassembly thread here somewhere. I will try and find it. -=Jasen=- Here is the KK lid removal procedure: viewtopic.php?t=523

The way I understand it, Fred was the one handling the Procom update. Due to his stroke, we may not see that update for a while. -=Jasen=-

I will try to contact him one day this week and see if maybe they can solve the issue. -=Jasen=- Got in touch with Bob this week about having an inducer tube specifically for the KomodoKamado. It has been a big question around here for quite some time, and having one for the KK would make the decision so much easier. Said he would work on it and try to get it added to their web site. I recommended a 1-1/2" straight tube that you can silicone in place (did ask for some grooves around its circumference for better adhesion...if practical). That size fits easily within the existing port from Dennis and leaves a bit of room at the back. That way you can build up silicone (at the rear of the port) to the lip of the inducer tube for more back support when pushing in the fan. They still have the 4" bulkhead available for anyone not wishing to silicone. So we will see. Here is a pic of the one I used. -=Jasen=-

It happens! -=Jasen=-

Wow! Great post Sanny! Thanks for all that info. I have been thinking about an instant read thermometer for when I don't use the Guru. Now I don't have to look everywhere for the info.....cool! -=Jasen=-

I prefer the sear grill in the flames......direct. -=Jasen=-

Re: New Grill Accessory Idea. I guess you did not read the post...eh? -=Jasen=-

Actually it would not be further away. The top handles on the sear grill already come up to the bottom of the main grill (hard to tell in pics). What you are saying would give more shelf space, but again, I have enough grills grates to keep up with already. I bet most other people don't won't another extra one either. -=Jasen=-

Not sure I follow? Make another main grill except only half? Really you could probably already get away with that using the existing main grill and opening the door. But you would need long tongs to get at the sear grill. But anyway, what I am looking for is not having another extra grill grate or accessory to keep up with. I think integrating it into an existing accessory is the way to go. This design also does not detract from any of the existing function of the sear/upper grill either. Keep it simple! -=Jasen=-

Not sure about anyone else, but I really use the sear grill a lot....pretty much it is either low and slow on the main or the sear grill is in use. So anyway, it would be nice to have a place to move the food items almost ready while the other continues to cook. Right now, I try to move them off to the side, but once the fire spreads, there is really not to many areas on the sear grill to move the food that is not engulfed in flame. So, basically I want a small shelf. The trick is, I don't want another accessory to keep up with, and want this simple as possible. Why not make it an attachment on the existing sear grill. Not sure if the legs in this pic depict the correct height (this was a prototype pic from Dennis when he first made the sear grill). The sear grill legs (or handles...whatever you want to call them) actually rise to just below the main grill. This is the perfect height to park some foods almost done while you finish searing others. The mod I show below is an integral part of the sear/upper grill so nothing to loose or extra to keep up with. It changes nothing about the function of the sear or upper grill or no dimension change that would cause interference with the lid. The runners need to either be level with the handle extension (preferred) or fall below it (from sear grill perspective) to prevent them from protruding into the main grill while it is an upper grill. Anyway, whaddaya think? As soon as time prevails, I am gonna try to mod mine. Maybe Dennis might come up with something in the mean time? -=Jasen=-

I will try to contact him one day this week and see if maybe they can solve the issue. -=Jasen=-