johnnyboy Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 I've learned Pam spray on oil after awhile will build up a layer of residue that hardens over time, thus gunking up damper threads and draft door tubes. I've found olive oil to work much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 I recommend you avoid any cooking oils to lube anything. Pam has its own special problems, but any vegetable oil will eventually go rancid. Use pharmaceutical grade mineral oil instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyboy Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Cooking Oil versus PAM type spray I noticed in the "K11 - Things not to do" thread, a contradiction to my suggestion to using cooking oil. Oil going rancid concerns me. I have lots of cast iron cooking pans, and take pride in seasoning them. Part of which means a light coat of cooking oil is re-applied after they're washed (without soap I might add). Then left to sit (ventilated, paper towell folded 4-5 times for thickness is placed between lid and matching pan to allow air circulation) until next time. May I ask, how does that not go rancid? Or does it, and the heat kills it? I've been doing this for years, and can honestly say I've never been sick from anything coming off the K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fetzervalve Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Re: Cooking Oil versus PAM type spray ....I've never been sick from anything coming off the K. Even the tile?? I couldn't resist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanny Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Part of the issue, Johnnyboydeer, is the breakdown of the oils. They break down in heat, and turn to glop. Different vegetable oils have different temps. That's why some oils are good for deep frying, and others not. Have you ever felt the sticky on a cookie tray after using PAM on it? Hard to rub that off. For lubing your cooker, an oil that doesn't turn to glop is best. Vegetable oil can't stand up to the temps that a cooker generates, so the oil doesn't get sticky and freeze your damper or something. For your cast iron, vegetable oil works fine. If you were to put your frypan in a bonfire, you'd probably burn off all the seasoning. The temps are too high. But part of what is happening under normal circumstances is the oil is making a coating on the iron to protect it. It's no longer slippery grease (or else you could just wipe it off). The oil actually bonds to the metal surface. Even so, it's recommended that for seasoning you use oils that are high in saturated fats, and therefore less likely to become rancid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyboy Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Re: Cooking Oil versus PAM type spray ....I've never been sick from anything coming off the K. Even the tile?? I couldn't resist. Good one Fetzervalve!!!! I got to hand it to you... I wrote that not thinking of mental anguish being a sickness. Adding lost tile to the sick regime, then heck yes, made me sick a lot!!!! Lost my mind many times.... even made me say stuff I didn't need to. I'll remember the reminder Fetz; keep your guard up Bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyboy Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Part of the issue' date=' Johnnyboydeer.[/quote'] Sannydear, are you putting antlers on me? Have you ever felt the sticky on a cookie tray after using PAM on it? Hard to rub that off. Yes, dear... Vegetable oil can't stand up to the temps that a cooker generates' date=' so the oil doesn't get sticky and freeze your damper or something. [/quote'] Understand, but it seems to work much better than the sprays (PAM specifically in my case). I oiled (Olive oil) my top damper threads once, during break-in, and it still spins great like there's oil on it. I haven't looked. Same with the draft door. I also use it to season my grills. For your cast iron' date=' vegetable oil works fine. If you were to put your frypan in a bonfire, you'd probably burn off all the seasoning. The temps are too high. But part of what is happening under normal circumstances is the oil is making a coating on the iron to protect it. It's no longer slippery grease (or else you could just wipe it off). The oil actually bonds to the metal surface..[/quote'] Do I need to remove my suggestion in the 411 section? I don't want to suggest the idea if it's incorrect? Even so' date=' it's recommended that for seasoning you use oils that are high in saturated fats, and therefore less likely to become rancid.[/quote'] What would that type oil be? I know, mineral oil, right? In fact, that's what I use to oil my cutting block. I wouldn't be opposed to putting it on my grill parts. Would mineral oil work for keeping my cast iron seasoned? I'm not being silly, serious. Thanks mucho Sanny!!! Appreciate your explaining it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkline01 Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 I use anti-seize compound. I use such a small amount that the chance of it getting on any food is not worth worrying about...got a better chance of getting attacked by a Great White shark in my pool!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duk Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 I used this http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4JB57 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkline01 Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 I used this http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4JB57 That is cheating! I like living on the edge and using the same stuff I use on engine bolts. I'm wild like that....always living on the edge. Ya know...handling chicken with my bare hands! Using regular soap instead of anti-bacterial! Call me "Reckless"!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sanny Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Sannydear' date=' are you putting antlers on me? [/quote'] Even so' date=' it's recommended that for seasoning you use oils that are high in saturated fats, and therefore less likely to become rancid.[/quote'] What would that type oil be? I know, mineral oil, right? In fact, that's what I use to oil my cutting block. I wouldn't be opposed to putting it on my grill parts. Would mineral oil work for keeping my cast iron seasoned? I'm not being silly, serious. Some of the articles I've read suggest lard, hydrogenated cooking oils such as Crisco, and palm or coconut oil. They don't go rancid too easily. I do confess, I use plain old corn oil or olive oil on my cast iron. Go figger. lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyboy Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Some of the articles I've read suggest lard, hydrogenated cooking oils such as Crisco, and palm or coconut oil. They don't go rancid too easily. I do confess, I use plain old corn oil or olive oil on my cast iron. Go figger. lol. Yup, Yup, that's me too! You're the BEST Sanny at finding/using those cool Emoticons!!!! Who else would have ever thought to look for a "Johnnyboydeer" No one. See told ya, you're the bomb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeDJ16 Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 People have used animal fats to season cast iron for as long as they have been around. While it does go rancid if you leave a big globs on the pan, seasoning binds it to the metals and it gets heated when used. For example where not to use it, absolutely don't use vegetable or animal oils on a butchers block, it will turn rancid there for sure. Just curious, has anyone really needed anything on the KK threads on the damper? After over a year of very heavy use, I have used nothing on my threads. I can still easily spin it closed with a flick of the top. Now there has been times when the top gasket has made the top damper a little harder to open. That was due to over tightening on the warm soft gasket and cold harder gasket didn't want to release (and nothing to do with threads). I would not recommend putting any kind of oil product on the bottom damper slides. You are just asking for more headache. Oil attracts dirt and ash to the surface which is what is the bottom of the grill is filled with. It would be wiser to thoroughly clean the guide rods and adjust them if necessary. I have never had a need to add any form of lubricants to the grill guides. Only thing in my grill that gets any oiling is the grill grates and that is to aid with cleaning and sticking. -=Jasen=- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeDJ16 Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Decided to move all the associated posts out and into their own thread. Actually the "KK Things Not To Do" thread was meant to be a safety thread (if you read the first post) and has wondered from the original intent. -=Jasen=- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firemonkey Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 I would not recommend putting any kind of oil product on the bottom damper slides. You are just asking for more headache. Oil attracts dirt and ash to the surface which is what is the bottom of the grill is filled with. It would be wiser to thoroughly clean the guide rods and adjust them if necessary. I never needed to adjust mine until last weekend when I tightened the small nuts on the back side. Somehow they worked loose and my rods had a bunch of play in them. After tightening, the alignment made them bind up when they were inserted. I cleaned the rods, sprayed them with silicone lubricant spray, wiped them with a paper towel and now all is good as new. Sometimes, you need a little more than cleaning. BTW, never had to touch the damper top...that thing is still smooth as silk, it almost spins *too* freely, and I use my KK several times a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeDJ16 Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 . I cleaned the rods' date=' sprayed them with silicone lubricant spray, wiped them with a paper towel and now all is good as new. Sometimes, you need a little more than cleaning.[/quote'] While it maybe good as new now, the oil will cause the ash and dirt to stick to the SS over time. So in the long run, it will make matters worse. Maybe you just need more alignment adjustments. As stated, just my recommendation. -=Jasen=- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyboy Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 DJ, I think you and FM have hit on something. Not to oil the damper threads. I like the idea of not oiling at all. However, what we have to remember is KK is not K (some of us come as remnants from the K world, and we appreciate being here). Meaning KK has stainless threads (if I remember correct) whereas the K has iron threads. Okay, maybe not iron, but steel then, definitely not SS. I don't remember exactly why I oiled threads the first time; seems to me the they became hard to turn. I thought it was like a creosote that built up, but maybe being combo'd with rust was the real problem. Makes sense you wouldn't have that problem on the KK stainless rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeDJ16 Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 I like the idea of not oiling at all. However, what we have to remember is KK is not K (some of us come as remnants from the K world, and we appreciate being here). Actually JB, my post specifies KK and also this is the KK411 section of the forum. However, if someone asks a specific non KK question, there would be no problem answering it. But in general, this section was created specifically so KK users could ask question about their grill or general KK information given. Thanks, -=Jasen=- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyboy Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Jasen, sorry for including you in my error, by saying we. Wasn't intentional what so ever. Again, there are times "I" forget the differences (I stand corrected saying "we have to remember"), by relating to what I have, and my forgetfullness. My apology. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeDJ16 Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Jasen, sorry for including you in my error, by saying we. Wasn't intentional what so ever. Again, there are times "I" forget the differences (I stand corrected saying "sometimes we forget"), by relating to what I have, and my forgetfullness. My apology. Nothing to apologize for.....I simply pointed out facts about this section's and/or my post's intent. -=Jasen=- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
