Amphoran Posted July 5, 2010 Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 The climate Johnnyboy refers to is just west of the mountains in Washington and Oregon. In Seattle, this describes the situation from November to May. If the air is almost always (super)saturated, circulating it doesn't help. Fungi need only a certain level of available moisture, and that level definitely builds up in the ceramic. As an example, when I first opened the KK after its first Winter, the lid would only open about halfway. After two or three cooks, it opened fully again - several pounds of water indicated, and just in the lid! What I've found works best is to seal it up with a cannister of dessicant inside. Also, as several have suggested, doing a good hot cook to burn up any organics in the cooker (deny a food supply) before buttening things up. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firemonkey Posted July 5, 2010 Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 My original KK kad the same thing happen after a period of non-use during the Summer, when it storms every afternoon here in FL. The lid got so heavy it wouldnt open up more than an inch or two on its own. For what its worth, the new KK, with the grout that doesnt need sealed, has never had that problem. If you have the old grout, and live in a wet climate, make sure you at least seal it regularly, or use a cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oddlycalm Posted July 5, 2010 Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 Easily and inexpensively solved. I'm in Portland and got the predictable mold after buying a #7 K back in 2004. I had Koveroo make me a Koveroos III permeable Tyvek double layer cover in a neutral beige. Light as a feather yet it's held up for years now. Current price including storage bag is $60 USD. Problem solved. The Koveroo folks are easy to work with. Make sure to verify the dimensions will fit your KK. http://store.koverroos.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=K&Category_Code=C_GRILL_KETT oc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnoble Posted September 15, 2010 Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 mold in kk I also live in the pacific northwest. Dessicant works to keep things dry, but also, at marina stores, one can buy a super low watt "heater" that basically just keeps the air moving around. We stick a couple in our boats, but one in the kk would be good for the machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mguerra Posted September 15, 2010 Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 Do what Cook says, stick a low watt light bulb in there and just crack a vent. In fact running the extension cable in will require a cracked opening. You could go through the Guru vent, the ash door or the gas door. Cheap, simple, effective. A clamp lamp or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gooffy140 Posted December 1, 2012 Report Share Posted December 1, 2012 Re: excessive moisture and mold inside Kamado Sorry to resurrect such an old thread, But with noobs entering all the time I figured I'd throw my 2 cents in also. Any good sporting goods store will carry "Golden Rod" a similar gun safe dehumidifier. I think one of those would be ideal for this .situation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siu Posted May 27, 2023 Report Share Posted May 27, 2023 Hi all I found my Komodo filled with mold also yesterday and followed the suggestion of burning charcoal all night at 350. This am it doesn’t smell like it did yesterday but not sure if this is still mold or just discoloration. is it safe to cook on or should I try to clean it with a solution or burn it at higher temps? Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5698k Posted May 27, 2023 Report Share Posted May 27, 2023 I wouldn’t use any cleaner, just maybe scrape it some. When I do a clean burn, I like to see at least 500°F, but 350° should do it. You’re probably just seeing some residual stain. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisLinkletter Posted May 27, 2023 Report Share Posted May 27, 2023 I get this issue here in Bali also.. The secret is after the fire is out, you need to open the damper top and the big side of the lower draft door to let hot, humid air escape and not condense on the inside of your grill at night. I suggest getting a bucket half full of water and carefully remove the spores with a damp sponge rinsing every wipe to remove the spores.. I also suggest using a face mask to prevent breathing in those spores.. Many spores are not killed by grilling temps.. So spend the time and carefully remove as much as possible. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siu Posted May 27, 2023 Report Share Posted May 27, 2023 Is it ok to use apple cider vinegar on the interior surface? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AAAsh Posted December 13, 2023 Report Share Posted December 13, 2023 I am in Singapore and live directly on the ocean, so humidity is crazy. I leave the top and bottom vents open and don't use a cover. I also try and heat the grill up at the end of any cook. For example, if I do a low and slow session, I will just open the vents up afterwards for an hour or so and bring it up to 500f before shutting everything down. That burns off any gunk. I also have a gas Weber that is mainly used as a prep bench now I have my KK. However, the local weber dealer suggested that I not cover it to avoid locking in humidity. Since I have been following his advice, I have had almost no issues with corrosion despite being so close to the ocean. Also, my other tip to avoid corrosion/rust on exterior surfaces is CorrosionX. I use it on everything around the house and it is amazing. The other good option is Lanolin based sprays (which are also food safe) but don't last as long as CX. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...