PARESH65 Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 Hello All, I've had my Komodo since April of 2007. The first season was awesome cooking and the Komodo cooked superbly. I live in chicago and coming out of winter 2008 I noticed a little mold growing inside the Kamado and all over the grills. Also had a lot of moisture inside. I cleaned up the inside and fired it up for a while to get the moisture out. That season it seemed to have taken longer for the Komodo to get upto tempreature. Coming out of winter 2009 there was considerbly more mold all over the inside and grills with even more moisture. Took a long time to burn off the moisture and all last summer it seems that i had an even harder time getting it up tp tempreature. Never was able to get it as hot as the first year. This spring the mold was back just as bad and very wet inside. I attempted to do a cook but after burning coal with the air inlet wide open for over three hours, the Komodo would heat up past 300. I use a cover through the winter. Is the mold and moisturte normal? Why is it harder to get the kamado warmed up? I'm having a hard time.......can anyone help please............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mguerra Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 moisture This is one for Dennis to answer, but a few remarks: Cook on it all year, if you can stand to go outside to start it, tend it, and so on. If not, try using a desiccant. Here's one: http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/920 ... de=FROOGLE There are many other sources out there for these bags. It's possible that the ceramic may absorb quite a bit of moisture over the long out of use period and that may take a lot longer to vaporize out than just a single hot fire. Again, this is one for Dennis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duk Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 I had the same problem with my POSK---never had it with my KK--same conditions and usage--my POSK seemed to suck the water like a sponge if it rained---NEVER happened with my KK from Dennis- Just my 2 c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amphoran Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 I live in Seattle, where the Winters are very, very wet, and have that same problem if I don't use the KK for a significant time. I've taken to keeping a container of Dri-Z-Air (a dessicant) inside the KK during the winter. That helps a lot. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruzmisl Posted June 23, 2010 Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 Hmm, I live on a similar latitude and have never had that problem. I cook all year though. I'm surprised that it absorbs so much moisture even when covered. Anyway, be sure the ashes are all cleaned out and also make sure your fuel is dry too. If the KK has so much moisture your fuel will certainly absorb the moisture which will in turn decrease temps and give a slow burn. I would get some fresh lump, light it up and pull the draft door open a bit and open the damper all the way. Once the temps reached 300 or so I'd adjust the draft door/damper to make certain the temps don't get out of hand. Then I'd just let it burn for hours and hours to let the moisture burn off. You don't want a lot of high heat since the moisture will create fissures in the grout as the steam tries to escape. After 8 hours of those temps I'd bump it up to try and torch the mold inside the cooker and kill it. After that try the dessicant on the interior to prevent it from happening again. My 2 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amphoran Posted June 23, 2010 Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 Latitude doesn't mean much; Chicago is at the same latitude as Rome... What matters in my environment is 90 straight days of constant light rain and 100% humidity with temperatures in the thirties and forties, and the fact that most of my cooks are low and slow, which maintains a high-moisture environment inside the kooker. I've started doing more high temp cooks in the summer to help dry it out, but the winters here are really not that conducive to cooking in it unless you have a roof over it, which I don't. An hour at 500 deg will certainly clean burn off most anything that the mold might grow on, and kill the spores that are inside. given the winter, though, the container of Calcium chloride (Dri-Z-Air is the most common brand in these parts) really really helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amphoran Posted June 23, 2010 Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 I would agree that part of Paresh65's problem could well be damp charcoal. A lot of the heat is wasted evaporating water from the coal, so that you don't get the temps you would expect to. I've never found that just the cooker itself being damp had an effect that lasted beyond the first hour or two. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisLinkletter Posted June 23, 2010 Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 If you are having problems getting to temp there are only a few factors.. One your charcoal might be less than dry also.. This will slow things down greatly and can be determined by feeling the exhaust for moisture/steam.. Two fuel and airflow.. You might just need to light more charcoal.. If things are really damp in there as this moisture turns to vapor this instant high humidity could also hinder things from taking off.. This is a perfect time to use my favorite BBQ accessory.. The cheapo hairdryer.. using one guarantees the charcoal you do have burning will get up to high enough temps to ignite all the charcoal around it.. once you have the entire bowl of charcoal burning this will absolutely vaporize any moisture you have in your Komodo. It might also be a good idea to do one hot cook before retiring your KK for the winter season.. this will burn off any drippings that are the nutrients for that mold growing in there.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruzmisl Posted June 23, 2010 Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 Latitude doesn't mean much; Chicago is at the same latitude as Rome... Means a lot to me. I'm in Detroit. Chicago and Detroit weather patterns are very similar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PARESH65 Posted June 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 Thank you everyone for the suggestions! This is why I love this forum! Very fortunate to have this. I will try all of your suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amphoran Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Chicago and Detroit are also in the middle of the continent, which is the important factor in weather/climate patterns. What I should have said is that latitude ALONE doesn't mean much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruzmisl Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rorkin Posted July 3, 2010 Report Share Posted July 3, 2010 First chance to use the KK this year and I too opened it up and found quite a bit of mold.. Mine is about 200 feet from the Chesapeake Bay so I have no doubt where the moisture came from. Am doing a long empty burn to work out the moisture if absorbed by the refractory. Keeping the heat down to 350. I am sure the temp will take care of the mold.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rorkin Posted July 4, 2010 Report Share Posted July 4, 2010 By this AM everything seems as good as new.. The mold/moisture seemed to impart a smell but all seems to have baked out. Put in a half basket and ran till it quit at about 350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan Posted July 4, 2010 Report Share Posted July 4, 2010 A 40 watt bulb in the "Well House" stopped freezing problems. Would it work for this? Unit designed to contain moisture = moist tender product. Guess it keeps on tickin when we are not lickin. Cook more chicken... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rorkin Posted July 4, 2010 Report Share Posted July 4, 2010 I suspect that a little high heat at end of season would get rid of organics but that keeping vent and ash door open during longer periods of non-use woulld let air to circulate through the unit and moderate the problem .. for what its worth A 40 watt bulb in the "Well House" stopped freezing problems. Would it work for this? Unit designed to contain moisture = moist tender product. Guess it keeps on tickin when we are not lickin. Cook more chicken... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firemonkey Posted July 4, 2010 Report Share Posted July 4, 2010 My POSK was always moldy inside because I never used it after KK came. I opened the top damper about 1/4 inch instead of keeping it sealed tight and never had any more mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T Rex Posted July 4, 2010 Report Share Posted July 4, 2010 I keep a Stor-dry unit in the boat all winter and never a problem. These are little units that run on 75 watts and basically just dry out the air. I would think it would work great in a KK. Keeps my cuddy and cabin dry all winter, never any mold. T Rex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyboy Posted July 5, 2010 Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 My POSK was always moldy inside because I never used it after KK came. I opened the top damper about 1/4 inch instead of keeping it sealed tight and never had any more mold. Thanks for suggesting/confirming the venting idea FM!!! I've been suggesting that to customers but haven't been able to prove it. I'm still worried about the honorable folks in the North, especially in Oregon/Wa areas where they're essentially venting saturated air. Their air can go months without ever drying!! Does anyone know if stagnent wet air promotes mold growth over recirculating wet air? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rorkin Posted July 5, 2010 Report Share Posted July 5, 2010 Don't have any evidence but given the choice I would go with recirculating wet air. I Know that some areas are very moist a lot of the time but I bet that even so, there are periods where the air can absorb more moisture thus the benefit of circulating air. I live 200 feet from a body of water but humidity levels do drop below 50% with dry air masses and proper temperature Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
