Poochie Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 This is what the teak shelf looked like the day I received my Komodo This is after one complete application (2 coats) of Watco Teak Oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckreef Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Looks nice. They look lighter in color after the application or is that just the different lighting between the two pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CeramicChef Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 I personally think the teak shelves are the perfect accompaniment to the KK. Yes, they are teak, and teak has to be maintained, but they are a real statement in and of themselves! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjs Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 I like what you have done. I love teak, it is the ideal wood for outside. I also love a hand-rubbed oil finish on wood, I applied an oil with a high UV component to my side tables (since it does not come into direct contact with any food I am preparing). I also really appreciate how the shelves are built; just turn them over and look at the construction method, no shortcuts here—these babies are notched and pinned—built to last. This is craftsmanship at its' finest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poochie Posted September 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Looks nice. They look lighter in color after the application or is that just the different lighting between the two pictures? The type of lighting is pretty much the same, the angle of the lighting is different. The teak oil brought out the lighter colors in the wood. It seems that it makes a shine that goes deep into the teak. Hard to explain, but you'd see the difference right away. Mine will never get wet or be in direct sunlight, but they'd probably still turn that silver color if I didn't treat them. The can of teak oil was only around 8.50 and it'll last for years. I'll only apply it twice a year and I'll bet the can lasts at least 6 to 8 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisLinkletter Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Hi Poochie.. I suggest you using scotchbrite and remove any dried oil that is on the surface of your wood.. You will be able to get rid of that bit lumpy polyurethane /closed pore look and still get the protection you want. Oil finishes are "in the wood" not "on the wood" finishes. More times than not.. just like you did, people put the oil on the wood and let it dry/harden.. I know this is how it was used on your tables because it looks shiny and a bit plastic-y. What you want to do is to put the oil on and rub it into the wood for 10-15 minutes and then completely wipe it as clean as possible.. the oil that has been absorbed into the wood will dry (actually polymerize) and become a protective barrier "inside" the wood. "On the wood" finishes include polyurethanes and varnishes.. Completely different look and these "on the wood" finishes can become discolored and scratched up .. you also loose the wood feel. We seal the teak with polymerized tung oil and give the wood a bit of sheen with liquid silicone. As always please feel free to call for more information.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 So what product can I use here that I can get local Dennis. I want them to look like the day they did when they leave the factory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poochie Posted September 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 I may just let the finish wear down and when the time comes reapply it the right way. I have some fine sandpaper that would probably knock that shine off too. Back to the drawing board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Is this good Dennis??? http://m.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-1-qt-Tung-Oil-Finish-67500/100178851 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 And liquid silicone how does that differ from a spray good grade silicone??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisLinkletter Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 I may just let the finish wear down and when the time comes reapply it the right way. I have some fine sandpaper that would probably knock that shine off too. Back to the drawing board. The layer of polymerized/hardened oil is not very hard or durable compared to polyurethanes and varnishes. The inevitable micro scratches will give it a bit of a white fogginess.. Sandpaper will immediately fill and clog.. scotchbrite will not and easily remove excess material. Is this good Dennis??? http://m.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-1-qt-Tung-Oil-Finish-67500/100178851 I'm sure it's fine.. And liquid silicone how does that differ from a spray good grade silicone??? Exactly the same.. I have it in stock in LA too.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CeramicChef Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Dennis was gracious enough to send me a tube of the liquid silicone. It's the BOMB diggity of finishes. I highly recommend it for preserving your teak side tables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bosco Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Does it last a long time CC??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CeramicChef Posted September 3, 2015 Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 So far, so good! It's only been about 6 months, but it's still looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
