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ThreeDJ16

Gas Burner Ideas?

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Well my high pressure regulator is working at 10 psi

Do you have a gauge on it or something? Just curious as I use a gauge on one of my high pressure regulators and at 10 PSI I have close to a 1 foot flame (that is way over 20 times the operating pressure for a LP burner as 27.68"H2O = 1 PSI). Granted mine was with a high pressure burner which has a smaller orifice; I would have still thought to have seen a much larger flame at 10 PSI.

Another question, does a regulator have any safety benefits to it or is it simply to lower the pressure to make certain devices work properly? What would happen if you connected to tank without a regulator?

Well, it is not safe without one, though I have seen some yahoos without them - crazy. Basically you would be running at full tank pressure (100-250PSI depending on outside temp). The purpose of the regulator is to maintain a desire pressure set-point regardless of the tank pressure (obviously until the tank is lower than the set-point).

I think if you get yourself a fully adjustable regulator (not one that just have a needle valve on the output - that is not regulating pressure), everything will work out for you. Hell, if you are just using it for starting charcoal, it looks pretty damn good now.

-=Jasen=-

Here are two of my high pressure fully adjustable regulators. One is a bit industrial (got lucky at Home Depot one year and found it), the other is pretty much standard. I could not find my LP one - that would require too much digging - hehe.

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Ok, just so I'm clear do you think that if I got an adjustable regulator that went to 20 or 30 psi I would get a bigger flame even if this is a low pressure burner?

Here are the ones I have found.

img0865smallpx8.jpg

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One is 0-20psi and the other is 0-30psi.

Yes you are right I probably don't need to do this, 400 degrees is plenty. I actually did a pizza today for lunch with just the gas and it came out fine and only took about 45 mins. I also used it to just light the charcoal and it only took a few minutes to get going. But....bigger is always better.

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Ok, just so I'm clear do you think that if I got an adjustable regulator that went to 20 or 30 psi I would get a bigger flame even if this is a low pressure burner?

Here are the ones I have found.

img0865smallpx8.jpg

img0868smallsx2.jpg

One is 0-20psi and the other is 0-30psi.

Yes you are right I probably don't need to do this, 400 degrees is plenty. I actually did a pizza today for lunch with just the gas and it came out fine and only took about 45 mins. I also used it to just light the charcoal and it only took a few minutes to get going. But....bigger is always better.

It really just is not safe using that much pressure in an enclosed grill. Man if the flame blows out, that is a huge amount of gas in a short time building up in there and one spark equals KK launch off. Also, high pressure burners are designed different to allow for more air to be picked up with the faster moving gas so using HP in a LP rated burner causes a very lean mixture as it is allowing more gas (larger orifice) and not allowing enough air. It make them hard to light and easy to blow out. I seriously doubt you could even shut the lid without it blowing out at HP.

Unless you have a gauge on it now, I really have a hard time believing that flame is being produced at 10 PSI (that could be a rating not a setpoint if you just found it written somewhere). I believe that burner is designed for low pressure and should probably be operated between 10 - 15 "H20 with the proper LP adjustable regulator.

I was gonna say just my 2 cents, but we are way past that. hehe :shock:

-=Jasen=-

I am thinking if it ain't broke, don't fix it. But then again, I like to tweak things to so I cannot say too much.

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Actually I bought the regulator at Home Depot and I believe they only carry the high pressure stuff. It was with all the other BBQ items. Next time I'm in there I will double check but I'm 99% sure its for Propane. Its just your cheap off the shelf regulator. I'm still not sure that this is a low pressure burner, I had thought that Dennis always said it was set up for Propane first and then could be converted to NG. Also when I took everything apart the hole in the jet was VERY tiny, isn't this consistent with Propane? NG is larger? If I get the time I can disconnect the hose from my turkey fryer since it has an adjustable regulator and see what happens.

I understand about the "lift off", one time the flame went out in my old K and I went to re-light it, probably less than 15 seconds later. Well it went kaboom, I think the lid actually lifted and it fried my arm hairs. Very scary. I'll be honest the K burner put out much more gas and much more flame. I feel safer with this burner.

As you say I could just leave well enough alone but if I can get better results with a different regulator why not do it.

I appreciate the feedback.

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Actually I bought the regulator at Home Depot and I believe they only carry the high pressure stuff. It was with all the other BBQ items. Next time I'm in there I will double check but I'm 99% sure its for LP. Its just your cheap off the shelf regulator. I'm still not sure that this is a low pressure burner, I had thought that Dennis always said it was set up for LP first and then could be converted to NG. If I get the time I can disconnect the hose from my turkey fryer since it has an adjustable regulator and see what happens.

As you say I could just leave well enough alone but if I can get better results with a different regulator why not do it.

I appreciate the feedback.

Our Home Depot carries both high and low pressure - it should be written on the regulator somewhere.

Yes, Dennis said it could be LP or Natural Gas indicating no possibility of this being for high pressure propane. Only LP - low pressure burners can be converted to natural gas and that is because they are very close in operating pressure (which is 10-15"H20 for LP or 4-6"H2O for natural gas).

-=Jasen=-

BTW, are you drunker than me tonight or something?

Actually I bought the regulator at Home Depot and I believe they only carry the high pressure stuff. It was with all the other BBQ items. Next time I'm in there I will double check but I'm 99% sure its for LP. .

I was like huh?

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Sorry I was using LP for "Liquid Propane". Try reading it now.

The regulator is a Precimex mod 5000, if that means anything to you. After further review I think you may be correct, it may be low pressure. I'll have to go to HD to see if I can find the package as I didn't keep anything about it.

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Follow Up

Ok, I finally got time to do some more tinkering with the valve. This time I took the smallest drill bit I had (1/16" I believe) and drilled out the gas jet (or whatever its called) hole, made a BIG difference, now I have a MUCH higher flame and can reach temps in the 700 degree range. Can light charcoal in a matter of minutes. I think I am finally satisfied with the results. Since I have such a good flame now I can keep the draft door open about an inch and the top open to my 350 degree setting (about 3 turns). This makes it a little safer as it will be less likely to go out due to lack of oxygen. Once I get the new low air flow draft door I will be able to keep the door shut and only adjust the low air flow (sweeeeeeeet). Once again I don't recomend this for everyone; but it is an option if you aren't satisfied with the original set up.

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Re: Follow Up

Ok' date=' I finally got time to do some more tinkering with the valve. This time I took the smallest drill bit I had (1/16" I believe) and drilled out the gas jet (or whatever its called) hole, made a BIG difference, now I have a MUCH higher flame and can reach temps in the 700 degree range. Can light charcoal in a matter of minutes. I think I am finally satisfied with the results. Since I have such a good flame now I can keep the draft door open about an inch and the top open to my 350 degree setting (about 3 turns). This makes it a little safer as it will be less likely to go out due to lack of oxygen. Once I get the new low air flow draft door I will be able to keep the door shut and only adjust the low air flow (sweeeeeeeet). Once again I don't recomend this for everyone; but it is an option if you aren't satisfied with the original set up.[/quote']

Tony, that seems to be a pretty good orifice size for about a 20K BTU burner. Here is a chart for anyone wanting to what size drill equals what BTU - http://www.joppaglass.com/burner/lowp_chrt.html . I am glad you got your temps up were you want them now.

-=Jasen=-

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I like it!

I have my new metal master working on it my drunk friend :wink:

It won't be easy as the burner shaft is not threaded and does not go thru the door at a 90º so a tapered/slanted sleeve will have to be machined.

But this is do-able and it will looks more like a Komodo component should.

:lol::lol::lol:

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Metric Vs Standard --- on piping!

Well, I wanted to have more time to write an appropriate post for the subject, but that has not come to fruition yet (maybe soon). But short story is as follows: I cannot find anything on the internet that says there is a difference in standard size pipe verses metric - there are equivalencies for the common sizes as they are internationally standardized. I will post some web links below, but it looks like we should have no safety issues using our fittings with these burners. And from Tony's investigating, he has determined that 1/8 pipe seems to be the appropriate replacement size on the existing gas valve. I am hoping to talk someone into giving me a pretty close measurement on the larger thread where it goes into the burner??

http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/reference/metri ... s.htm#Pipe

http://mdmetric.com/tech/tic1e.htm#cht8

I also thought I would re-post this nice gas orifice chart again for those who might need it:

http://www.joppaglass.com/burner/lowp_chrt.html

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My Valve Assembly!

Ok, here is a pic of my valve assembly. Not quite finished. I have a little work to do on the valve (I had to tap a 1/4" valve to 3/8" on one side and that needs a little more depth). I also want to get a spare handle from Dennis and replace my valve handle with his teak handle. Pretty sweet stainless braided hose (had a friend hook me up with the nice valve and braided hose). 8)

The valve is reduced to 1/8" pipe thread on one side where it will replace the existing valve.

Also, this is an adjustable low pressure propane regulator (man it was hard to find).

-=Jasen=-

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