DennisLinkletter

The 32, 38, and 42" are the same grill with different center sections. The outside sections of the grates are the same on the 38 and 42; only the center section changes.

For unusual parts, please get in touch with [email protected] If parts are consumables or can be lost or broken, we stock them. However, many parts are rarely requested, and so they need to be special ordered.

I don't think we have made up the double drip for the 38 and 42 because of concerns about their weight, especially when full of oil.. Let me try to track down my notes. Heat Deflectors While I made them, I haven't personally used a heat deflector in my grills for more than 15 years because they increase airflow. In the world of glazed ceramic pots, big green egg, Kamado Joe, etc., having a plate with thermal mass inside your grill will give additional stability during ambient temperature changes. Because my grill is so well insulated, capturing this heat is unnecessary. I preheat the grill empty and then put a piece of aluminum foil on the lower grate for the area I want indirect, put my drip pan on top of that and use them to create indirect airflow. This will give you better performance/less airflow. From Sygies on my forum: Being one of "those people," I'd like to explain that there's science behind it. All you are trying to accomplish is to block the direct infrared radiation from the hot glowing coals - hence, indirect cooking. A "tissue-thin" foil accomplishes that easily, not because of its mass, but because it's shiny. Just like a mirror reflects visible light, the foil is reflecting the infrared radiation back down and not absorbing it. So, it's not consuming much energy itself (this is where the low mass comes into play), and significantly impacting the overall heat up of the grill. The side benefit is that it also prevents drips from entering the fire. Most of the cooking in the KK is due to convective heat transfer from the hot air flow around the meat. There is some secondary cooking from the radiative heat transfer from the walls/dome, which a heavy slab of similar material underneath the cooking grate will contribute to. But, radiative heat transfer drops off dramatically with distance. (Hence, it is most effective on the upper grate where the food is close to the dome surface.) So, placing the deflector on top of the charcoal basket handles, while allowing the deflector to be closer to the heat source for faster heat up, isn't contributing much if you're cooking on the main grate. Placing the deflector on the lower grate will result in a closer proximity to the food and some increase in effectiveness, but being further away from the heat source, will take longer to heat up - about the same rate as the walls/dome. The small incremental mass of the deflector stone is stealing BTUs of energy from the rest of the grill during heat-up, with little payback in overall cooking efficiency. Unlike the walls/dome, which are contributing to holding the heat inside the KK once at thermal equilibrium, the deflector, being wholly inside the grill isn't helping with that. So, the bottom line is: What does the heavy deflector bring to the table that makes it better than the "tissue-thin" piece of AL foil? https://komodokamadoforum.com/topic/10026-heat-deflectors-in-the-kk/?tab=comments#comment-121321

The new acrylic grout only comes in black and white.. We mix a grey. We've never grouted a grill in white. There were some very early pre-acrylic material grills with traditional grout but very few, probably over 21 years old. Are you sure it's not a Richard Johnson Kamado? Is it round with straps around the center, square legs, and round with tubes with springs near the hinge?

The new one-piece replaces the two previous gaskets. The second outside gasket was added for the weight of the 32" lid as a cushion to protect the grill lips from guests that like to slam lids and doors after one too many adult beverages... You can use the new one on all grills that have the 45º section on the lips..

Well, I dodged the proverbial bullet—at least the 32% one for 90 days. I will still get hit with a 10% at the end of this month, which still hurts, but I won't be losing money and need to reevaluate everything. ARGH.

Please give me a call if you have any questions.. Too expensive for me to ship an assembled crate without a grill in it. I suppose I could ship one in pieces; there would still be the trucking from Vegas. Call if that interests you.. Would arrive in June.

Does anybody have a photo of a lamb/goat in a roti cradle?

The grout is hard and gets flexible when heated... I never suggest removing existing grout and recommend filling tears/cracks from the bottom up. Best to clean up before it dries.

Doug from the Naked Whiz and a very early supporter of Komodo Kamado, does the best BBQ product reviews online. I always suggest starting there. https://nakedwhiz.com/productreviews/ultraq/ultraq-1.htm#features

For those who missed this fantastic "restoration" https://komodokamadoforum.com/topic/7535-hammered-kk/

When playing with the generator while testing, we found we liked the smoke created at medium to lower temps more than high temps, and your wood lasts longer. I generally use about 40% airflow.. But my 220v version may not be the same volume as 110v (they are from China) The 6w version of this is convenient as it is cordless and charges with a USB cable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CGR9BMCM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&amp=undefined&th=1 Wood starts to smoke about 450ºf, so 250-300º should be fine to dry it out. You only need the wood to get over 212ºf to vaporize the water.

Kramer Porn? One can only dream!

That's easy if you are looking for a new one..

I love it.. It looks like one of the early 60's Corningware glass kamados.

The first 38" Goldilocks grills were shipped with an ETA in early Dec. Two sold and two unsold.. https://komodokamado.com/collections/38-goldilocks-kamado-grill

The 42 and 38 have all the same set up..

Yes your grill has a gas door assembly... It's cast iron.. Will not melt for sure.. It will fill up with ash if you burn charcoal above it... The nozzle/jet is never going to get any ash on it.. The burner might need to be flipped and cleared of ash if it piles up.. Easy to remove it for cleaning

I've been saying for years that Tri-Tip is the tastiest meat on the cow. I'm spoiled because there is a reasonable Indonesian Wagyu supplier. I prefer 5-7 marbling wagyu.. It's to die for. I use coffee smoke during the first part of the reverse sear, take it to 130 and let it dissipate it's heat before blasting it for color and crust. Sometimes I put it in the refrigerator overnight, then grill it cold so I can get a great crust without overcooking it or getting a well-done outside layer. After I get the color and crust I want I warm it slowly indirect to eating temp..

Install the top two bolts finger-tight. If you have some of the original black foam (or any small piece of styrofoam- half-inch square) that was sent with the tables, you can use it down low next to the lower bolt to hold the plate out if necessary, then tighten the lower bolt only until the table is level then tighten the top two down tight leaving the lower where it is..

I'm not sure how you are lighting the surface of the "entire area of charcoal", but please don't. Just light a grapefruit volume of charcoal in ONE place.

32, 38, 42" Grate Comparison 32" Upper 418 sq" (2,698 cm2) 1 pce 32" Main 576 sq" (3,716 cm2) 1 pce 32" Lower 544 sq" (3,514 cm2) 1 pce 38" Upper 496 sq" (3,202 cm2) 1 pce 38" Main 688 sq" (4,437 cm2) 3 pce 38" Lower 602 sq" (3,878 cm2) 3 pce 42" Upper 614 sq" (3,958 cm2) 1 pce 42" Main 774 sq" (4,984 cm2) 3 pce 42" Lower 730 sq" (4,714 cm2) 3 pce

Both look great; why can't you take credit for the pie?

Coffee of course!