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Stoker details

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A decent idea, DJ, but I think the Stoker is a 5V system while the Guru is a 12V system so you'd need a voltage conversion for it to work properly. The Stoker uses a 1/4" plug for both fans and probes, but has a proprietary EEPROM embedded in the connector to let the Stoker know that it's a fan and to give it a serial number.

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A decent idea' date=' DJ, but I think the Stoker is a 5V system while the Guru is a 12V system so you'd need a voltage conversion for it to work properly. The Stoker uses a 1/4" plug for both fans and probes, but has a proprietary EEPROM embedded in the connector to let the Stoker know that it's a fan and to give it a serial number.[/quote']

Ah, like I said, don't have a Stoker.

As for voltage though, it would be simple enough to use a $5 radio shack 12v plug-in transformer and use the Stoker's 5v to power a relay. But did not realize the Stoker would not output that voltage unless it identifies their fan's EEPROM. So definitely not worth the trouble. But tossing around ideas is why a forum is great.

-=Jasen=-

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Anyone know where I can get a new power supply for my Stoker? Can't get any help from the maker of the Stoker!

You can try stopping by Radio Shack, they've got a variety of plugs that you can try out to find the right style and they should have a 2A 5V power supply for you. Note that the Stoker is labeled as 2A@5V but the included power supply is overrated and supports 6A@5V.

DJ, the reason for the EEPROM is because the Stoker has a bus mechanism that's pretty much infinitely expandable. You can plug the fan in anywhere and use as many fans as you like, so they need to be able to be properly identified by the system before they can be recognized and addressed.

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DJ, the reason for the EEPROM is because the Stoker has a bus mechanism that's pretty much infinitely expandable. You can plug the fan in anywhere and use as many fans as you like, so they need to be able to be properly identified by the system before they can be recognized and addressed.

Yeah, since you brought that up, seems like I remember reading about it somewhere. Guess I did not realize it was for fans too (thought only for TC). The Stoker definitely gets major points for versatility. Just wish we could create a Stoker/Guru monster to combine the best of both worlds.

-=Jasen=-

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power supply

I have two Stoker power supply units. They are identical. One was just shipped to me Friday. This is the label info:

MODEL: A602-05 25

Input 100-240 V AC

0.5A 47-63 Hz

Output 5V DC 2.5A

This is not a 6 Amp unit. The Stoker fan draws 0.57 Amp, or 570 milliamps.

There is no manufacturers name.

The outer contact is the negative, the inner contact is the positive.

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Mission Accomplished

I have successfully attached a Guru nozzle to a Stoker fan housing. So, if you have a Stoker and a KK with the new, Guru specific port, you can use this mod. I am going to repeat for the third time; and no disrespect intended, that I believe Dennis should stick with the original 1-3/8" port so these shenanigans aren't necessary. Here is the mod: Remove the gasket from your Stoker nozzle. Remove the four screws that attach the nozzle to the fan housing using a Phillip's screwdriver. The Guru nozzle has two, 3/32" allen bolts that attach it to it's fan housing and you will use these to attach it to the Stoker housing. I purchased the Guru nozzle with the damper assembly and found that you do not need the damper. If you have the damper assembled to your nozzle remove it. Better yet, just order the nozzle alone from the BBQ Guru. It is Item # 20-033, Large fan nose. Study the photos carefully. You will drill two holes in the face plate of the Stoker fan housing. These holes need to be precisely spaced. I used a caliper to transfer the center to center spacing from the Guru attach bolts on to the appropriate surface of the Stoker fan housing. Note that you will be drilling on the side plates of the fan housing, not the top and bottom plates. Use a 1/16" inch drill bit to drill pilot holes, and then a 1/8" bit for the final hole diameter. Now simply attach the nozzle to the fan housing using the allen bolts, placing one gasket between the nozzle and the housing. You will use a 3/32" allen wrench. That's it. When I ordered the parts, I did not order by part number, I simply asked for a nozzle with damper assembly. As I said, you don't need the damper. If you call, press for extension 241 and you will get Sara. Ask for the nozzle, they call it "Large fan nose" and the O-ring, if it is not included, and the gasket, if it is not included, and two attach bolts. I actually think the O-ring, gaskets and bolts are all included when you order the "Fan nose" Just find out from Sara. This is all you will need. Be precise in the placement and spacing of your two drilled holes, that is the key. Dry fit the nozzle on to the fan housing to visualize what you are doing before drilling. Here's the photos:

http://gallery.me.com/mpguerra#100197

Ignore photo 1010014, that is just a picture of the damper, which you don't need. You will notice that in these photos, the actual fan itself is not present. The reason is I had a spare fan housing laying around sans fan, I will put the fan back in later. Don't think you have to remove the fan from the housing, you don't!

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more than one way

If you look at the photos, another idea might strike you. The last photo is the Stoker nozzle, detached from the fan housing. The tube is welded on with four welds. It could be cut off and a 31 mm O.D. tube welded on in its' place. You could do that. This is obviously the solution John at Rock's could do, as well. Not cut off the 32 mm one, but just make some with a 31 mm tube, I mean. Where do you get 31 mm tubing? I have no idea, but could probably figure it out in one day. I'm thinking possibly a muffler shop. If we just had the old port....

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Re: Mission Accomplished

I have successfully attached a Guru nozzle to a Stoker fan housing. So, if you have a Stoker and a KK with the new, Guru specific port, you can use this mod. I am going to repeat for the third time; and no disrespect intended, that I believe Dennis should stick with the original 1-3/8" port so these shenanigans aren't necessary. Here is the mod: Remove the gasket from your Stoker nozzle. Remove the four screws that attach the nozzle to the fan housing using a Phillip's screwdriver. The Guru nozzle has two, 3/32" allen bolts that attach it to it's fan housing and you will use these to attach it to the Stoker housing. I purchased the Guru nozzle with the damper assembly and found that you do not need the damper. If you have the damper assembled to your nozzle remove it. Better yet, just order the nozzle alone from the BBQ Guru. It is Item # 20-033, Large fan nose. Study the photos carefully. You will drill two holes in the face plate of the Stoker fan housing. These holes need to be precisely spaced. I used a caliper to transfer the center to center spacing from the Guru attach bolts on to the appropriate surface of the Stoker fan housing. Note that you will be drilling on the side plates of the fan housing, not the top and bottom plates. Use a 1/16" inch drill bit to drill pilot holes, and then a 1/8" bit for the final hole diameter. Now simply attach the nozzle to the fan housing using the allen bolts, placing one gasket between the nozzle and the housing. You will use a 3/32" allen wrench. That's it. When I ordered the parts, I did not order by part number, I simply asked for a nozzle with damper assembly. As I said, you don't need the damper. If you call, press for extension 241 and you will get Sara. Ask for the nozzle, they call it "Large fan nose" and the O-ring, if it is not included, and the gasket, if it is not included, and two attach bolts. I actually think the O-ring, gaskets and bolts are all included when you order the "Fan nose" Just find out from Sara. This is all you will need. Be precise in the placement and spacing of your two drilled holes, that is the key. Dry fit the nozzle on to the fan housing to visualize what you are doing before drilling. Here's the photos:

http://gallery.me.com/mpguerra#100197

Ignore photo 1010014, that is just a picture of the damper, which you don't need. You will notice that in these photos, the actual fan itself is not present. The reason is I had a spare fan housing laying around sans fan, I will put the fan back in later. Don't think you have to remove the fan from the housing, you don't!

Doc: Thanks for sharing your solution, I went ahead and ordered the same parts you ordered. The package arrived today and I have just completed the modification with a minor variation. I added an Aluminum plate with a 3/4" D hole to match the internal Dia of the O-Ring gasket, providing a cleaner transition form the Rectangular cross section of the fan housing to the Guru Nozzle. I also added a silicone gasket with the Aluminum plate (this one is probably superfluous).

The blower now fits perfectly onto the KK. I think I prefer the quality of construction of this nozzle, to the construction of the original one on the Stoker.

Incidentally, I also went ahead and adopted your fix for the blower door sticking. I chose to use a #4 1/2" Stainless Steel Sheet Metal screw instead of a glued in Brad, and the pointed tip works very well to prevent the door from making contact with the ceiling of the fan housing.

56148227.th.jpg

88271811.th.jpg

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Re: Stoker details

Thanks for the ideas guys, recently acquired a Stoker and needed to adapt to KK. Yeah, I know Stoker now makes an adapter, but for $10 Sarah sent me just the nozzle, gasket and bolts for the Guru fan. Prefer the hands on / power tool method any day. My Stoker fan just had a flat metal plate on the front with a hole in it (no adapter). So just left it in place and drilled holes for the Guru nozzle. Works great! Oh yeah, decided not to wait for a sticky door on it (old model fan) and added the small screw mod...thanks!

-=J

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Re: Stoker details

Thanks for the ideas guys, recently acquired a Stoker and needed to adapt to KK. Yeah, I know Stoker now makes an adapter, but for $10 Sarah sent me just the nozzle, gasket and bolts for the Guru fan. Prefer the hands on / power tool method any day. My Stoker fan just had a flat metal plate on the front with a hole in it (no adapter). So just left it in place and drilled holes for the Guru nozzle. Works great! Oh yeah, decided not to wait for a sticky door on it (old model fan) and added the small screw mod...thanks!

-=J

Update, just found out Sarah is no longer working there. Shame, as she was a very good customer service person.

Fours items listed on my invoice:

20-033 Large Fan Nose (pit boss & viper)

95-145 #4-40 x 1/2" SHCS-SS (bolts)

98-002 Large Nose Gasket (2)

98-182 O-Ring #118 Viton

Anyway, it was $14.15 with shipping.

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