Pequod

All, You'll find the rub recipe here:

Yup...a good example of why I monitor formation of the flame front is...lighting binchotan. If I simply MAPP + Blow or use a Rutland square and then close the lid, I guarantee you I'll be disappointed. Now once it is lit, yeah...air flow dictates what it does. But the flame front is, to me, the important indicator of ignition and when to close the lid to send it on its thermal journey to equilibrium stoichiometry. Again...no rocket science here, but I could tell you stories of igniting rocket motors that are kinda fun...

At equilibrium, all of the above is true -- stoichiometry being what it is. The process of startup isn't equilibrium. It is all about establishing a flame front in your charcoal, which once established will grow or recede to match the airflow. The process of MAPP + Blower is to establish the flame front. Then we close the lid and let the vents/vacuum effect do its thing. With starter squares, it takes about 5-10 minutes to establish the flame front. Could that be done with lid closed? Sure, but I'm typically spending that time putting grates in, tables on, running thermal cables through the polder port, etc. And I typically want to see whether the starters have established the flame front I want -- just like we do with MAPP + Blower. By the time I've done all that and the starters have established the flame front, I do exactly what we do with a MAPP + Blower -- close the lid and let the vents work toward equilibrium stoichiometry. No rocket science involved (although I have software for that if there was) -- Establish the flame front you want, close the lid.

Here's a pic of the two zone in action. Note the half main on the left. Once I got enough char on, I moved the steak to the half main and closed the lid for about 5 minutes. With a reverse sear, you start on the cool side until you get to the right internal temp, then flash it over the coals to sear. This configuration also works for low and slow. I'll keep the temp down in the 250-300 range and put the meat on the half main. No need to reconfigure anything.

My basket splitter is almost always in place in the 50% position. Why? https://amazingribs.com/more-technique-and-science/grill-and-smoker-setup-and-firing/how-control-temperature-indirect With this setup I have a direct zone and an indirect zone. I'll often have the half-main grate positioned on the indirect side, and a lower (usually the sear grate) on the direct side. It's the perfect configuration for 90% of what I do. Only time I'll remove the splitter and go full basket is if I need more of a direct zone for some reason...but that's pretty rare. In fact, I have both sides of the splitter filled with charcoal, and just cover the side I don't want to use. One side is full of coco-char for low/slow cooks. The other side is full of regular ol' lump (Fogo or similar).

I don't think there's a right or wrong way on this one. Main point is to have an oxygen rich environment early on before restricting the oxygen via the vents. Lid closed with vents wide open are the same thing as lid open for a bit in my book. That said, my 32 is definitely more thermally agile than my 23, and I started my procedure outlined above on the 23. What I mean is...I could definitely close the lid after lighting on the 32, open all vents wide, and it will get there very quickly. But on my 23, if I close the lid after lighting, I generally need to pull the front vent panel out and/or remove the guru plug to amp up the flow. I hate pulling the front panel because I don't always reseat it fully sealed when I push it back in. Would rather leave it alone. Hence...lid up for a bit works for me.

For me it depends on my lighting method: MAPP Torch and Blower: Light as many spots as I need with a MAPP torch. Use my Milwaukee variable speed blower to stoke those spots until they are at least fist size and can generate a flame (not just smoldering coals). Wait 5-10 minutes, then close the lid and set the vents. Rutland Starter Squares: Light as many as I need. Keep the lid open until they burn out (typically 10 minutes). Close lid and set the vents.

This is the second senior we’ve adopted through Lab Rescue. Kodi crossed the rainbow bridge almost exactly 1 year ago. Took some time to find Buck, but he’s already become my buddy. Follows me everywhere. Here we are, bringing our boy home: His name was “Puck”, but we didn’t like it, so he’s now “Buck”. He’ll never notice the change.

Some roadkill mini-chooks over a pan of harissa’d sweet taters and asparagus. The minis were dry brined and seasoned with Meathead’s Simon and Fargunkle rub. ...and this is our new old dog, Buck. Just because. We adopted him today.

That’s only because it was!

Had a tenderloin tip in my freezer from a whole packer I had butchered up, so today was the day. Pounded it flat’ish, seasoned with Lane’s Ancho Espresso rub, and rubbed in a bit of olive oil all over. Cooking it like flank steak, so into the belly of the beast — my KK Big Bad 32. Pulled on the rare side of medium rare and resting. Ain’t she a beaut? Lawd have mercy! Going weak in the knees looking at that. Griddled some onions and peppers, made a quick pick de gallo, and a slice of fresh avocado. There were no survivors...

Done.

Looks like the chassis for a quad-copter. Motors, rotors, Raspberry Pi, and a whisper of artificial intelligence and we're good to go.

Looks like a great first cook. A bit confused by your configuration as the pic shows the ribs on the Middle grate, not the main. You mean you foiled the very lowest grate just above the coal bed? And cooked on the middle grate? I would typically leave the lower grate out, put a layer of foil just large enough to provide a deflection zone for the ribs on the middle, and cook on the main. No issues with airflow in that configuration.

I still have quite a bit from my original 23 purchase, but I know there are others in VA if you extend your reach a bit. @Steve M is down around Norfolk. @John A and @Keith B are both around Richmond (I think).

Wow! $89 grinder to Niche Zero. Go big or go home! Mine says shipping in April.

Truth is, you CAN make good espresso at home for under $1K for both grinder and machine. You'll just be limited to medium and darker roasts and to what you can achieve. I had a Gaggia Classic (~$300) paired with an Orphan Espresso Pharos (~$250) for 3 years and it was GREAT...as long as I didn't want anything more than Redbird Espresso (which is an awesome comfort blend far better than any chain coffee shop). The Classic simply needs three teensy weensy upgrades to make it suitable: 1) Replace the steam wand with the wand from a Rancilio Silvia (easily purchased and installed after market). 2) Recalibrate the OPV to 9 bars (the stock setting is 13 bars for some mysterious reason). This requires a portafilter fitting pressure gauge, but I happen to have one and would be willing to send to you if you went down this path. 3) Install a PID to replace the stock bimetal thermostat. This will allow you to precisely control your water temp (bimetal thermos swing wildly, making them unsuitable for espresso). This is available as a kit from Auber. With that...you'll be off and running. Just accept you'll be dropping another $5k in a few years...

...and yet the coffee continues to be excellent. No doubt the DE1 is one of the most polarizing machines out there. Just a cursory glance at HB and you’ll find haters (LOTS)...and over the top fanboy enthusiasts...and not much in between. The traditionalists prefer the “art” and wizardry, and the DE1 takes a lot of that away. Now we have data! For every review like the above, there are multiple others that are polar opposite. I actually agree with the first two bullet points above. But I wanted a high end machine with small footprint. Tain’t pretty, but it works. The sounds it makes? Yeah...they’re weird. So what? That grinder next to it is practically shouting high decibel obscenities every time I hit the switch. The next two aren’t quite accurate. Since things are constantly upgraded with firmware and app upgrades, if it isn’t good now, it soon will be. Users simply need request, and it happens. Have seen this multiple times on the DE forum already (including a steam tweak), and I’ve only owned one for two weeks. There’s also a pro steam wand option that user tests show reduces the steam moisture by quite a bit...entirely in the users control to purchase and install. I have one but haven't installed it yet, mostly because the stock wand seems to be more than adequate to me...I enjoy the texture I'm getting and, maybe I'm too ignorant to tell, but don't notice excessively moist steam (especially compared with my previous machine). John Buckman is a lot like Dennis...actively a part of his community of users, and incredibly responsive. Thus putting the lie to the last point. Early adopters have been sent free upgrade kits to keep their machines up to date. Not to mention the continuous stream of firmware and app updates, AND a lively community of users sharing 3rd party upgrades, profiles, etc. Again...think Dennis like service and user community. BUT... I agree with the reviewer that it isn’t for everyone. If you prefer to preserve the mystery and art of espresso, no shame in staying analog. If you’re an engineer (guilty!) or just want to learn more than you thought you ever would about what makes a good cup...the DE1 is a contender. Sometimes more data isn’t better, and it does add to the workflow, because each shot also comes with the desire to analyze the data. Definitely not for everyone, just like a KK isn’t for everyone. Nothing wrong with that. But also nothing wrong with enjoying it if that's your cup o' joe.

Only if you wanna run with the cool crowd!

I single dose, weighing the beans in. Used to weigh the beans out, but am using a low retention grinder, and will get even better (I hope) with the Niche Zero. Definitely weigh the shot yield in real time.

3D model of the drip tray assembly, but not mine. There's a DE1 user in Australia who is remarkably prolific with mods and add-ons for the machine. 3D printed drip tray assembly (with integrated scale), 3D printed tablet stand, has composed more custom profiles than Mozart did Piano Concertos, even a custom skin for the tablet. Pretty sure he doesn't have a job. Anyway...I'm using his design and having 3dhubs print it out for me. This will integrate the scale BELOW the drip tray, both protecting it from excess drips and preserving headspace for larger cups.

Forgot to mention the 3D printed parts I have on order to build a drip tray that integrates my Bluetooth scale.

Some new VST baskets arrived today. Also ordered a Niche Zero grinder out of the UK which has 63mm conical titan burrs, is getting excellent reviews, and also much more affordable than the Monoliths. I’m out of control.

Look for @Syzygies steam oven technique using a cast iron skillet and stainless steel chain.

Sous vide?