ThreeDJ16

Just curious, since I don't have a Stoker, but what kind of electrical connector are they using to connect the fan to the Stoker unit and what is the cost of the fan? Wondering how simple it would be to just use a Guru fan and change the connector to fit Stoker or in the case of having Stoker and Guru, split the wiring and have both connectors. Would save the cost of an extra fan too. Could always go the other way on the fans if you already have a Stoker fan and bought a Guru unit. There should be little difference between fan operation other than the Stoker has a damper that closes when it is not running and the Guru has a slide damper. Though as long as I have been using my Guru, not having a damper that closes has never been a problem (provided your settings are correct). I even shut mine down via the Guru with no issues. Anyway, just another possibility. -=Jasen=- Edit....little more work and the cost of two electrical connectors, but if you did not want to cut into the fan wires, a simple adapter could be made.

Even to hold a drip pan? What's a drip pan? Probably use one of those about as often as the lower grill (memory fades). Guess if I were doing some type of roast (maybe schweinshaxe) and needed drippings for a gravy. But even then, I could use the upper grill / main grill combo. -=Jasen=-

Offer a sear/upper grill in place of the lower grill (for new grill buyers). Honestly cannot remember ever using it. Though I am sure it will make parts for an excellent mod one day! -=Jasen=-

Re: OK to use copper automotive silicone for gaskets? I have used the Permatex black automotive silicone for that purpose for years with no problems. Wanted a little extra seal, so I laid a bead around the entire perimeter (lower lip on the slope). Then placed wax paper all the way around on top of it, closed / latched the lid and left alone for a day. After it is has cured, trim the edges and you should be good to go. I have also used the same silicone on the Guru port with no issues and it has never pulled loose (though I did scuff up the surfaces for better adherence). -=Jasen=-

http://www.komodokamado.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2632 Guess they never got around to adding it to the web order area. -=Jasen=-

Very nice mod dude! It is always cool to see home grown ingenuity pics on the forum! -=Jasen=-

Re: Reality Flash Yah, real funny til someone loses an eyebrow.... I tend not to stick my head over it when doing it intentionally. hehe -=Jasen=- “It's always funny until someone gets hurt. Then it's just hilarious.†Bill Hicks quotes (American Comedian, b.1961)

Re: Reality Flash But you gotta admit, it is cool to do! -=Jasen=-

I have retired from such trivial tasks!

Re: Cold smoking cod Hey Whizzy, did you see the really cool method Firemonkey came up with for doing jerky at low temps? Cannot remember where it is at (someone can find it), but basically the CEL stacked on a metal rod and light it at the bottom....nice! Maybe that could help you out with less fire tending? -=Jasen=-

Mod No Longer Needed Well thankfully, the Guru folks finally added the feature that make this mod obsolete! Here are a list of features you get with the update: Open Lid Detect Hold feature- allows you to set a hold temp after the timer runs out Placement of serial# is more secure so base station and hendheld will not lose communication

Anyone with a Procom may wish to consider a firmware update. Here are a list of features you get with the update: Open Lid Detect Hold feature- allows you to set a hold temp after the timer runs out Placement of serial# is more secure so base station and hendheld will not lose communication

viewtopic.php?t=2632

No worries, bottom line was that correct information was brought out. Now we all know any of the fan models will work! Yup, Masters week is upon us again in my city. Those non-golf fanatics such as myself are stricken to their homes verses fighting traffic and crowds. Oh well, needed to do some cooking this week anyway.....outta practice! -=Jasen=-

No need to get up tight, your post did not state you actually had/used a 25 cfm fan (least I did not see that fact)....my apologies. I am glad someone whom has one, now stated that it does without a doubt work well. I have a Procom and a DigiQ II, both with 10 cfm fans and they work great. Since I have no large offset grill or plans to own one, my recommendation will still be the 10cfm fan as that is a better match for the KK looking at flow needed and the $30 price difference in the fans. But it is nice to know for sure now, that any fan we choose will be good. -=Jasen=-

Re: empirical observations

Sorry to be behind the ball, but I also suggest the 10cfm fan. While is does have a draft door adjustment, I think you will have more issues on lower temp holding with a 25 cfm. The 10cfm is already way more than the KK needs. I run my 10 cfm at 75% open, but only because I have a proportional band adjustment electronically with the Promcom. Otherwise I would probably set it at 50%. The larger airflow is great for getting it up to temps, but tends to overshoot by a larger degree (so proportional band is used to reel it in). The DigiQ II should combat this some as it has a startup feature to pause the airflow (like the open lid detect) on a rapid rise. Also the new CyberQ will have proportional band internally (like the Procom) to help tweak it to your liking. But hey, if you get the 25cfm, lets us know the facts since we are just speculating? You could always have a 25 for blowing on high temp cooks and the 10 for low/slow. I think it was Dennis who keeps a hairdryer on hand for such occasions...hehe! One last thing, you Guru part number is different than the one on my post on a thread stickied near the top of this section. Was your part number for the short silicone in place tube or for the larger bulkhead? The number I had was for the shorter tube. Thanks for the info to clear it up for others. -=Jasen=-

Re: 2nd brisket

Still here, just have not had much time to post lately....barely even cooked out.

If you use a power draft on the KK you will get smoke leakage, it's not going to be pressure tight, but that is not a problem. But under natural draft conditions, you should not see any other smoke other than the top damper. Also, a very small leak over the entire edge of a draft door or lip seal has a larger area than one would think. Simply a small amount of charcoal/ash grit on the sealing surface of the draft door can be enough to keep a smolder going for a while. Especially if the top damper is not completely sealed since natural draft will increase the draw. Good practice to keep both doors sealing surface wiped down on occasion. -=Jasen=-

Manuals are out. http://www.thebbqguruforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=610