5698k

Close the lid literally means close the lid. Some folks leave the lid open for a bit to ensure the fire is lit. Setting the top vent is another action, but the good news is that the top vent setting will likely never change. If you keep it closed enough, wind shouldn't affect the temp. The fan damper is wide open. If you feel that wind is affecting things, by all means, close it a bit. Once your grill is loaded with coal and you're ready to light, get the cyberq set up, and plugged in, vents at their proper settings. Light a very small amount of coal, a verify its lit. Close the lid, and walk away. I do let the temp soak a bit before adding smoke wood, deflector, grates and proteins, it helps in returning to target temp. I let the cyberq do the work, it's literally running before I actually light the fire. Follow these suggestions and your fire will never be more than 5° off, and closer than that once stabilized. Rob

Sounds like you've got the feel for the top vent. You want the fan to run regularly, you want the temp to drop if the fan isn't running regularly. Next time, get the guru set up, light the fire, close the lid, and walk away. These things work as advertised, they just require proper set up. Rob

There's no need to try and trick the cyberq, also no need to choke the fan. As you noted the trick is to keep the top vent almost completely closed. I just barely open from being able to feel the gasket. The cyberq learns your grill during a cook, so if it's not acting just right, re cycle the power. I've used these things for about 4 years, and I love them. There's no need to stay at 225°, it's not a problem, but higher, I like 275°, is way more predictable, a good bit faster with no difference in results. Do you already have the bge coal? If not, get royal oak, that's what bge coal is, just in a different bag and more exspnsive. Rob

OTB=Outside the box. I think it has something to do with Dennis' inspiration for the design of his original grills. Rob

It is. Is that all you see? Sometimes it's only little damp spots and small bubbles. Rob

I would also get your grill in a more controllable configuration. Put the guru plug back in, bottom vent 3/4 open, top vent no more than two turns open. This would normally give you all the heat you need. Rob

I think it's time to check your thermometer, I find it hard to believe 430° for forty minutes with all that going on. Can you remove it? Rob

Happy 4th! Rob

First, a full load of coal is never too much, there's still airflow happening. The most common culprit is the latch, make sure it's closed all the way, sometimes new grills are particularly stiff. Second, make sure BOTH bottom vents are pushed closed all the way, sometimes closing the lid can work bottom vents open. Third, sometimes the top vent needs a little extra twist, but just a little, to make sure the fiber gasket is contacting all around the vent. Rob

They look done. Time to eat. Rob

DAYUM!!!!! Rob

Close the lid, vents open until you hit about 100°. Then close the bottom to about 1/3" open, the top about 1/4 turn open from where you can feel the gasket. Rob

Do you see the hinge pin almost center picture? It's directly between the cap nuts holding the hinge to the lid/base. There's a tiny hole in the end of the hinge pin, that where the kotter pin goes. What type of cook are you doing? Are you using cocochar? Coco is harder to light than regular lump, but when lit it comes on up. If you're doing a lo/slo, I hope you haven't lit too much. Close the lid, vents open, you're not getting the draft effect. You'll also be surprised at how little lit coal it takes to heat this thing up, please realize these grills are way more insulated than you're used to. Rob

The kotter pin goes in the small hole at this end of the hinge pin. Yes, they're available at a hardware store very cheaply. Rob

That cotter pin should have been in place from the factory, contact Dennis and get another, or go to a local hardware store and get one, they're very cheap. If you find one in your parts box, it's likely for the top vent, there's a similar hole in the bottom of that shaft to prevent unscrewing inadvertently. If I remember right, it takes a bit more than one box of cocochar to fill the basket of a 32", the basket should be roughly full, to the top of the basket itself. For roughly 250° ish, bottom vent about 1/4"-1/3" open, top about 1/4 turn open, from the point you can just feel the gasket touch. I hope a 32" owner will chime in, or refer to your manual, as the deflector system is multi piece, all smaller grills are one piece. The stainless charcoal cover you're referring to I think is a drip pan, not a cover. If all else fails, call Dennis, I truly believe he enjoys helping with new owners in such matters. Heck, I think he truly enjoys helping in all matters, that's part of the package! Rob

What? No smoke?!?! Rob

Well, it's clear to me that you need a matching 23" so you can use the second rib rack. Rob

Wait to test it out?!?! What could possibly be more important?? Rob

Let the coco char fall randomly into your basket, don't place it. Rob

I have a home made version, best thing ever for deep frying. Rob

I have a home made version, best thing ever for deep frying. Rob

If restorations are something you enjoy, then maybe, just maybe consider it. It is definitely an RJ posk, and not a Komodo Kamado. That said, I agree, buy a KK. Rob

Wolfs and Vikings aren't Komodo Kamados, never will be. You have the single finest charcoal grill available coming to your door, and once you have it, the rest will be a distant memory Rob

I read your burn in post, and it appears that yours was fairly normal, and you did everything exactly right. After you do your patches, and one or two more hi heart cooks, it sounds like you'll be done with that part. There are folks on this forum that didn't even realize that tiles were lifted on their grills for several cooks, the tiles were in the back of the grill. Once spotted, he punctured the grout, the gas escaped, the tiles laid down and now there's no evidence of tile issues at all. If you have any questions, doubts, or concerns, ask away, we're all here to help, but always, feel free to call Dennis, he'll answer any questions you may have. Rob

Agree with Mac, welders gloves, or any gauntlet type heat resistant gloves will work. An option is Steven Raichlen's gloves, but I imagine there are plenty of less exspensive alternatives. Rob