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5698k

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Everything posted by 5698k

  1. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. I’m not crazy about the table clamp set up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. What I did was use a Dixie type paper plate, the type with the waxy side. Top hat shaft through the middle of the plate, wax side towards the gasket, use the top hat for pressure..hold the plate to prevent spinning. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. How bad is your current gasket? I didn’t replace mine until it literally came off. If you choose to change your gasket, there are a number of threads on the subject, but if you can’t find one, I’ll be happy to explain how I did mine. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. Asahi are great boards, but I personally use hi soft..no particular reason… Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. I’m “in” to hi end knives you might say..and the short story is that the preferred boards tend to be end grain, hinoki, and hi soft, which is a synthetic. There are many reasons to go with various types of boards, but with sharp, often expensive knives, what’s best for the blade is typically the priority. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. I haven’t used one, but from what I understand chamber sealers are the deal. I think they’re starting in the $1200 range. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. One tiny detail, Dennis sells covers made specifically for kks, so don’t let the uncovered area stop you!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. The point of the pot is to get “clean” smoke. When you put your chunks directly into the fire, there’s the period of time that you get “dirty” smoke. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. First and foremost, as to all your questions about are kks that good..yes they are, and then some. There’s not much of a used market, buyers simply don’t get rid of them. Secondly, the warranty doesn’t transfer, but it’s actually fairly rare that that’s an issue. The other issue is that when used ones do appear, the value holds up really well, so it’s unlikely you’ll find a “deal” on a used one. Kks don’t lose tiles, if you’ve seen pics of large patches missing, it’s either a damaged grill, a grill that got moisture under the grout and freezing occurred, typically from not being covered, and most commonly, it’s not even a kk, but likely a Richard Johnson Kamado, which is a story in itself. I highly recommend biting the bullet and ordering a new one from Dennis, because all new grills come with him, almost literally. He’ll help you with a used one, but it’s not the same. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. No worries, it’s a cosmetic coating used to cover the inner material that’s not very attractive..it’ll soon be black as you continue to cook. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. You want the smoke to pass through the fire, it somewhat cleans it. Keep in mind that you’re getting clean smoke now, and not the acrid stuff you might be used to. Dennis put it best..if the smoke burns your eyes, you don’t want to cook with it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. I use two layers of heavy duty foil, as many chunks as you care to have, three small holes toward the fire. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. This!! [emoji115] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Uhh, no! I’m a tile guy…bronze tiles actually. It really makes no difference, it’s just a friendly running joke around here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Additionally, the design of the firebox is such that ALL of the air passes over the coals, which is not the case in other kamados. So even if the kk wasn’t truly insulated, it simply needs less air volume to maintain a given temperature because all the air entering the grill is fueling the fire. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  17. Actually KK’s have no ceramic in them, and it’s the only truly insulated kamado grill available. The insulation prevents heat loss, so less fuel is required to maintain a given temperature..less fuel, less airflow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. 5698k

    Holding 225?

    I’m sorry, I didn’t read your post thoroughly. You’re right, the temp shouldn’t climb an additional 10° every time you open it. For 225°, your top vent should barely off the seat. Is it moving slightly when you open? When you light your fire, do you allow the temp to come up slowly? It’s possible the fire is somewhat choked as opposed to having the right lit coal/airflow combination. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  19. 5698k

    Holding 225?

    Don’t worry about a 10° swing.. it’s insignificant. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  20. I typically don’t wrap my briskets, but I believe this would be an exception. Secondly, I believe this is a textbook candidate for dry brining..basically salt it as much as you would under normal circumstances, let it sit uncovered overnight, then season as you care to minus the salt, and cook normally. Sous vide would be another option if you have that capability. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  21. Good deal..this is kind of a common occurrence particularly on newer grills..or owners simply learn to check the doors as a matter of normal maintenance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Make sure your draft doors haven’t worked open.. otherwise it’s possible you lit too much coal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Well, dammit. Now pebble people can start saying that their grills cook as well as tiled grills!! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  24. Cooking at your temperatures powered through the stall. Had you cooked at 225° ish, you’d still be cooking, wondering if it’ll be done in time. Neither is right or wrong, there’s simply a big difference in temps significantly higher than 225° as far as cook times. At the lower temp, the stall can last seemingly forever, or it can be somewhat linear. At 250°+, the cooking is quite linear, and the finish time can be fairly well predicted. Great job, I’m sure your guests will wonder how long you’ve been doing this! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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