DennisLinkletter

This type of damage is caused when the weight of the lid is set on something uneven and the full weight is only on the edge of the tiles. LOL I've made that same mistake before.. Closing the lid firmly on tongs or something solid can do that to.. Seen that too.. That won't re-attach there because the grout on the edges dries out completely.. You will have/need to use the acrylic material to re-attach those tiles that were basically pried off the lid. Not a big deal..

Welcome to the forum.. and congrats on your purchase!

Personally this 5" shown below does not work for me.. and I also really think the Smoke/BBQ/Grill wordage is a bit hokey and very amateurish. KK grills now have a 2" dial.. The 32" BB could maybe go as large as 3.5" but any larger than that would be out of scale and distract from the whole..

Not the one I have made up.. Same to 750º

The current charcoal basket's bottom rods are close enough to keep smalls from falling thru and with the basket installed the firebox holds the smalls in place. But if you want to pick up and change baskets or lift out the basket the sides won't hold small pieces. Whatcha all think about reducing the spacing on the side rods on the lower part of the basket like this? Worth the additional expense or unnecessary?

Those look great.. Love beef ribs.. The place that I get my beef from has wagu beef ribs from time to time. Great flavor but because they are soo fatty they can make you feel like you just drank oil after you eat too much. Last time we bought freshly baked half sized croissants, and made lil' sandwiches with wasabi mayo. They were so good, everybody ate too many and we had to delay dinner.

I recently received this email.. I don't agree a 5" thermometer is desirable.. But wanted to run this by you just in case.. Email: I currently own a big green egg XL. I plan on upgrading to your ceramic cooker as soon as I can as it seems to be the most innovative on the market. One item however of constructive criticism of your grill is the thermometer. This is where your grill is like everyone else's and shouldn't be. I changed out the thermometer on my BGE XL for a Tel Tru five(5) inch diameter glowdial thermometer and it is fantastic. The size of the face of the thermometer makes it easy to read and monitor even at a distance. Plus it is extremely accurate. Also as your large grills are much larger than the competition, it fits the size of the grill. It costs retail about $100.00 but lets face it ceramic grills aren't cheap in the first place and therefore should not have cheap accessories. All of the components of your product are off the chart super high quality save one, the thermometer. I hope that you take this comment the way it was meant as a way to improve a great product. My Reply: My KK's thermometer is also a Tel-Tru bi-metal which is considered the best in the business not a cheap accessory and is the same ±1% accuracy as the large one you are using. Esthetically I would cringe at a 5” face on anything except my 32” grill and even then I don’t see the advantage of the larger face. If you are grilling at high temps you are standing in front of the grill.. For low and slow, because of the insulation it’s set and forget.. no need to constantly adjust your airflow like on ceramic grills that allow airflow around the firebox/charcoal. I only need/want to monitor my meat temp from a distance and there are many remote thermometers on the market.. I always use the ones that give me both grill and meat temps.. Honestly in 12 going on 13 years of building the grills the only complaint about the thermometers have been they occasionally fog up. Whatcha all on the forum think? Thanks in advance..

I just throw them down directly on the coals.. They blacken up fastest there. And if I'm in a hurry I'll run them under cold water in the sink to peel them.

Awesome.. I can smell it off the screen.. Baaaa!

Bada Bing! Nailed that.. The browned crispy-ish cheese on top looks killer.. I'd be fighting to get one of those corner pieces!

I also buy the 4 ml bags because we wash, dry and reused them until they look scrappy.. same goes for the nicer quality Zip-Lock bags. As long as they still hold water, it makes sense for the planet and to re-use as much as possible. We try never to take bags at stores and never throw them away until they have been re-used and re-purposed too..

The cables on the probes/ thermocouples on the Mavericks and the other $30-50 units just aren't commercial grade, they're too small and go dead with frequent use. I use the Guru's (usually without the fan) as remote thermometer.. They use a industrial grade thermocouple with big beefy armored cables that won't die first time they get a kink or go over 400º Like other tools, you get what you pay for.. I cook too much to use a $3 cable.

Opening the chimney more and letting the hot air escape more freely will create More Vacuum and the same size hole down below will have more air come thru it.. As you restrict (close the damper top) the hot air exiting you will have less vacuum. People tend to overthink the importance of the lower settings.. It's all about the vacuum/pressure created.. There can be many different combinations of top and bottom settings for the same temp.. Always remember that temperature is airflow... This is a copy of a post I made recently.. Charcoal always burns at the maximum volume for the allowed airflow.. Combustion requires three things, fuel.. ignition and oxygen/air.. The first two are covered so always remember that temperature is simply airflow. Airflow in a Komodo Kamado is very different than other charcoal grills because there is no gap between the firebox and body or holes in the firebox that permit air to bypass the charcoal. This means that when exhaust exits your chimney the vacuum that is created pulls/sucks air in through the front draft door and forces it all through your charcoal. In all other charcoal grills most of the air goes around the charcoal because air always take the path of least resistance. My favorite analogy to help understand the lower draft door settings is a garden hose.. the diameter (to some extent) determines how the volume which can go through the hose but the pressure not the diameter of the hose is the most important factor. The pressure in your grill is the vacuum. The more freely the hot air exits the grill, the more vacuum is created, the more baffled and restricted the exhaust, the less vacuum. Because all air is forced through your charcoal, anytime you have a stable temperature, simply take a mental or physical note of your top and bottom settings.. they will always create the same temperature. The large volume of dense refractory hot face has high thermal mass.. this creates uniform convective heat and stability. The large volume of insulation prevents heat loss, this also means you can’t reduce temps quickly once heat soaked. Better to preheat the grill slowly than to overshoot your target temp. For 235ºf you want to light about a tennis ball volume of charcoal, open the damper top until it spins free, turn back until the top touches the gasket then move the damper top’s ear about 2” only. The lower draft door should be open about a pencil volume at most. Once you have a stable temp you can adjust the lower draft to fine tune. in other grills the settings change if the density of your charcoal in the basket changes.. more smalls etc because more air will bypass the charcoal.. in your KK anytime you have a stable temp, make a physical or mental note of the top and bottom settings as they will always be the same.. after a handful of cooks on your KK you will find cooking on it very intuitive.

Heylo Roger, welcome to the forum. We're happy to have all types of Kamado grills cook and share with us and I think you will find less pro KK posting here than on the other forums where KK owners evangelize a bit. In any hobby having better tools increases the pleasure factor.. The 23" Ultimate comes loaded with three 3/8” 304 stainless steel grates that can be used in four cooking positions, SS charcoal basket, SS drip pan, heat deflector, rotisserie shaft system (roti ready), Auto Temp control fan faceplate (BBQ Guru/Rocks Stokker), side accessory plates, grate hanger. Spare kit with extra knobs, gaskets, matching tiles, springs, plugs etc.. Optional extras: 23” Ultimate ~ Rod & Tube Side Table 180 ea 23” Ultimate ~ Stainless insert for Side Table 85 23” Ultimate ~ Basket Splitter 128 23” Ultimate ~ Baking Stone 80 17” Round ~ Baking Stone 68 23” Ultimate ~ Extra Charcoal basket 144 23” Ultimate ~ Rib Rack 78 23” Ultimate ~ Drip pan Single 125 23” Ultimate ~ Drip pan Double 190 23” Ultimate ~ Gas Burner Assembly 178 23” Ultimate ~ 8” Rotisserie Cradle w/ 6” reducer 160 23” Ultimate ~ Sunbrella cover 170 UPS for cover US 22 Stainless and teak grate grabbers 40 Stainless grill grabbers 24 20 lbs box CoCo Charcoal 20 lbs box Coffee lump Charcoal

That's easy.. I'll get the team on it.

You know I'll vote for the 34" to lip..

You nailed it.. nothing wrong with those ribs..

Thank you for posting this on the KamadoGuru forum.. I'm confidant it will help folks who want to improve their game and one step in doing this is improving the quality of their tools..

First show will be father's day in June How's this for a PLUG from Mr Raichlen?

Not sure what causes this color on the meat but it's always great tasting Q...

Keeping it simple.. Pork Loin, Chicken and two each of three different sausages,, More apple than coffee chunks.. Roasted low then cranked up to brown... Love the color on these.. Is that a trifecta Bosco?

Nailed that.. The texture on that steak is awesome.. I'm finding that the texture from Sous Vide can get a bit smooth, slick and odd.. Maybe I need to shorten my SV time.

Love that it settled at 170º.. with some futzing it's possible to stabilize at 110º.. Great smoke ring.. on your KK it's from not opening and cooking at 235º My wife loves then just like that.. Home run! Spraying with juice is great to add a bit of caramelization but you had the sauce already.. Spraying with vinegar is great to add a bit of tang.. but to get you meat more tender) fall off the bone) you don't need to spray, you only need to cook it longer. From the texture of your ribs, my guess is that those ribs were about 185º You probably want them up around 200º or more for falling off the bone. I want mine to pull clean from the bone but leave a bite mark and still have a bit of chew.. Probably a bit over 190º. The falling off the bone is a bit like baby food for me.. My favorite doneness test.. Grab the ribs from the end about 30% in and lift and bounce the meat.. I wait until it's just flexible enough to create small tears on the surface.. for fall off the bone wait until it actually tears/breaks. This is a great way to measure tenderness.. Every time you open the grill you loose that big cloud of humidity.. best do it sparingly.

I've always been a fan of the quick freezer chill of the outside to get more condensation of vapor/smoke in your grill.. I even do this to a chicken where it's soo important to get them to room temps before cooking to prevent the dreaded blood in the broken bones nightmare.. Noticeably more smoke flavor..

Charcoal always burns at the maximum volume for the allowed airflow.. Combustion requires three things, fuel.. ignition and oxygen/air.. The first two are covered so always remember that temperature is simply airflow. Airflow in a Komodo Kamado is very different than other charcoal grills because there is no gap between the firebox and body or holes in the firebox that permit air to bypass the charcoal. This means that when exhaust exits your chimney the vacuum that is created pulls/sucks air in through the front draft door and forces it all through your charcoal. In all other charcoal grills most of the air goes around the charcoal because air always take the path of least resistance. My favorite analogy to help understand the lower draft door settings is a garden hose.. the diameter (to some extent) determines how the volume which can go through the hose but the pressure not the diameter of the hose is the most important factor. The pressure in your grill is the vacuum. The more freely the hot air exits the grill, the more vacuum is created, the more baffled and restricted the exhaust, the less vacuum. Because all air is forced through your charcoal, anytime you have a stable temperature, simply take a mental or physical note of your top and bottom settings.. they will always create the same temperature. The large volume of dense refractory hot face has high thermal mass.. this creates uniform convective heat and stability. The large volume of insulation prevents heat loss, this also means you can't reduce temps quickly once heat soaked. Better to preheat the grill slowly than to overshoot your target temp. For 235ºf you want to light about a tennis ball volume of charcoal, open the damper top until it spins free, turn back until the top touches the gasket then move the damper top's ear about 2" only. The lower draft door should be open about a pencil volume at most. Once you have a stable temp you can adjust the lower draft to fine tune. in other grills the settings change if the density of your charcoal in the basket changes.. more smalls etc because more air will bypass the charcoal.. in your KK anytime you have a stable temp, make a physical or mental note of the top and bottom settings as they will always be the same.. after a handful of cooks on your KK you will find cooking on it very intuitive.