DennisLinkletter

Try putting the pellets, chips or chunks in a bowl and microwave on high for 5 minutes or until when you blow on it you don't feel steam.. Removing the +- 10% moisture helps the wood smolder.. Also use the lowest airflow setting on the pump that keeps it burning, this increases how long it burns significantly. A low setting fills the grill with lots of smoke in just a few minutes and the lower the burn temp in the smoker the cleaner the smoke. I always put my meat in cold this crates more condensation of the smoke vapor on it. I'm guessing you should not need to run it all night to get a good solid flavor profile,

Here are the spare parts https://komodokamado.com/collections/23-ultimate-spare-parts If you need more just leave a message on the chat window and my staff will take care of you.. If you have any questions, please feel free to call me should you have any questions or there is anything I can do for you. I'm online taking calls and chatting daily EST from 1pm to 5-6pm and then you can also try from 10pm to 6am (hit or miss) Dennis • Los Angeles (424) 270-1948 • Whatsapp +62 818 850-860

I suggest wrapping those big wood smoking chunks in foil to channel the gas down into the burning charcoal from little holes in the bottom of the foil pouch.. you will get a much less bitter acrid smoke flavor profile..

Argh they have a photo of a 23" and with text and pricing for the 42" and call it a Komodo not Komodo Kamado... I've written the author

Let's see if I can help you understand the how's and why's.. trust me it's really not all that complicated. First of all other rotisseries I know of have one shaft that goes directly to the motor. Most rotisseries are also over open coals or wood with no lid. The square roti spit sits on supports and goes directly into the motor that has a square socket. This is a ONE socket system. The play in the one socket system is 1/3rd that of the KK's three socket system. I wanted a way to run the roti with the lid latched and completely airtight. Rather then make up a wedge and run it with the lid cracked, I installed a drive shaft that runs thru the body. So on the right there is a socket inside the grill attached to the driveshaft in a sleeve with needle bearings and another socket on the outside of the KK in the middle of the side accessory plate. The motor of course it the third socket. This is a three socket system. The first version was all square sockets. Think of the second hand on a clock very little movement at the center creates much more movement at the outside/tip. Because of the tiny bit of play in each socket X 3, the cradle would come around and at some point would fall forward about an inch. Some roti motors also have some slack in the gears and added to this movement. I felt this was unacceptable and gave it a less than quality feel. My solution that reduced the movement by 2/3s was to change the two sockets in the drive train to hex. The hex socket having more faces for the shaft to make contact seemed to do the trick. The motor of course it still square, so the outside the grill shaft is square on the motor side and hex on the KK side. You may be limited by the 23" Ultimate's cradle being 8" but the 32" Big Bad's 10" cradle should hold any turkey you want to throw at it.

Originally all KK's had square drive sockets and shafts. There are three sockets in the no-airflow KK roti drivetrain. One in the motor, one outside the grill and one inside the grill. Square sockets have a bit of play.. this play X 3 created a situation where the roti cradle would fall forward an inch or two at some point in the rotation. HEX sockets have much less play, so we changed the outside and inside sockets to hex and the corresponding shafts. The motor is still square.. the motor shaft is square at the motor side and hex where it goes into the KK. Can't argue with success, the roti has some movement but it's usually from the motor not play in the drivetrain sockets. We still supply parts and accessories for every KK ever built.

I like the way you think!!

Congrats on your new grill.. Temperature is airflow.. My guess is that you poured the charcoal directly out of the bag. And even worse possibly poured the bottom of the bag into the charcoal basket. These smalls nestle between the larger pieces and cut off airflow. For higher temps always pour the lump into a container shake a few time to let the small crap fall to the bottom. The larger pieces should be used in the middle and the smalls can be used around the very outside against the refractory cement fire box. Please remember this mantra... Temperature is airflow..

Heylo Guy.. First of all there is no ceramic in a KK grill. The hot-face is a high alumina cement, extremely durable. The insulation is vermiculite, a natural flaky mineral (similar to mica) that expands like popcorn when heated. Vermiculite is used in insulation, fire retardants, and in our case cement aggregate. Both of these are designed to be used in blast furnaces at very high temps. Outside of the porous insulation is an acrylic, UV resistant industrial insulation. It's the flexible, waterproof jacket that the tiles are attached to. The ceramic tiles are standard glazed tiles.. The hot-face and insulation does not effect getting to high temps or your ability to stabilize them.. That's simply airflow.. When I hear people say that they can't get hot, I know that they are pouring charcoal from the bag into the grill and all the crap smalls are blocking your airflow which in turn is limiting how much charcoal can burn. If your grill has moisture inside/under the acrylic jacket, the water vapor will/could carry the heat more efficiently to the tile jacket. If not, you have just forgotten, that if you wait long enough the outside heats up if you are at high temps.. you won't blister your hands touching it but you won't touch it long because it's HOT.. I can assure you nothing breaks down and changes the performance of your KK..

Did it pick up much charcoal flavors? Do you think it would have had more flavor/ been better left open?

Argh.. a larger Table Top.. This one is already difficult enough to move around the factory during production! BTW I'm in the process of making teak removable counter fillers.. something like the left side here.. This is only a photoshop-ed mockup. The idea is to fill the square hole in counters.

TelTru is in Rochester, New York and was shut down by the governor. I bought everything on Amazon and a few online grill stores and still ran out. I have 100 on order but will still be few weeks they say. These are the least offensive ones I could easily buy scores of. Of course I’ll send out the proper TelTru when I get them.

For a brisket on a 19" you may need to take a bit off the flat to make it fit. They are 19" left to right and 17" front to rear. Just a tad small for full sized ribs and briskets. But both can be reduced and the balance cooked on the upper grate at the same time.

Neither.. It creates a consistent, uniform slow smolder of wood chips that does not create enough heat to make the gas in the wood turn to smoke/vapor.. the gas is burned off in the smolder, what remains is the secondary vapor. This is the smooth one, the elusive blue smoke.. The air pump creates just enough vacuum to keep it burning but not enough to get hot.

Sounds like Franklin cares more about the color of the brisket for when to wrap.. Not related to the stall. He also does not always wrap.. Talks about it in the first two minutes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sMIlyzRFUjU

The smalls definitely fill in the space between the pieces and kill airflow. Every time someone says their grill is stuck at 300º I know they poured the crap from the bottom of the bag in the grill.. The hot air escaping with the the lid latched and the top damper open creates vacuum and forces air thru the charcoal. It's actually forced airflow also. You really do not need to use the Guru fan at all.

You always want to remember that temperature is airflow. If you want high temps you need high airflow. To get this it's best to use only medium to large or all large pieces of charcoal. We're talking large tangerine or more. This with your lower draft door open and the draft door open will get you hotter than you need to go. For Napoleon cracker crust pies, I wholeheartedly suggest using carbon steel / Baking Steels. Click here to better understand how it works

If the inside of the round hole has a stainless sleeve, then it's plug and play ready. Most are. Please feel free to call me should you have any questions or there is anything I can do for you. I'm online taking calls and chatting daily EST from 1pm to 5-6pm and then you can also try from 10pm to 6am (hit or miss) Dennis Linkletter Owner/ Builder Komodo Kamado Bali, Indonesia VoIP toll-free call to Indonesia: • Los Angeles (424) 270-1948 • Atlanta (404) 418-6648 * Sydney (02) 8006 0968 • Whatsapp +62 818 850-860 (please leave a message if no answer)

I suggest heating what ever wood you are using in the microwave.. this pulls lots of moisture out and helps the material smolder. I heat the wood in a bowl, then open the door and blow on the wood to remove the steam, while doing this you can gauge how much more moisture is in the wood. But most smoking wood will have a moisture content of about 10%. I also suggest running the smoker at the lowest airflow you can and keep the material smoldering. Lower burn will produce cleaner smoke, don't worry it's not enough it builds up. And put your meat into the grill as cold as possible, the vapor is transferred to the meat by condensation.

I received so many emails from people wanting to order a 16" before they were discontinued, I changed my mind and put them back on the new website. I will just carry fewer of them then before.

A stick burner Pros: Probably the cleanest smoke flavor profiles in BBQ. Produces vapor without any of the wood's unburned gas vapor. Very clean flavor because they burn wood with a flame which consumes the nasty gas which is bitter and acrid. Great Bark. Cons: Burning wood with a flame requires lots of airflow which can be very drying over a long cook. Needs skills to balance heat and babysitting when the ambient temps change.. not much sleep involved. They are pretty much limited to low and slow cooking.. no grilling, roasting or baking. Wife thinks they look like a choo choo train.. Komodo Kamado Pros: It's all about the airflow.. Copious amounts of insulation simply holding the heat in. Charcoal always burns at the maximum volume for the allowed airflow. If you can burn less fuel to maintain your cooking temperature, you have less airflow, less evaporation, and and of course more retained moisture in your meat, and that's the holy grail of BBQ. And the reduced airflow creates longer/more retention time for the charcoal vapor/smoke.. the longer the vapor is in contact the more condensation takes place creating more Q flavor. Basically set and forget temperature wise. You will get plenty of sleep and complete novices can get great results. They excel in low and slow, roasting and baking. You can also grill on multiple levels and create 2 zone cooking. Wife thinks they look great.. Cons: You can't just toss big chunks of wood into your grill while your meat is in there.. the lack of oxygen will create a thick nasty grey bitter acrid smoke.. This can be resolved using foil pouches, cast iron pots or external smoke generators. Heavy, not available in your local retails stores..

Smoke Generator.. my latest tweak is I microwave the chips or chunks until they steam nd then until most of the steam is gone.. Taking the moisture content down seems to be the ticket to smoldering.. I then turn down the air-pump to as low as I can go and still keep it lit. No need to have it blasting as the heat generated from more airflow can create bio-gas fog which is what we are trying to void.

No the Coffee Charcoal is natural lump.. BTW those are last containers 22 lb boxes.. this container has 44 lb poly bags and 12 lb boxes.

Ahh you gotta love third world living.. I have a full time gardener who lives on the property. My grates are automatically cleaned the day after he smells smoke! It's a dirty job...

I'm on this thanks for the head's up... ****Changing the location of the handles on future DBD pans to their natural balance point would seem to be a more elegant and simpler solution.**** With 7 grills/sizes we do have a problem from time to time with handles from different models being used at times, this is very tough to spot for our QC gals too.. I believe the lower rack is a better place to put the drip pan.. down below will trap heat in the firebox and reduce performance..